TPS Connector

[WahooSteeler]

Finally got around to installing my bored TB yesterday afternoon. When I removed the stock unit, I noticed my TPS has one connector right there by the TB and the other 3-wire harness goes in to a wiring loom towards the back of the engine. Darkness and the threat of rain kept me from tracing where it connected eventually, but needless to say this very perplexing. I have a Mopar replacement TPS I was going to install also but the connectors are both only about 6 inches long, point being the one lead will never reach the other connector it goes to.

 

A Google/YouTube search did not provide any answers as everything I saw had both connectors right in the TB area. Anybody familiar with this?  

[Ωhm]

Are you saying your missing the 4 pin Transmission Throttle Position connector, harness side?

[WahooSteeler]

29 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

Are you saying your missing the 4 pin Transmission Throttle Position connector, harness side?

 

Yes and no. It's there somewhere, I assume, I just haven't traced the 3 wire harness all the way to that connector yet and it is not in plain view at the back of the engine or firewall. So the engine side of the harness is on about a 6 inch pigtail, which appears to be normal. But the trans side would have to be at least 2ft or more once I have a chance to trace it to the connector. The truck is my high school son's daily and he won't be home til later tonight from a school event so I'll post up a picture later. 

[Ωhm]

Does your boy have a auto or manual transmission?

[WahooSteeler]

1 hour ago, Ωhm said:

Does your boy have a auto or manual transmission?

 

My truck, he just drives it LOL. Auto.....

[WahooSteeler]

So the square 4 pin connector is in place right off of the TB. As I started to trace the wires to the 3 pin connector I noticed for the first time where they had been spliced evidenced by the heat shrink tubing in the picture attached. But as I follow the loom down the length of the valve cover, the only wires exiting the loom are to the injectors (and discovery of #6 leaking!), a single wire to the coolant temp sending unit, two wires to a connector that goes to the MAT, and then the loom turns and continues to the C101 connector where 3 wires come out of the loom and are part of a large 3 wire connector that traces back along the top of the firewall towards the pass side, i.e. it does not connect to the C101 anywhere. 

 

Obviously I'm just going to have to pull the loom off and trace the spliced wires, but why in the hell would anybody do this? There is a 3 wire connector in the other picture attached, but it only has 2 wires going in it, and it the wires come out of a smaller loom along the firewall coming from the pass side, so it does not seem this is "the missing link".  

[cruiser54]

The 3 pin connector with 2 wires is CPS. 

 

I bet someone went around the C101 with those wires. Good idea really.

 

Wanna teach your son soldering skills?

 

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS

C101 ELIMINATION

NOVEMBER 17, 2015 SALAD 43 COMMENTS

Revised 3/6/2014

As noted in Tip #2, Renix C101 Connector Refreshing, in 1989 the factory wiring harness no longer included the problematic connector. For a long-term fix that will avoid many problems in the future, it is a good idea to just get rid of the thing entirely.

A helpful video can be found in the link below:

Unbolt the 2 halves of the C101 using a ¼” socket. On each half there is a plastic cover where the wires enter. They are removable but you’ll probably end up busting them off. Lightly bolt the C101 back together, away from the firewall. Peel back the split-loom covering from the body side of the C101 connector down to where the harness splits and goes toward the firewall, pretty much below the MAP sensor. On the engine side, remove the split loom about the same distance.

Now you can see from one side of the C101 to the other. Beginning at the top row, closest to the motor, be absolutely sure you cut the matching wires on each side of the connector off to about 1/2 inch. This will allow you to verify the original position of each wire color in case of mistakes or confusion. CUT AND SOLDER ONE PAIR AT A TIME. The wires may be wound a bit in their looms. See the first photo. Get them unwound neatly and do the following, ONE AT A TIME.

Slide your shrink tube over one wire. In a well ventilated area, solder the wires together and then slide the shrink tubing over the solder joint. Heat the shrink tubing so it seals your completed solder joint. Keep going until you’ve done all 22 or so connections.

Both sides of the C101 connection have a wire that is brown with white tracer. Follow each of these wires back until you come to a point where three wires are crimped together.

What you want to do here is cut the crappy factory crimp out of each set of three and bring both sets of three wires together and solder them together, using shrink tubing as well. All 6 wires. These particular wires will not end up in your normal C101 elimination loom. The sensor ground upgrade is found in Tip 6.

After all the soldering and shrink tubing is done, bundle the wires together in a new piece of 3/4″ split loom. Tape it up and secure it to the C101 connector’s original bolt hole or somewhere else along the firewall so it will be protected.

 

 

[omega_rugal]

i still try to figure out who thought the c101 was a good idea... and going from open to closed cooling only to go back to open a few years later...