Pulling Passenger axle shaft, but not inner shaft--CAD

[coolwind57]

Ok, I have an original CAD-enabled 89 4wd. I'm in the process of replacing hub/bearing assemblies and axle shaft u-joints up front. 

 

I got the driver's side axle pulled but I have a quick question on the passenger side of my original CAD 2-piece axle:

 

1.  Do I simply pull the outer passenger side out just as I did the driver's side?  Does it just slip out of the CAD sleeve or something, without me having to access the CAD cover?  And if so, do I simply reinstall the shaft just as I did the driver's side by just slipping it on in there?  I've searched and read articles, but none I've found makes this totally clear. 

 

BTW, I'm considering doing CAD-delete later by pushing the CAD sleeve over, installing the cover upside down and plugging the vac lines--BUT I want to ensure I get my u-joints and hub replacements successfully completed first.

 

 

 

 

[gogmorgo]

Yeah, that's how it goes. Just slide the shaft out, try to keep it centered in the bore to reduce stress on the seals, especially as you put it back in. It's got a bearing and stuff it floats in, but it's not a huge job to get the CAD splines lined up with where they go.

The inner shaft is more work to remove. You'll need a magnetic puller of some kind, and I've seen mentions of c-clips retaining them in the diff, but I didn't encounter that. Just FYI.

[coolwind57]

3 minutes ago, gogmorgo said:

Yeah, that's how it goes. Just slide the shaft out, try to keep it centered in the bore to reduce stress on the seals, especially as you put it back in. It's got a bearing and stuff it floats in, but it's not a huge job to get the CAD splines lined up with where they go.

The inner shaft is more work to remove. You'll need a magnetic puller of some kind, and I've seen mentions of c-clips retaining them in the diff, but I didn't encounter that. Just FYI.

Thanks.  I've got peace in my heart now.  I'll try to finish up on the job tonight when I get home from work.

 

I had heard about that c-clip for the inner shaft being in the diff.  Glad I don't have to mess with this shaft or get inside the CAD cover plate.  Thank you for the info, bro.

 

 

[mjeff87]

Just make sure the CAD isn't engaged when you pull the outer shaft, that way the collar will be in the inner shaft splines.  If not, the coupler could slip off and misalign inside the housing.  Not really a big deal if that happens though, you can just pop the cover off and line everything up on install.  The inboard end of the outer shaft (if that makes sense, lol) has a small pilot bearing (or bushing in some cases) that aligns with a hole in the outboard end of the inner shaft, much like a pilot bearing on a manual trans input shaft on the end of the crankshaft.  If you do it right, everything just slides right into position, although you might have to rotate the outer shaft a tiny bit either way on install so everything lines back up.

 

If you do have to pop the CAD cover, a small amount of diff fluid will most likely leak out.  It's a negligible amount, but be prepared for it if you're working on a surface you care about not getting dirty.  A little catch tray/plate/rag will catch the little amount that comes out.  If you're really fussy about the little that comes out, there's actually a little square-plug bolt in the housing you can unscrew and pour a little gear oil in to refill it, but I wouldn't worry about it. 

[coolwind57]

16 hours ago, mjeff87 said:

Just make sure the CAD isn't engaged when you pull the outer shaft, that way the collar will be in the inner shaft splines.  If not, the coupler could slip off and misalign inside the housing.  Not really a big deal if that happens though, you can just pop the cover off and line everything up on install.  The inboard end of the outer shaft (if that makes sense, lol) has a small pilot bearing (or bushing in some cases) that aligns with a hole in the outboard end of the inner shaft, much like a pilot bearing on a manual trans input shaft on the end of the crankshaft.  If you do it right, everything just slides right into position, although you might have to rotate the outer shaft a tiny bit either way on install so everything lines back up.

 

If you do have to pop the CAD cover, a small amount of diff fluid will most likely leak out.  It's a negligible amount, but be prepared for it if you're working on a surface you care about not getting dirty.  A little catch tray/plate/rag will catch the little amount that comes out.  If you're really fussy about the little that comes out, there's actually a little square-plug bolt in the housing you can unscrew and pour a little gear oil in to refill it, but I wouldn't worry about it. 

 

Sounds good.  Getting ready to hit it now.

 

As far as fluid loss, I had a significant amount come out when I pulled the driver's side axle shaft.  I'l need to top offl the diff anyhow it seems.  I think my truck likely isn't sitting perfectly level, but still I was a bit surprised that so much came out.  I assume my bearing should be ok as I gently pulled it on out just fine (although I did have to bang that hub quite a bit to get it out). 

 

Thanks for the input.

[Jeep Driver]

2 minutes ago, coolwind57 said:

As far as fluid loss, I had a significant amount come out when I pulled the driver's side axle shaft.

That's why you only do one side at a time, lifting that side higher than the other, fluid does enter the tube you are working on.

[coolwind57]

1 hour ago, Jeep Driver said:

That's why you only do one side at a time, lifting that side higher than the other, fluid does enter the tube you are working on.

Good plan for next time. 

 

I may just go ahead and pull the diff pan to get the rest out and do a full flud replacement anyhow.  I doubt this axle has ever been addressed in the 30-years, 104k miles since built.  The hub bearings were Timkin Made in USA and were extrememly seazed in there.  My MOOG replacements are made in Korea.  .