Macgyver repair of distributor rotor (pics)

[coolwind57]

The last two times i drove it, I noticed that my 89 4.0 wasn't running as well as it should.  Hardly noticeable but I thought I could hear it cutting out or something.  

 

So, coming home from work the other day, i noticed that the cutting out was now becoming very apparent.  It was quite cold and windy and while in town traffic, I thought I'd better pull over and investigate before getting on the expressway and navigating this huge hill two exits before my off ramp. 

 

I found that i had a coolant leak from one of my heater hoses.  It was dripping on the distributor.  I tightened the clamp, stopped the leak and proceeded to the on-ramp to the expressway thinking that any moisture would probably dry up and I'd make it home ok, just 8-9 miles away.

 

About half way up that huge hill, I had to pull over.  I was losing power and having these HUGE backfires. Backfires like I'd never heard before.  The engine would idle fine, but would go ballistic upon acceleration.  I popped the hood and found a screwdriver to pop the distributor cap.  I was thinking I'd maybe find moisture in there that was causing the issue.  What I found was quite disturbing.

 

The thin metal strip that serves as the contact for the rotor button was completely dislodged from its plastic rotor button assembly and just sitting on top of it.   The area smelled like burnt electrical/plastic.  The arc-shaped piece of the metal strip that rotates and engages each of the 6 spark plug contacts was completely burnt away.  I can't believe it even ran in this condition, let alone idle quite well.

 

Searching my truck, i found a tube of superglue gel and a roll of PTFE pipe tape.  This was my only available option during my frantic search for a quick fix.  Not so optimistic that i'd work, I thought I'd try to get it home as I was only about 4-miles from home.  I glued and taped that rotor contact back on and damn if it didn't work like a charm.  I could not believe I was back on the highway and running full speed.  Darn truck pretty much ran like normal.  I was expecting any time that the PTFE and glue would fail, but I made it home with zero issues.

 

Here's a pic of my repair.  Notice that an area of plastic of the rotor is burnt away and missing.  The cap seemed ok inside, although coated with a burnt film.  I've replace both and all appears to be ok now.  

 

I assume that coolant leak caused this, although I really didn't see any evidence of coolant in my distributor.  Anyone ever had anything like this happen?

 

 

[jpnjake]

Oh my lol, the exact reason I carry 2 rotors and a cap with me everywhere lol. Glad you got it home all safe. Nice repair 

[coolwind57]

2 hours ago, jpnjake said:

Oh my lol, the exact reason I carry 2 rotors and a cap with me everywhere lol. Glad you got it home all safe. Nice repair 

Yea man I was laughing all the way home in total disbelief that it was actually working.  ha

 

 

[pizzaman09]

I'm impressed.  The Teflon tape is a good choice as PTFE has a dielectric strength of about double that of most plastics.  

Glad you made it home.

[coolwind57]

 

Well, I found that my alternator is toast too.  Popped in a new battery and dropped my old alternator.  Crazy thing is this:  I found an AC Delco 100 Ampere alternator for $78 NEW on Amazon.  The local parts stores were nearly double that price.   Just have to wait a couple days to get it in, but I couldn't justify paying 50-60 bucks more than I had to...and they're typically all rebuilds.

 

Anyhow, as I dropped my old alternator, I pulled the "exciter" plug near the bottom and found that bare wire had been up against the frame.  Wow.  That may had caused some issues.  

 

If you're having electrical issues boys, then it may be worth a look up under the nose of your truck for a quick wire inspection.  

[zomeizter]

10 hours ago, coolwind57 said:

 

Well, I found that my alternator is toast too.  Popped in a new battery and dropped my old alternator.  Crazy thing is this:  I found an AC Delco 100 Ampere alternator for $78 NEW on Amazon.  The local parts stores were nearly double that price.   Just have to wait a couple days to get it in, but I couldn't justify paying 50-60 bucks more than I had to...and they're typically all rebuilds.

 

Anyhow, as I dropped my old alternator, I pulled the "exciter" plug near the bottom and found that bare wire had been up against the frame.  Wow.  That may had caused some issues.  

 

If you're having electrical issues boys, then it may be worth a look up under the nose of your truck for a quick wire inspection.  

I recently upgraded the alternator on my XJ with a 160 amp one from ebay for 117 bucks brand new, local parts store wanted 180+ for a reman one putting out 100 amps. Hard to resist them online deals man...