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Weber Carburetor 38 Dges/Dgas


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Ok so I finally hooked up the electric choke hoping I would see it move once it was connected to the battery but nothing happened, I then proceeded to play around with the screw pin that’s behind it and that seemed to have helped a lot  

 

 

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I loosened the screw and the rpms dropped to around 800 (I’m going off of sound since my tachometer doesn’t work) 

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Basically what I learned was the choke has a metal coil in it and the power allows the metal coil to heat up and loosen the flaps so that they can move with less resistance 

 

 

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So by turning the screw out I got the rpms lower which is great because it will make it easier to see the timing with the light but I’m still not sure about how to make sure that it’s set correctly ?

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Timing should be set with the engine at warm idle speed -- which for that engine I think is around 700 RPM. If you set the timing when it's "idling" at 2000 RPM, the timing will probably be way out of spec..

 

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yes Eagle i agree thats why i was playing around with the carb to see if i could get it to idle lower 

ok so now i looked up as much info as i could about the carb and here is what i know so far 

 

this is the vacuum control for the distributer 

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this is the fuel bowl vent (i connected it to the charcoal canister)

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this is the rear idle mixer screw there one in the front too

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this I'm not to sure what its for ???

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this is where the gas comes in at 

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does anyone use a Pressure Regulator with there carb ?

I do have a pressure regulator set up, plenty don’t bother. If your electric pump is in spec it’s not a big deal.
I ran for years without a regulator only added one when I changed out the old Weber for a new one because of erratic idle (probably a clogged jet). Could have rebuilt it instead but didn’t have the time. When I swapped it out I added the regulator to be sure the fuel pressure was right on the money.






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I want to start off by saying I am for sure not a carberator guru.  I have spent my shjare of hours leaned over a fender scratching my head just like you are. 

 

It sounds to me like you need a vacuum guage, a tachometer and a fuel pressure guage, and a manual or at bare minimum a parts breakdown for that carb. before you will get much farther with success.  It also sounds like you would benifit from some reasearch on how to properly set a carb.  I am not trying to tell you how, I just know that continually moving screws when you don't fully understand what they do will not help.

 

To the best of my ability and guesswork:

 

The screw behind the choke is an idle adjustment.  It will help you to adjust the idle.

 

To get the idle adjusted properly you first need to adjust the air fuel mixture.  Its been a long time but this is best done with a vacuum guage IIRC.

 

The 2 mixture screws are probably Low speed mixture and High speed mixture.  I can't tell you which one is which, but a manual will.

 

The other port is probably a full time vacuum for a break booster or somthing similar.

 

I hope all this helps.  And I am sure someone on here with more carb experience than me can help some more.

 

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Yeah I checked my spark plugs but I’m not sure what the proper gaping should be 

my plugs are dry but all look like they have been powered coated black 

 

and yes I do need to get a tach and figure out how to hook it up 

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14 hours ago, AMC86Kid said:

Oh the temperature matters too on the plugs , I did not know that I’m running around 170 right now 

 

Coolant temperature doesn't make much difference to the spark plugs. What's important is running plugs that ere the correct heat range for the engine.

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Going purely off memory its 0.035?

 

Don't worry about gap right now. If you are trying to read the plugs for rich versus lean the color is all that matters. Look at the porcelain part right below the electrode. I was always told this should be a "camel tan" color and as uniform as possible. Anything else will tell you how to change your carb adjustments.

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  • 1 year later...

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