Jump to content

Budget Wheeler - 87' MJ


Recommended Posts

Forgot to post this from the axle swap.  It took me like absolutely forever to press in new u joints in my drive shaft.  The needle bearings just kept falling in and I'd have to take it apart, stand them up again and try again. I tried a hammer at first, which was super hard to get right although I think I did get the slip yoke onto the ujoint that way.  Eventually I switched to a ball joint press which was easier but I still had a ton of trouble getting things perfectly lined up, so I was still dropping the pins into the caps.  Really annoying I must say.  I certainly will not be putting ujoints in anything else unless I have to.

 

IMG_0363.jpg.c6ded2ac5340175f71009c264f810c2f.jpg

 

Once I got it in I noticed the rear end of the t case is leaking fluid.  Not cool.

 

IMG_0709.jpg.159490c884b80c90f5cf7d65b93fa71a.jpg

 

Also I can tell from the wear pattern on the slip yoke that it sits about 3/4" further out than before.  Nothing bad about that, still plenty left in the receiver.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Bought this guy for $36 on ebay, shipped to the door.

 

IMG_0622.jpg.67a87c32887a4299b8caa2945558b3a9.jpgIMG_0623.jpg.59b994a527aa3ebc24d79ec1149a4293.jpg

 

I've read online they have these weird metric standard hybrid fittings.  The threads are metric but they are for a 3/16" brake line.

 

IMG_0624.jpg.8f06461c2e2920185ad5880f5f58c7b9.jpg

 

Also looking at the old ones these are bubble flares, so I'll have to figure that out.  I have a flaring tool in the barn, seems like it says that on the box it came in.  I'm sure I can watch a video or something and figure it out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have this roll of brake line left over from another project.  Luckily it's the right size.  I'll use it for the lines on my master/booster swap. IMG_0625.jpg.23a2332dbdfc835c16eedbeaf84caf94.jpg

 

None of those fittings will do the job though, I bought some m10-1.0 and m12-1.0 fittings off ebay.  $5 for a bag of ten.  So now I have 18 spares lol.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Starting to pull the old master/booster out.  I have to remove the airbox.  Luckily most of the bolts in it have rusted away over the years.

IMG_0648.jpg.0d0970222c741365aa66c9259f1dec96.jpg

 

Surprisingly the open lines didn't drip that much

 

IMG_0663.jpg.4cedeb1da169887e0797e0e1c735a9df.jpg

 

IMG_0664.jpg.3ba557a408c609794d64617093b765be.jpg

 

Here's the booster out all the way.  Not much width to the booster compared to the wj one.

 

IMG_0661.jpg.78cf19802b9c1b9bb1b81f466b235d6c.jpg

 

 

IMG_0662.jpg.f067e53c1670ceea8705657e0248c4b7.jpg

 

I'm sure the master cylinder will push way more fluid than the 31 year old one 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you're going to be thrilled once all those updated parts are in play. :D 

 

I recently discovered that my '00 Dakota has the metric-3/16"-bubble flare thing going on.  I wussed out and got pre-made lines. :roflmao:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/28/2019 at 11:53 PM, Pete M said:

you're going to be thrilled once all those updated parts are in play. :D 

 

I recently discovered that my '00 Dakota has the metric-3/16"-bubble flare thing going on.  I wussed out and got pre-made lines. :roflmao:

 

I got it installed, braking is much better, I hardly ever press the pedal all the way down now.  I did end up flaring the lines myself.  It's not pretty but it's been a few months and no leaks!

 

IMG_0687.jpg.cac719cc3d3501ddeccc959fbfabb0cf.jpg

IMG_0688.jpg.e3774f77c783d5c9efe7ab79b3c47cfc.jpg

 

That second one is a little weirdly shaped, I probably didn't shave the end evenly enough.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I matched the end of the rod on the master/booster combo.  Took a bit of playing around but it was actually really simple.  I just drilled out the hole to make it a bit bigger and ground it down so there was a matching flat spot on the end of the rod.  All so it could hold the sensor for the brake light.

 

IMG_0672.jpg.1cd89cb2a11b8aa3fb56d904ba5ed6f5.jpg

 

I was a little afraid it wouldn't work as well: too sensitive or not sensitive enough.  Turns out it wasn't an issue, though, I got it on the first try.  To fit it in the jeep I had to bend the seam near the top on the firewall.  The old nuts didn't end up fitting either, I had to get new ones with different thread (M12).  

 

IMG_0691.jpg.777507a71479458e0d499d8280fbfe1d.jpg

 

Unfortunately the lines exit the mc on the same side as the windshield washer fluid reservoir.

 

IMG_0692.jpg.afdd5a13b1daa94fb1ba36c29d08f9eb.jpg

 

Routing them down here wasn't that bad.  The lines I had were really bendy, I just measured them out using a piece of string, flared the ends and bent them in place.

IMG_0685.jpg.5dbc59991e451ce37b4ee3b8de7f2ea1.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I never posted the pics but I went to this great offroad place in central ma.  Had a ton of fun and wheeled on harder trails than I ever had before but I ended up tearing the sidewall in one of my tires and denting the rear corner of my bed while sliding off a hill.

 

These general grabber at2 tires are really bad.  I aired them down to like 12 and tore a sidewall clean through so I had to put on my spare.  About a year later I tore another one, but not all the way through this time.

 

This trip was before I added lockers (it was the motivation for doing so).  There was this little muddy hill with a tight turn at the bottom, I easily would have made it up with lockers but I didn't because I was open front and rear.

 

IMG_0255.jpg.0375c58769f96bbfd17bf607f490bce7.jpg

 

IMG_0264.jpg.c8ee19c4d3d08fbbc731f222c6709cf9.jpg

 

IMG_0198.jpg.3a3ad525988389f87c16e5e85a60fd7b.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IMG_0257_LI.jpg.826b6934b8eb3f61d5fab49c14ca31de.jpg

That dent in the corner is new as of this trip. 

 

On another note, I'd love to bob the truck and make it a flatbed.  I kept getting hung up on the rear bumper, tow hitch or other body part beyond the rear tire.  I might have to switch the rear to coils or something other than leafs because the rear leaf hanger extends so far back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been seeing some low voltages on the gauge in the jeep when at stop lights and low reving off road.  I figure I might have the really weak 62 amp alternator or it's just tired after 32 some odd years.

 

Here's the voltage at when the jeep is off (two different times), not quite 12v but it's been going on for over a year like this and still keeps it at or near 12v.  

IMG_0941.jpg.5023c76053cc35007d4abdf853fb29ff.jpgIMG_0942.jpg.10807eb7b32f530541e4b3d78b6987f9.jpg

 

If I run the engine and step on the gas the volt meter in the cab reads up near 14 v

IMG_0982.jpg.6dfa0fb434174ec1c076fd6d7c1d454e.jpg

 

 

But idling it reads 12.51v at the battery.  Nothing too impressive.

IMG_0938.jpg.2fd20c4c745eb11400d2828db3e134d4.jpg

 

I certainly won't try running a winch any time soon :laugh: or even plugging in those kc lites I have on the front bumper.  I dug around and found a 1994 or so c1500 alternator (low output) is a cs121 style 100 amp alternator.  I might upgrade to that 816576G (part number)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Pete M said:

corrosion in the cables and at the connection points can kill the voltage too.  don't forget to upgrade those parts when you install the bigger alt. :L: 

That’s right, :doh: I keep forgetting to do cruiser’s renix tips.  I think the PO might have replaced the battery cables, they look newer, but I should at least check all the grounds.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

My friends dad had this seat in his shed, it’s a little dusty but looks to be in way better condition than my bench.  I’ll swap it in when I get the time for a much needed comfort improvement.  Looks like this one won’t cost me anything at all, he was just going to throw it away anyways.

 

76BF7478-7437-46EB-B7BA-800DF8B44ADB.jpeg.4efe6bfc20f395597cf00d0b1f0fe621.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...

Finally got around to installing that seat that I got.  It’s muchhh more comfortable and the bucket style seats make me less likely to slide around offroad and just taking corners fast.


Install wasn’t to hard, my seat brackets were rusted pretty bad but I managed to adapt them to the other seat with a few tabs I made out of flat stock.
 

Outside holes were about 37”

2AE41BB6-9826-4B6F-B125-6F1D58A95CF6.jpeg.992886377c1d894915d3e12eaf69ffda.jpeg


insides were about 20.5” apart

F4D62DCD-E722-4FC0-9EF6-E0C278DCEAAE.jpeg.f0cc4fe408b93c028bf4f847120509e4.jpeg

 

7CB321C9-FE83-46A2-A24C-BC71AEB8AAF9.jpeg.99d7c443edf702cff4272a85fcfbed1b.jpeg

here’s one of the tabs on the seat, I put the oem rail on top of this with washers for spacers

6EC7760B-5415-40DA-B773-668B76C1ACA7.jpeg.b8bcf5ba1792da6e58725c1fdb8cad6b.jpeg
 

the spacers were just some flat stock i had around, probably 1/4”.3F179AEA-68F4-421C-A726-D6912EFCE012.jpeg.0c5faa2ad44dfe9634a436efaa618648.jpeg

 

here it is in the jeep.  I only bolted the rear in at first, then made the front spacers to match with the way the brackets were bolted in.24353556-50DB-451B-9FC6-71E08E469B66.jpeg.e207bad07071e09694dbbae692b6805c.jpeg654C994E-5F0E-4DBD-8E1E-30A5C1D1CDCA.thumb.jpeg.4569e96538edc28defd29029fa87ecf0.jpegD7D9AF65-CECC-4730-937B-B70608F34B3A.jpeg.e9da294c532870ed748f5b16c1c0131d.jpeg

 

took some time to measure everything up and fenagle stuff, overall probably about 8 hrs total.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

when doing front brakes (been meaning to do calipers and rotors for a while) I noticed both front wheels had play, looks to be the ball joints.

 

AFFA8122-00AA-448E-8E98-38A560EE5049.jpeg.f164e7521451a9ce16fabc01c8bb88f3.jpeg

 

4A908A48-0E5D-44B1-A32C-7B7953CE4BCC.jpeg.e7137a402da9aa820f450cfb1ef53c1f.jpeg

 

6073697C-91CA-4D31-91BB-796F2C42533A.jpeg.0911ef0d1360419e546d09f783c23e06.jpeg

805BDC1C-A17C-4C2C-9506-C9CF1F780696.jpeg.e93e3315aaff3a16d1bd605988a1955f.jpeg
 

took a while to tear down but I’ve been in here a bunch of times lately so I'm getting used to it.  I went with the oem dana ball joints, they didn’t really cost that much ($102) and tbh I don’t trust the overseas brands at the parts stores.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, billyjp2 said:

I live in Springfield and work in East Longmeadow. I hardly see any Comanches around here anymore.


most of them have rusted away at this point unfortunately.  Do you need a bench seat btw?  I have my old one available for free, has a rip in the drivers side but it works.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I replaced the power steering lines a couple years ago because they leaked but now I unfortunately have to do it again.  Last time I routed too close to the steering shaft and it wore through like this.  Luckily a new one is only like $20

 

63EDD043-D064-4707-8870-F188632DC6CE.jpeg.921d167bd90e89319503b9848a4c88cf.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


×
×
  • Create New...