Dave Littleton Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 My Distribution Block is so corroded I can not get the valve inside to come out. it will not allow any fluid to the rear brakes other than the height portioning valve and then very little. I cannot post in the classified section for some reason I guess" not enough posts" So does anyone have a working one that I could purchase or do you know if new ones are available? I am in the St Louis MO area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdog Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 Need ten posts for classifieds. I would eliminate the rear height valve and install a cherokee prop valve. 1988 swb 4.0 ax15 np 231 red with gray interior. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted July 24, 2019 Share Posted July 24, 2019 2 hours ago, Dave Littleton said: My Distribution Block is so corroded I can not get the valve inside to come out. it will not allow any fluid to the rear brakes other than the height portioning valve and then very little. I cannot post in the classified section for some reason I guess" not enough posts" So does anyone have a working one that I could purchase or do you know if new ones are available? I am in the St Louis MO area. What valve inside do you think is interfering with flow to the rear axle? The MJ distribution block is ONLY a distribution block. It doesn't do any proportioning. If you're getting flow to the rear height-sensing valve -- it's open and functioning. If you're not getting rear braking, maybe the height-sensing valve isn't adjusted properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted July 24, 2019 Share Posted July 24, 2019 Did you crack a front bleeder while you were initially trying to bleed the rear? You need to do that to simulate a front brake failure so the height sensing valve bypass gets bled properly, then you close the front bleeder and bleed everything normally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Littleton Posted July 24, 2019 Author Share Posted July 24, 2019 I understand that, but the ports are filled with white powdery substance so I am sure the veins are clogged and the valve will not come out I know it should slide to trigger the light but I have tried everything to remove the plunger but it is stuck forward. If you have any suggestions on how to remove the plunger I will try but if the ports are full of this substance I am not sure I can clean all the vanes thoroughly. And I think looking at your pictures if that valve slides forward it will restrict the flow to the rear brakes or backwards it will restrict the flow to the front brakes and that is how the light is triggered. I have experienced this also happening in older cars wheel cylinders when they sit for long periods of time since dot 3 fluids and moister do not work well together I have had to beat the pistons out of the cylinder. I think this is a good explanation on brake valves, very interesting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted July 24, 2019 Share Posted July 24, 2019 8 hours ago, Dave Littleton said: And I think looking at your pictures if that valve slides forward it will restrict the flow to the rear brakes or backwards it will restrict the flow to the front brakes and that is how the light is triggered. Look again. The slider activates the light by pushing up on the plunger in the bottom of that plastic insert (the switch) on top of the distribution block. The slider only activates the light -- it does not obstruct either the front or the rear circuit. Here's how it looks with the slider moved as it would be following a failure of the front brake circuit. When it moves back, it also opens the rear brake bypass circuit to provide full braking to the rear, bypassing the height-sensing valve. As you can see, the normal fluid path for the rear brakes is in through the front/upper port, and out through the nose port. There is nothing in the distribution block that can possibly obstruct the flow to the rear brakes. Soak it down with brake cleaner, then see if you can grab the plunger with a pair of needlenose pliers and twist it out. Even if you can't get the plunger out, though, you can use a fine drill bit to ream out the passages for the rear brakes. Turn the drill by hand, using pliers -- you just want to ream out any of the white powdery stuff, you don't want to be drilling the holes any deeper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Littleton Posted July 24, 2019 Author Share Posted July 24, 2019 I have been working on this for days trying to get the plunger out. The plunger is in all the way and has the light energized. I will try and clean the passages but that still leaves me with the light shining at me. I can grab the plunger with needle nose but it will not twist or pull out. A different valve would sure be nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted July 24, 2019 Share Posted July 24, 2019 Try by using air pressure. BEWARE OF FLYING OBJECTS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 What about putting it in the freezer overnight? Or heating it in the oven to maybe 200 or 250 degrees and then trying the pliers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Littleton Posted July 26, 2019 Author Share Posted July 26, 2019 (edited) I soaked the valve in a tray of PB Blaster for two days and after several of attempts it moved and came out the plunger was coated with corrosion and the rear brake viens were also filled with the corrosion. I cleaned the bore with a brass wire brush and I think I got all of the junk out of he veins. the plunger cleaned up also. I am hoping the oil did not hurt the o rings going back on today. Thanks for all the ideas and help. Note: Air would not move it also when I tried 170psi Edited July 26, 2019 by Dave Littleton Foot Note Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 Excellent. Thanks for the update. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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