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Brake lines


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I've done a whole-sale replacement of lines twice now.  the first time it was with the pre-flared straight lengths from the autoparts stores, the second time it was with a roll of DIY tube and a flaring tool.  both methods were fairly easy to do. :L:  you don't have to perfectly follow the factory path, just make sure that nothing will snag on them and the lines are secured.  I highly recommend the nickle/copper line that lasts waaaay longer than regular steel. :D  oh, and if you flare them yourself, a quality flaring tool is key.  the cheap ones suck. 

 

now's the time to contemplate eliminating the rear prop valve and upgrading to the WJ dual booster.

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6 hours ago, Aussiemj said:

All my brake lines are rusted and the nut have seen better days.

has any one used classic brake lines as they list Mj on there site.

paul

 

Do you mean the pre-made stainless brake lines from Classic Tubing? I bought them for the rear axle. The first set was so far out of whack that there was no possible way they could have been made to work. I sent them back and they made a new set. The second set was still pretty bad, but the lengths were close enough that it was possible to use them (with a lot of re-bending).

 

I won't use them again. For a lot less money you can get a 25-foot length of Cunifer (copper-nickel alloy) brake line from Amazon, as well as lengths of coil spring gravel shield, and make up your own. The Cunifer is much easier to shape and to flare than plain steel brake line, and as resistant to corrosion as stainless steel.

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