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Valve cover mod question


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It looks like part of the mod was done but not sure if it is complete or not. I got the breather tubes pulled from inside the cover and noticed that it has a hole drilled on the flat side closest to the cover. My question is how long should the tube be after cutting it down?

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20 hours ago, Eagle said:

 

You wrote to drill the hole in the flat side of the vents. The video says to drill it in the side toward the firewall. Which is better?

 

 

Neither. Results are the same as long as there are holes drilled up in that area. JeepTech specified one way, but lots of folks have done it differently and the problem was fixed. 

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Modding the internal vents works.  Seeing as how the OP already has a semi-modified cover, keep on keepin' on:jammin:

 

Another option, which I did, was swap in a later model stamped steel cover.  That style replaced the vents with a baffle tray at the top inside of the cover.  I had a thread on here with some pics, but they met their demise courtesy of Photobucket.  You need to grab the new style cover, the bolts that hold it to the head along with the grommets, and the vaccuum nipple from the intake manifold on the donor vehicle and the CCV hoses.  It also takes a different gasket than the older aluminum cover (which should come with new bolt grommets as well).

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I did what mjeff87 is talking about. Learn from my mistake, and DO NOT use a Crown Automotive valve cover. It was undersized (or maybe the baffle was put in lower) and kept my rocker arms partly depressed, leading to all sorts or nastiness. Gas in the oil, no starts, hard starts, rough running, etc etc. I was doing quite a few things to the truck at the time and it took me awhile to figure out the problem. Went to a JY and pulled a stock cover. That one worked perfectly. Anyways, another story of buyer be ware, especially of C.R.A.P.

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