Brake lines question and fuel line availability

[BRC 88MJ]

I'm in the middle of rebuilding my MJ and have a couple of questions:

 

1) What diameter (OD or ID, please specify) are the brake lines? I'm looking for the chassis line going to the rear of the truck, the rear axle lines, and the front lines. Just as a reference, I'm looking to buy a roll of bulk tubing and re-running lines similar to an XJ to eliminate the load sensing valve at the rear.

 

2) Does anyone know where I can get replacement fuel lines (other than a junk yard)? I have swapped an HO motor from an XJ into my non-HO MJ and the fuel lines don't match up.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks.

 

BC

[Wildman]

All of the hard lines are 3/16" OD.

 

Advance sells a 25 foot roll for around $26. (steel)

 

And you'll need 3/16" X 3/8" hollow nuts (shorts) for the fittings. Keep the odd fitting at the front port valve, very hard to find.

 

And I'm thing that you know you'll have to double flair the tubbing :yes:

 

The fuel lines.........well, I did a search on Advance for fuel lines, '92-96 XJ, and came up with some "Dorman" fittings that you might be able to make work.

 

The other problem you'll have is the XJ (the 4.0 HO) gas tank is in the rear, and the MJ is a mid-mount tank, yes, the lines can be cut and fitted, at the filter.

 

I'll be stripping down a '96 XJ, but not for a few weeks, other work now. and of corse, your last or first option is........the junk yard ;)

 

Another option is here - http://www.classictube.com/

 

It's a place near me, that make alot of custom and stock SS lines.

[BRC 88MJ]

Wildman,

 

Thanks for the reply. I did find out that the tubing that runs on the rear axle for the rear brakes is 3/16" and figured that the front lines would also be the 3/16". Even the single rear-feed chassis line on an XJ would be 3/16" though?

 

I tried to flare a scrap piece of fuel line tubing and couldn't even come close. Does anyone know if it's stainless? Also, what is the OD for that stuff?

 

I hate nickle and dime stuff....

[Pete M]

I've re-tubed 2 MJs so far and they are all 3/16". The MJ only uses one of those lines running to the back at any one time. The double flare is tricky, but keep practicing. Also, it's more difficult with the cheapo flaring tools.

[jtdesigns]

Here is a little write-up I found, it may help you out..... http://www.fordification.com/my67-p34.htm

[jeepthing07]

I learned that heating up the end of the tube before you flare it with a propane torch then letting it cool off helps ALOT!

[Wildman]

 

I tried to flare a scrap piece of fuel line tubing and couldn't even come close. Does anyone know if it's stainless? Also, what is the OD for that stuff?

 

I hate nickle and dime stuff....

 

No, steel brake line, The steel is annealed (harden) and yea, it's alot of fun, But, once you get the hang of double flaring, no problem :D

 

Pete's right, a cheep (HF) tool is no good, I've got a $49 set, and done 8-9 diffrent trucks with it over the past 4+ years. That's one tool you need a good one, and it will last.

 

Also, what is the OD for that stuff????? You mean for a XJ, it's the same, 3/16" OD.

 

jtdesigns - Nice little write up there on double flairing :yes:

 

I never thought of the drop of oil, I like that idea.

 

jeepthing07 - Yes, I would think that the propane torch would cut some of the annealing out of the steel line, and make it easyer to flair, I'll need to try that next time :D

[BRC 88MJ]

Guys,

 

Thanks for the info and suggestions. I 'm not sure about the OD of the fuel line. I was going to grab my calipers but I was in the garage and they were in the house.....and I was feeling lazy.

 

BTW, annealing actually softens the metal. Typical heat treatments (at lease for bolts) will overharden the base material and then anneal back to the desired hardness. I think the anneal is easier to control and hit the target hardness than just a straight hardening.

 

Wow, I have to stop learning at work.....