War_Pony89 Posted November 10, 2020 Share Posted November 10, 2020 My 89 has mainly stock parts except for the hub assembly I've replaced a few times and as well as the control arm bushings and most recently shock bushing . I know things are loose and I have a lot of clunking when it gets rough. Just replaced a shock bushing due to wobbling at highway speed. That fixed it, but I still hear sounds on bumps. What would be list of parts to replace and look at? I'm thinking the tie rod ends and other the shock bushing. I noticed the sway bar bushings had play as well. Also, I seem to recall that the stock drag link and tie rod may be stretched thin when lifted? Inside of tires wears first and have never been able to get a shop to get toeing right. is an aftermarket option the better if lifted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 10, 2020 Share Posted November 10, 2020 how much lift? you should add some specs to your signature. have someone saw the wheel back and forth while you poke your head underneath. then have them grab the top of the cab and rock the truck as much as they can. have you inspected your ball joints? you can set the toe in your driveway. but if there's a sloppy part that won't let the measurement stick, then it's kinda a moot point. gotta find the bad parts asap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
War_Pony89 Posted November 10, 2020 Author Share Posted November 10, 2020 2 hours ago, Pete M said: how much lift? you should add some specs to your signature. I think its 3 or 3.5", been on there bout 20 years now. I now one of my helix joints has a crack in it. change all the control arm bushing out around 4 years ago. Oh yes, ball joints are probably stock as well, so ball joints and ends? Maybe longer drag link and tie rod? Roger that, will look for signature enhancement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 10, 2020 Share Posted November 10, 2020 3.5" on a non-modified stock track bar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
War_Pony89 Posted November 10, 2020 Author Share Posted November 10, 2020 6 minutes ago, Pete M said: 3.5" on a non-modified stock track bar? Roger that, the guy I recall the alignment shop telling me it was all the way out to end of the threads on adjustment. may have been 3" lift...you know fish stories and all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 10, 2020 Share Posted November 10, 2020 the factory track bar isn't adjustable at all, so if it has threads, it'll be aftermarket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
War_Pony89 Posted November 11, 2020 Author Share Posted November 11, 2020 May have messed the descriptions up. steering drag link? from the pit-man to the hub. and the drag link have a collar and threads.These are the one's I am referring to. I see Currie and JKS have HD one's, just not sure I need the to spend the extra $ ? Maybe the one's I have are okay and just need new ends? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 11, 2020 Share Posted November 11, 2020 is your track bar stock or aftermarket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted November 11, 2020 Share Posted November 11, 2020 My MJ is lifted about 3.5 inches, and it had an aftermarket adjustable track bar that had the ball/socket joint on the chassis end like the OEM type. It worked fine, when adjusted properly. But it used the standard OEM track bar bracket, and the coil spring on the driver's side would occasionally rub on the bracket, and make any annoying "sproing-ing" noise. I replaced that track bar with a Rough Country track bar and bracket that uses rubber bushings on both ends. The important part is that the track bar bracket is not designed like the OEM one, and adds clearance near the spring, thus eliminating the weird "sproing" noise when the spring flexes. As far as your tires wearing on the inside.....do you have wheel spacers attached to the hub flanges to increase track width? That can cause the axle housing to flex, and cause your wheel camber to become negative, and increase tire wear on the inside of the footprint of the tire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokinn Posted November 11, 2020 Share Posted November 11, 2020 For clunking on rough roads I would definitely check the other shock bushings. Replacing ball joints corrected my camber and subsequent tire wear issues and that was after replacing everything else on the front end. If they are really bad they can clunk. Check to make sure your tie rod isn't bent. The stock hollow one bent on mine just driving on rough roads. The ZJ V8 track bar can replace it and is solid metal and larger diameter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
War_Pony89 Posted November 13, 2020 Author Share Posted November 13, 2020 I am using a Skyjacker track bar with helix joints, no spacers, but do run a 1/4" positive offset on the rims. I appreciate all the input and have a good idea now what to address. Driving home last night with radio off and windows up, the other shock bushing, I have not replaced ,is first on the list. On 11/11/2020 at 6:33 PM, rokinn said: The ZJ V8 track bar can replace it and is solid metal and larger diameter. Thank rokim, I forgot about this option. should be more cost effective than a Currie or JKS unit which I probably don't need with my lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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