Jump to content

o2 sensor bull$#!7


Recommended Posts

alright, HELP ME PLEASE!

 

i tried to replace my o2 sensor today, tested it, got infinite ohms, tested new one same way, got 5 so ok, definitely bad... have to pass sniff-test by tuesday or i get late fee's

 

so i went out got the right wrench on the sensor and it quickly rounded instead of loosening, so i wd-40d it and hit it with the pipe wrench which loosened it, and it SEEMED to be coming out, it got looser-and-looser til the point where i can hand spin the whole thing. and yet somehow it won't come out. I'm lookin at the new sensor and i have no idea how the thing can be broken off in there like it is, it only has like 5 threads so its not just really far in there, idk wtf happened. but if anyone has an idea of how to put t he new one in another spot or how to get this damned thing out please let me know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

come-on guys... anything!

 

all i can find on naxja is that it should be a 5-minute job with a crescent wrench...

 

riiight, just like you're supposed to be able to change 19 y.o. axleshaft u-joints with a hammer and two sockets, right? :roll:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well... the only thing I can figure (which isn't much fun... so stop reading right now if your looking for a pleasant answer) is that somehow the bung (welded in metal thread thingy) snapped off and is spinning in exhaust tube. The only option then is to cut or drill it out and weld in a new bung.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

come-on guys... anything!

 

all i can find on naxja is that it should be a 5-minute job with a crescent wrench...

riiight, just like you're supposed to be able to change 19 y.o. axleshaft u-joints with a hammer and two sockets, right? :roll:

 

I had a similar problem way back when. You should be able to see if the bung is broken from the header and spinning, or the sensor is simply stripped and spinning. If the sensor is stripped, it has to come out, even if you have to drill it out (which I had to do). Then go to your local AutismZone, pick up a spark plug thread chasing tool (the O2 sensor has the same threads) and cut new threads in the bung with the tool. And be SURE to use a non-invasive anti-seize compound on the new O2 sensor so it doesn't happen the next time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

come-on guys... anything!

 

all i can find on naxja is that it should be a 5-minute job with a crescent wrench...

riiight, just like you're supposed to be able to change 19 y.o. axleshaft u-joints with a hammer and two sockets, right? :roll:

 

I had a similar problem way back when. You should be able to see if the bung is broken from the header and spinning, or the sensor is simply stripped and spinning. If the sensor is stripped, it has to come out, even if you have to drill it out (which I had to do). Then go to your local AutismZone, pick up a spark plug thread chasing tool (the O2 sensor has the same threads) and cut new threads in the bung with the tool. And be SURE to use a non-invasive anti-seize compound on the new O2 sensor so it doesn't happen the next time.

 

alright, how did you get the drill in there to get the darned thing out? its up under everything and from the bottom itsn ot much easier to get at.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

come-on guys... anything!

 

all i can find on naxja is that it should be a 5-minute job with a crescent wrench...

 

riiight, just like you're supposed to be able to change 19 y.o. axleshaft u-joints with a hammer and two sockets, right? :roll:

 

Give me a vise, a hammer and a small punch. Then 19 year old u-joints are about a a ten minute job per joint max. :brows:

 

As for your O2 sensor the bung is probably junk and a new one will need to be welded in. I re-tapped mine, but it would come loose over time. I bought a Borla header and downpipe so the problem was solved.

 

I was able to remove my stripped senser by welding a large nut onto it and prying outward on it under the nut while loosening the sensor by turning the large nut. I used a 24mm wrench to pry under the nut and the nut used a 1 1/4" wrench if I remember right. It worked very well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

come-on guys... anything!

 

all i can find on naxja is that it should be a 5-minute job with a crescent wrench...

 

riiight, just like you're supposed to be able to change 19 y.o. axleshaft u-joints with a hammer and two sockets, right? :roll:

 

Give me a vise, a hammer and a small punch. Then 19 year old u-joints are about a a ten minute job per joint max. :brows:

 

As for your O2 sensor the bung is probably junk and a new one will need to be welded in. I re-tapped mine, but it would come loose over time. I bought a Borla header and downpipe so the problem was solved.

 

I was able to remove my stripped senser by welding a large nut onto it and prying outward on it under the nut while loosening the sensor by turning the large nut. I used a 24mm wrench to pry under the nut and the nut used a 1 1/4" wrench if I remember right. It worked very well.

 

I used a 90* angle drill with short cut down bits; just enough room to get in there and make the hole big enough to re-tap. It lasted a long time until I did similar to what what TNT did and installed a new Mike Leach headers and down pipe when I did my stroker install. But I was lucky; most likely the O2 bung is junk for you, and it might be a good time to install new headers or a new exhaust manifold. PITA, I know........ :mad:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

alright, HELP ME PLEASE!

 

i tried to replace my o2 sensor today, tested it, got infinite ohms, tested new one same way, got 5 so ok, definitely bad... have to pass sniff-test by tuesday or i get late fee's

 

so i went out got the right wrench on the sensor and it quickly rounded instead of loosening, so i wd-40d it and hit it with the pipe wrench which loosened it, and it SEEMED to be coming out, it got looser-and-looser til the point where i can hand spin the whole thing. and yet somehow it won't come out. I'm lookin at the new sensor and i have no idea how the thing can be broken off in there like it is, it only has like 5 threads so its not just really far in there, idk wtf happened. but if anyone has an idea of how to put t he new one in another spot or how to get this damned thing out please let me know.

 

Makin' any progress fighting this battle??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah man, i made my own one of these from 3" exhaust pipe...

 

drilled a hole large enough for the end of the sensor, ground a nut down to where it was cupped to fit the pipe, welded it on, drilled hole in exhaust, cut the 3" and folded two flaps in it and bolted it together...

 

she leaks right now from my patch a little bit but i'll get it fixed... hind-sight's 20-20 and i kinda fubared it a bit, so i'll fix it with some JB or somethin to stop the leak

Link to comment
Share on other sites

riiight, just like you're supposed to be able to change 19 y.o. axleshaft u-joints with a hammer and two sockets, right? :roll:

 

Using the Harbor Freight kit, takes about 10 minutes if you stop and clean up the yokes really well.........

Link to comment
Share on other sites

riiight, just like you're supposed to be able to change 19 y.o. axleshaft u-joints with a hammer and two sockets, right? :roll:

 

Using the Harbor Freight kit, takes about 10 minutes if you stop and clean up the yokes really well.........

 

that's not a hammer and two sockets now is it ;)

 

ball-joint press or something similar, and a BFH and theyre not TO terrible bad, a vice helps though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...