Clutch master cylinder trouble

[JeepDreamer26]

Ok its a originally a 87 2wd 4cyl 4spd. Now it is 4wd with a ax5(for now, or til it explodes) anyways the trans is oit of a 96 Cherokee, which has that plastic one peice master, line, and slave the prebled thingy thays like 300bucks!! Ive seen trouble with those things but now I'm wondering if thats what i should have put in my truck. I loked the idea of being able to change the parts individually line, slave, master. So through out my info search only 4cyl ax5 trans that has a external slave that was not a plastic unit was a 1986. So my truck has a slave from a 86 with the holes slotted to bolt to the studs on the trans and the original style master.my first issues were the rod in the slave found out it was too short making it over extend and leak. Put a rod from a 90 s10 and havent had trouble with the slave since, the master however i changed 3x. Always with same issue. The damn thing leaks on my fuse block which just cause me a real headach last night on my way home. Dose anyone know why these masters are so prone to leaking are they just junk? Am i doing sumthing wrong? Or whats the problem everyone ive pit in all ends up leaking imside my truck and jacking my fuse box up? Anyone ever had this issue? What did u do? Or should i just put the plastic one peice thing in? Thanks for any info!

[Jeep Driver]

Spend the money.

 

 

[Jeep Driver]

https://www.ebay.com/p/Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Mopar-52104110-fits-1994-Jeep-Cherokee/83206824

[schardein]

I think the last pre-bled unit I bought was the cheapest one from Rockauto.  Ran it for 5 or 6 years until I swapped engines and went with a different setup.  $98.89 + shipping on Rockauto.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1996,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1180314,transmission-manual,clutch+master+and+slave+cylinder+assembly,10290

[Jeep Driver]

The aftermarkets have a single plunger, the Mopar has a dual plunger. 

 

The aftermarkets will fail just as the OP has experienced, doesn't matter if it's pre-bled or not.

 

Somewhere I have pics of the two. 

 

 

Also, it helps to bend the shaft about 5-6 degrees downward where it meets the pin on the pedal, helps the shaft to go in and out of the master parallel to the bore of the master.

[schardein]

I experienced a M/C failure in a swap scenario where there was no positive stop for the clutch pedal other than the M/C itself.  The pushrod popped out the back of the M/C.  I was able to rig it in place to get home.  Replaced it with the Rockauto unit and had no issues for 6 years.  I currently have it apart so I am modifying the linkage to have a mechanical positive stop at pedal fully up.

 

Jeepdreamer26, if I understand your post correctly, you still have the stock M/C.  Does the Jeep pedal assembly have a positive stop for the pedal?  I don't have any manual XJ/MJ so can't look myself.

 

Besides being a low quality part as described by Jeepdriver, I wonder if the lack of a positive stop could contribute to the problem?

[Limeyjeeper]

I had mine recently jamb with the piston buried in the back of the master cylinder because I pushed down too hard on the pedal while putting my wallet back into my back pocket. Tolerances are not quite right on some of the aftermarket ones.

[Jeep Driver]

I no longer have a spare OEM master to take apart but you will see here that the aftermarket POS has only one plunger, Mopar has two plungers. 

 

Also note, as stated in post above regarding the shaft getting jammed- Bend the shaft downward about 4-5 degrees and the shaft will go in the bore more parallel to the bore.