clutch AX-5 Clutch Problems

[92Voiture]

Hello. I have an 87 SporTruck 4x2 with the gas 2.5L inline 4 and the AX-5 transmission. My clutch fluid was leaking out of the transmission so I pulled the transmission out and replaced the internal clutch slave cylinder. Then I started driving it again and the clutch engagement point was very low, but if I pumped it up, it would move up, so I replaced the clutch master cylinder too. I’ve got everything really nice and tightened down. I bled it once, and then later a second time.

Now my clutch engagement point is moving around wildly and I am very concerned. The fluid level in the little plastic reservoir is exactly the same every time I check it, right at the MAX line. Sometimes it is a long and gradual engagement, and sometimes it is a very short and abrupt engagement. Sometimes it is right near the bottom and sometimes it is closer to the top.

I looked around and nothing appears to be leaking, but it’s been wet out and it’s hard to tell. The fluid level hasn’t gone down so I guess it’s not that.

[mjeff87]

You need to keep bleeding that dreaded internal slave/throwout, sounds like you've still got air in the system somewhere.

 

I just used a Motive power bleeder for the first time ever on my other vehicle a few weeks ago (FWD car that also has a similar internal slave setup).  I've got to say, it's a pretty dang neat tool, and is a great way to bleed these things.  My buddy ponied up and bought one and we gave it a test run on my vehicle.  For the price, I'd definitely recommend anyone pick one up.  I'd buy one of my own, but I can borrow his anytime I need it now, lol.

 

 

 

[92Voiture]

On 3/5/2021 at 2:25 PM, mjeff87 said:

You need to keep bleeding that dreaded internal slave/throwout, sounds like you've still got air in the system somewhere.

 

I just used a Motive power bleeder for the first time ever on my other vehicle a few weeks ago (FWD car that also has a similar internal slave setup).  I've got to say, it's a pretty dang neat tool, and is a great way to bleed these things.  My buddy ponied up and bought one and we gave it a test run on my vehicle.  For the price, I'd definitely recommend anyone pick one up.  I'd buy one of my own, but I can borrow his anytime I need it now, lol.

 

 

 

Ah yeah my father has something similar (he's on his third Comanche), and I tried bleeding it a few times with this. I bought the metal slave cylinder not the plastic one and it didn't have the integrated lines, it just uses two O-rings to seal it to the factory lines, and they didn't fit very well. My concern is that it may be leaking new air in through those fittings. Have you heard of this happening?

[eaglescout526]

What brand are you using? I have the same issue. Which is why I’m trying to convert to the early style external. 

[92Voiture]

On 3/9/2021 at 12:25 PM, eaglescout526 said:

What brand are you using? I have the same issue. Which is why I’m trying to convert to the early style external. 

LUK master cylinder, CENTRIC slave cylinder.

[eaglescout526]

I’ve never used centric. Had the luk slave cylinders  for a while and they were great! The crown units I have used were cheap and are cheap but I didn’t have time to wait for the parts to show up. 

[MulzetN]

Following along this thread. I have an 1988 Comanche base model, 2wd with the ax5.

 

I lost all clutch engagement and had to power shift home. Replaced the MC with a dorman MC. Bled the heck out of it and it did nothing. I then replaced the slave cylinder and clutch (might as well do both while in there) with a LUK brand set. Still couldn't bleed it out. Replaced the MC with a second new one and finally got it to bleed and work. Fast forward 1 week and I lost clutch again but only intermittently this time. If I pump 1 billion times I can get clutch back. I also noticed the classic MC leak on the floor by the fuses and some metal shavings (at least a metallic look) in the MC reservoir. 

 

My plan is to see if I can replace the line that runs from the MC to the slave with a nicer braided style line (please let me know if you have any parts suggestions) and do a third new MC (thinking the Willwood MC 260-15098 because I read about someone doing it in a Cherokee and it made their clutch stiffer to engage or possibly LUK because they seem to be the fan choice). 

 

My fear is that the metallic look in the MC reservoir means there is damage to the slave and clutch I JUST put in. Any insight on this as well?

Edited November 18, 2021 by MulzetN
ax5 not 15

[92Voiture]

On 3/15/2021 at 11:19 PM, MulzetN said:

Following along this thread. I have an 1988 Comanche base model, 2wd with the ax15 as well.

 

I lost all clutch engagement and had to power shift home. Replaced the MC with a dorman MC. Bled the heck out of it and it did nothing. I then replaced the slave cylinder and clutch (might as well do both while in there) with a LUK brand set. Still couldn't bleed it out. Replaced the MC with a second new one and finally got it to bleed and work. Fast forward 1 week and I lost clutch again but only intermittently this time. If I pump 1 billion times I can get clutch back. I also noticed the classic MC leak on the floor by the fuses and some metal shavings (at least a metallic look) in the MC reservoir. 

 

My plan is to see if I can replace the line that runs from the MC to the slave with a nicer braided style line (please let me know if you have any parts suggestions) and do a third new MC (thinking the Willwood MC 260-15098 because I read about someone doing it in a Cherokee and it made their clutch stiffer to engage or possibly LUK because they seem to be the fan choice). 

 

My fear is that the metallic look in the MC reservoir means there is damage to the slave and clutch I JUST put in. Any insight on this as well?

This sounds very similar to my problem. I’m not an expert, this is my first jeep, so I can’t really give you insights about which parts are good or which have problems, but I’d like to hear if a sturdier braided line would do anything against it. Keep us posted.

[mjeff87]

Advance Adapters.  Its labeled as a TJ line, comes in 2 sizes.  Get the longer one (60" IIRC).  Done and done.

[MulzetN]

Not sure about the braided lines just yet. I tightened the line where it attaches onto the master cylinder and it seems to have solved my problem. Essentially I took it to the point where I thought I was going to strip it and then stopped. I will update if anything changes. I will update if anything changes.