15x8 with -19mm offset...? CJ wheels

[Rohls]

Hi All,

 

Just bought a set of American racing wheels for my Ford van. Turns out the offset (-19mm) is too much for my van. Great...!

 

luckily I have a 92 MJ with stock wheels, that I like, but have tinkered with the idea of swapping on day...

 

The wheels I would like to put on my MJ are 15x8 with -19mm offset. They have a 5x5.5 bolt pattern, and I know my MJ has a 5x4.5.

 

my question is can I run these new wheels on say 31s or 33s without steering issues? It looks like the stick MJ wheels have a bit of backspacing, but since the new wheels has a bit too...and are meant for a CJ anyway...could they work? I know I have to buy an adapter...and that’s like a 1” spacer...

 

is this sounding like a Bad idea?

 

thanks!

 

 

[Eagle]

We don't deal in "offset." For Jeep wheels the usual spec is "backspacing." What's the backspacing of the wheels you're considering?

[Jeep Driver]

You BS should be close to 5".........BTW, it's BS you want to look at here. 

 

1 1/4 spacers will put you at 3.75 BS.

 

Will it work? Yes. 

 

You are jumping through hoops, personally I'm tired of hoops. 

[Pete M]

how much lift do you have?

[Rohls]

On 4/27/2019 at 4:21 PM, Eagle said:

We don't deal in "offset." For Jeep wheels the usual spec is "backspacing." What's the backspacing of the wheels you're considering?

Thanks. I was just reading what was stamped on the wheel; -19. I suppose since the wheel is an 8", 0 offset would be 4" BS, and 19mm is ~3/4" so I have 3.25" BS on the wheels I am thinking about putting on the MJ.

 

I have about 4.5" lift on the stock rims (not sure what BS these are?).

 

I'm running 31" Toyo all terrains tires.

 

I'd rather not put spacers on there (other than the adapter) if I didn't have to.

 

Thanks!

[Jeep Driver]

2 hours ago, Rohls said:

Thanks. I was just reading what was stamped on the wheel; -19. I suppose since the wheel is an 8", 0 offset would be 4" BS, and 19mm is ~3/4" so I have 3.25" BS on the wheels I am thinking about putting on the MJ.

 

I have about 4.5" lift on the stock rims (not sure what BS these are?).

 

I'm running 31" Toyo all terrains tires.

 

I'd rather not put spacers on there (other than the adapter) if I didn't have to.

 

Thanks!

An 8in wheel is actually 9 in in width.

 

This is why it's important to actually measure the back spacing.

 

An adapter is a spacer.

[Rohls]

Ok. So I could runs these rims, right?

[Eagle]

10 minutes ago, Rohls said:

Ok. So I could runs these rims, right?

 

What's the backspacing? Stock Jeep 15x7 rims are 5-1/4" backspacing. As far as I know, nobody has yet found any aftermarket rim with that much backspacing.

 

Your opening post said these "new" wheels are 5x5.5 bolt circle. Your hubs are 5x4.5. That means you can't use these wheels without adapters.

[FrankTheDog]

Also 5.0x5 is a JK,WK,WJ bolt pattern.

CJ is 5.5x5.

With adapters and 3.5” backspace the wheels will stick out ridiculously far.

 

Your track width will be at least 6” wider with that setup.

 

[Rohls]

21 hours ago, Eagle said:

 

What's the backspacing? Stock Jeep 15x7 rims are 5-1/4" backspacing. As far as I know, nobody has yet found any aftermarket rim with that much backspacing.

 

Your opening post said these "new" wheels are 5x5.5 bolt circle. Your hubs are 5x4.5. That means you can't use these wheels without adapters.

 

I believe the wheels I"m trying to put on there are at 3.25" BS. I was planning on using adapters, as I know I would have to. This would add and inch or so (?)....but how would this effect the steering and driveability I wonder? at to FrankThe Dog's point, I'm going to have a wider track...but is that going to make the MJ unsafe / less stable at speed?

 

Thanks All.

[Eagle]

Wider track will make it more stable on the road, but it's going to create massive issues with the tires hitting the bodywork when you try to turn.

 

Take it one step at a time. First, most factory wheels are 7" and the ones you're looking at are 8". If we use backspacing as the benchmark,  with the same backspacing an 8" rim extends outboard on the vehicle one inch more than a 7" rim.

 

Now reduce the backspacing by two inches. That pushes the entire wheel outboard another two inches relative to the hub, axle, and chassis. So you're now looking at the tires sitting three inches farther out (on each side) than stock. Then add a spacer/adapter and you're at 5" or 5-1/2", depending on how thick the adapter is. That's on each side. Consider that when the front wheels turn, the tire and wheel are rotating around the axis of the ball joints. Put your truck up on jack stands and watch the front tires while you have someone turn the steering wheel. Now imaging how it will be with 33-inch tires that have the outer shoulder 5 inches farther outboard. (Actually, more than 5", unless the tires you have on now are 12.5" wide.)

 

Lastly, consider that with the tires sticking out an extra 5+ inches on each side you may be inviting tickets for unsafe equipment. I think every state has laws or regulations that require the bodywork to cover the tires. Those laws are enforced sporadically, but the farther out the tires stick the more likely you are to get cited. I one got a warning for 31x10.50s on stock rims, because I didn't have front flares and the tires stuck out about an inch (maybe an inch and a half).

 

Afterthought: Also remember that you're only extending the tire and wheel outboard, the hub and bearings will remain in the same place. That means you will be greatly increasing the eccentricity of the load on the hub/bearing unit, which will result in the hub/bearing units wearing out faster.

[Rohls]

1 hour ago, Eagle said:

Wider track will make it more stable on the road, but it's going to create massive issues with the tires hitting the bodywork when you try to turn.

 

Take it one step at a time. First, most factory wheels are 7" and the ones you're looking at are 8". If we use backspacing as the benchmark,  with the same backspacing an 8" rim extends outboard on the vehicle one inch more than a 7" rim.

 

Now reduce the backspacing by two inches. That pushes the entire wheel outboard another two inches relative to the hub, axle, and chassis. So you're now looking at the tires sitting three inches farther out (on each side) than stock. Then add a spacer/adapter and you're at 5" or 5-1/2", depending on how thick the adapter is. That's on each side. Consider that when the front wheels turn, the tire and wheel are rotating around the axis of the ball joints. Put your truck up on jack stands and watch the front tires while you have someone turn the steering wheel. Now imaging how it will be with 33-inch tires that have the outer shoulder 5 inches farther outboard. (Actually, more than 5", unless the tires you have on now are 12.5" wide.)

 

Lastly, consider that with the tires sticking out an extra 5+ inches on each side you may be inviting tickets for unsafe equipment. I think every state has laws or regulations that require the bodywork to cover the tires. Those laws are enforced sporadically, but the farther out the tires stick the more likely you are to get cited. I one got a warning for 31x10.50s on stock rims, because I didn't have front flares and the tires stuck out about an inch (maybe an inch and a half).

 

Afterthought: Also remember that you're only extending the tire and wheel outboard, the hub and bearings will remain in the same place. That means you will be greatly increasing the eccentricity of the load on the hub/bearing unit, which will result in the hub/bearing units wearing out faster.

 

 

Thanks Eagle! I agree. Its seems I'm going to have to sell these wheels as I would be inviting trouble if I didn't.