Renix engine top end cleaning

[TheBearken]

Hey guys, 

 

I've finally gotten around to cracking open my engine and was wondering what things I should tend to while I've got the top end off.

 

My goal was to get the block cleaned off, replace the head gasket, replace the injectors, and clean/refurb all the misc. brackets and components I interact with on the way.

 

Here are some of my big questions as I've never gone this deep into an engine bay before, but want to keep best practices in mind.

 

-Is it ideal to completely disassemble the cylinder head and remove 100% of the build up and grime, or leave it together and spot remove the sludgy bits? I have this constant feeling that if I take apart spec-sensitive stuff like the rockers and valves, I won't be able to get them back together "properly" the same way again. 

 

-What's the best tool/solvent to use to clean inside the block channels? it's a tight fit

 

-I'm getting a lot of oil in my air filter, is there something I can do in the valve cover to help mitigate that without rigging up a catch-can?

 

-I haven't touched the distributor because getting my timing out of whack terrifies me, am I being dumb?

 

-Best practice for cleaning the mating surfaces? Obviously scratches aren't good, but I can't seem to make any progress with plastic scrapers

 

-Similarly, the calcium-like buildup on the valves and in the chamber doesn't want to go anywhere with a delicate touch...

 

Appreciate any suggestions!

 

 

[eaglescout526]

I recommend getting the head rebuilt. That way those guys can do a thorough inspection of the head as they tear it down for cleaning and rebuild.

 

Scotchbrite pads have worked for me when cleaning the mating surface. 

[87MJTIM]

Replace lifters, push rods, and rockers, while you're in there.  

 

My 2¢.

[omega_rugal]

9 hours ago, TheBearken said:

is there something I can do in the valve cover to help mitigate that without rigging up a catch-can?

 

try cruiser´s tips, cut the flutes in half and drill a hole in the inner side, it will suck less oil vapours

[omega_rugal]

25. Valve cover mod
 
Most early and even later Renix 4.0s could be bothered by excessive oil in the air cleaner box. A fix from my old days as Service Manager at a Jeep dealership follows. Information was provided to me from a buddy at JeepTech during those days. I don’t believe it ever came out in a Technical Service Bulletin.
 
Remove the valve cover and turn it over. Next, remove the fluted tubes that are now facing you by removing three screws on each. Chop 1 inch off each of them. Then, about a half inch up from the area where you just sawed them off, drill a half inch hole in the tubes so the holes will face the rear of the valve cover. Clean and de-burr/sand all rough edges nicely, clean with solvent, and reinstall. Don’t be concerned about the chintzy gaskets that will probably crumble into oblivion when you remove the fluted tubes. They can go back together without gaskets.
 

 

 

 

 

 

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[TheBearken]

22 hours ago, eaglescout526 said:

I recommend getting the head rebuilt. That way those guys can do a thorough inspection of the head as they tear it down for cleaning and rebuild.

 

Scotchbrite pads have worked for me when cleaning the mating surface. 

 

I think a rebuilt head will come in the future if my luck holds out, I'd like to do an HO conversion. 

 

That scotchbrite suggestion was killer, made a world of difference! I've definitely underestimated those little guys

[TheBearken]

12 hours ago, omega_rugal said:

 

try cruiser´s tips, cut the flutes in half and drill a hole in the inner side, it will suck less oil vapours

 

 

Awesome find, It's been a while since I've looked through his spellbook, he really does have something for every occasion!

[eaglescout526]

52 minutes ago, TheBearken said:

That scotchbrite suggestion was killer, made a world of difference! I've definitely underestimated those little guys

 

Yeah those pads work pretty damn good. Combine them with isopropyl on the pistons and it’ll get the carbon build up off. 

[TheBearken]

So I did end up going through the rocker assemblies and cleaning everything off, checking for any potential issues. A few bits of wear but nothing that can't wait for a full rebuild in the future.

I sweated a bit getting the head back on and then playing 2nd guess on if I left towels in the oil channels...

 

I'm starting to bolt everything back on and clean up as I go. I hit some of the accessories with some fresh paint for that extra sheen.

 

I'm having a terrible time on the aluminum for the AC/idler bracket and power steering bracket. For some reason the Alternator bracket and intake manifold have shined up perfectly, but I can't get the dark brown/yellowish/rough areas off these ones. 

 

When I get everything back on, what's the best practice on double checking before attempting to turn it over? I can hand crank it and everything seems to be moving as intended, but I'm still going to be nervous as hell.