Leaking Parts

[Beachgrove]

1992 MJ Base model, long bed, 2WD, 4.0 H.O. engine. I think the AX 15 transmission, Dana 35 C rear end don't know the gear ratio.

 

135,000 miles

 

I have total rebuilt two UTV and a four wheeler wanting to do something different.

 

Bought this jeep for $2,500.00 almost a year ago

 

Right now trying to keep it together!!!

 

I plan on a 4WD conversion but for now doing a lot of research to see which route would be the easiest. Any Suggestions? Where to get Parts?

 

I plan on using it to go in the hunting club, ranch work, and of coarse show off a little in town.

 

I wanted to ask a couple questions:

 

Does look like a rear main seal leak? Oil is getting on transmission. how can you tell the difference?

To replace the front main seal do you have to take off the front end to get the oil pan off?

What going on with the end of my Transmission looks like it is leaking their also?

Does the rear end need a gasket?

 

Should I just wait and slow get my parts together for the conversion?

 

What I done so far Valve cover gasket, New plugs, new distributor, did the o ring fix on the oil filter, replaced the oil sensor that leaks. New fuel pump, AC conversion Kit, New Brakes, new shocks, new front rotors.

 

What i need window seals

sending unit searched long and hard. previous owner broke it taking it out.

Floor pans are in bad shape.

 

[Pete M]

the valve cover gasket is a very common leak and it'll drip down the back of the block and look like an RMS leak.  I would check that first.  

 

to gain clearance for the oil pan removal you can jack up the front of the truck so the axle drops out of the way.  you'll want all the clearance you can get, but it does eventually fit.

 

there's a link to a window seal replacement writeup in the link in my sig.

 

for a 4wheel swap, it's common practice to buy a whole XJ with the drivetrain you want.  but this doesn't get you any better gearing. 

4.0 + stick = 3.07s 

4.0 + auto = 3.55s 

and they are the most common out there and are a decent upgrade for a stickshift Jeep with stockish tires.

 

car-part.com can help with junkyard searches.  be sure to search for multiple years, as any AX-15 can work, but the part numbers changed over the years and the website searches strictly by part number.  same thing goes for front axles and t-cases and whatnot.  first learn what can be made to work, and then go search for what's out there.  

 

rebuilt AX-15s are available out there. 

 

94ish and up will have the external slave.

 

also, WJ control arms are a good upgrade for a stockish Jeep.  they are fully boxed, bent inward for tire clearance while turning, same length as MJ arms, better bushing design, and available new.  they just need the metal sleeve inside the bushings trimmed flush with the rubber part. 

 

if you haven't already, read through the "most important tip" thread at the top of this forum. 

[fiatslug87]

There is a seal for the end of the 2WD transmission, you can cross reference Jeep PN 83502118, #30 in pic below.

[Eagle]

The front seal is in the timing chain cover. It is not necessary to drop the oil pan to replace it. Removing the radiator makes it easier, but is also not necessary.

 

The seal where the driveshaft enters the transmission is very easy to replace. Drop the driveshaft, pull the old seal, tap in the new seal.

 

Rear main seal does require dropping the oil pan but, as already noted by others, first be certain that the leak isn't due to another source.

[cruiser54]

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS

REAR MAIN SEAL DIAGNOSIS

OCTOBER 31, 2015 SALAD 2 COMMENTS

 

I’d be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.

Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?

A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons:

First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area.

Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”.

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.  A little tip here. Rather than use a dizzy gasket, use an o ring instead. NAPA #727-2024. Tips 12 and 13 will help you get your distributor back in place correctly. 

 

 

[Beachgrove]

Your suggestions are greatly appreciated that's where I will start!