Steering Loose

[Griff04]

Although this was touched on in another post I had going with a couple of other issues I wanted to start a fresh thread. 

 

Steering is is a little sketchy, wants to wander a little and 1” steering wheel play both ways. It’s really not that bad, still very drivable but I’m just “anal” when it comes to small things like this. 

 

Had some good advice on the steering box adjustment but also suggested looking at all the front end steering components. So that’s where I’m going to start at. 

 

So here I go with a real stupid question. I’m underneath looking around and run across a bar that mounts below the steering stabilizer on the passenger side and to the frame on the drivers side and not sure exactly what it is and it’s purpose. I looked in the FSM and do not see it, keep in mind I have a reproduction FSM so it may be missing so info. 

 

Can someone help me ID it please. 

 

I'm attaching a couple of pics and its mounting location on either side. 

 

Thanks in advance. 

 

 

[HOrnbrod]

Track bar, also called panhard bar. The OEM track bars are fixed - non-adjustable. Looks like yours is adjustable, and it's purpose is to re-center the front end after a lift. 

 

Your track bar is missing the rubber grease boot on the frame end, which probably means it hasn't had grease in quite awhile and the joint is dry and loose.

[Griff04]

1 hour ago, HOrnbrod said:

Track bar, also called panhard bar. The OEM track bars are fixed - non-adjustable. Looks like yours is adjustable, and it's purpose is to re-center the front end after a lift. 

 

Your track bar is missing the rubber grease boot on the frame end, which probably means it hasn't had grease in quite awhile and the joint is dry and loose.

So it wouldnt come into play in regards to the looseness in the steering??

 

BTW, that’s a great diagram, thx. 

[HOrnbrod]

A loose track bar can cause drifting from side to side requiring constant steering adjustments, and in more extreme cases shimmy and vibrations that can cause death wobble. Loose steering is caused caused by worn tie rod ends, a loose / maladjusted steering gear box, etc. Anywhere there's play will cause loose steering. Pretty easy to see if you're under there looking at each joint in the system while someone is rocking the steering wheel side-to-side .

[Eagle]

So it wouldnt come into play in regards to the looseness in the steering??

 

The track bar is the FIRST thing I look at if the steering gets loosey-goosey.

[EdJarHead]

I'm about to renew suspension parts on my '88 Pioneer (Olympic edition) for the same issue and this diagram is excellent, Thanks!

[Griff04]

While looking for my oil leak I took a look at the front end components...definitely slop where the draglink attaches to the pitman arm. Will start from there and work my way through it. Got a RMS to replace on the list @ #1 right now. 

 

Thanks for the input,

griff04

[cruiser54]

18 hours ago, Griff04 said:

While looking for my oil leak I took a look at the front end components...definitely slop where the draglink attaches to the pitman arm. Will start from there and work my way through it. Got a RMS to replace on the list @ #1 right now. 

 

Thanks for the input,

griff04

You can always have someone move the steering wheel back and forth while you observe the steering components. You will see what's moving.

 

are you sure you need a RMS?

 

I’d be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.

Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?

A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons:

First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area.

Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”.

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.

[Griff04]

16 minutes ago, cruiser54 said:

You can always have someone move the steering wheel back and forth while you observe the steering components. You will see what's moving.

 

are you sure you need a RMS?

 

I’d be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.

Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?

A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons:

First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area.

Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”.

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.

Hey Cruiser,

 

Yes, pretty much eliminated everything else. I’ve replaced VC gasket which was leaking, replacing the o-rings in the oil filter adapter which was pouring, looked at the distributor seal it’s okay....actually checked all the items on your tip #12 and then some. 

 

I ordered my Felpro RMS seal/ oil pan gasket, and Mopar OEM oil pump from Amazon last nite, not going to be here until next week. I figured since I was already there I’d do the oil pump also. I know there’s vehicles out there with the original oil pump still in them with a lot more miles but if it failed on me later on and trashed the motor I’d be kicking myself. 

 

Thanks,

Griff

[Griff04]

Got the connecting rod end that attaches to the pitman arm off today and replaced. Checked everything else which appeared to be tight.

 

Took a prybar to the trackbar and is it solid also. The boots do need replacing which I will get to, once I pull it I’ll further inspect for wear and proceed as needed. 

 

So I have a track bar question...I took some measurement off the frame to the outside of the tires, passenger side sticks out 3/4” more than the drivers side. That would be a 3/8” adjustment to get it dead nuts...will the 3/8” cause an issue??

 

After buttoning it up I drove it for a short distance and man what a difference it made. Actually much tighter and didn’t notice hardly any drift. I’ll drive it to work tonite on the 8 lane and can tell more about it. 

 

I’m attaching a pic of the rod end I pulled off. The pic is looking straight down the stud end where the castle nut screws on. It’s pretty oblonged out which I don’t think it should be. Pretty sure that’s where my steering slop was coming from. 

[Jeep Driver]

The elliptical shape allows for a greater range of movement. 

Yes, it's supposed to be that way. 

 

 

Yes, adjust your TB to center your axle, then adjust your steering to center afterwards.

[Griff04]

7 hours ago, Jeep Driver said:

The elliptical shape allows for a greater range of movement. 

Yes, it's supposed to be that way. 

 

 

Yes, adjust your TB to center your axle, then adjust your steering to center afterwards.

Hey JD,

 

There was definitely some slop in it. I drove it tonite to work on the interstate, 70-75mph, and it went right down the middle with no wandering and tight steering. Unless some drastic pops up I’m considering this closed out and marking it off the “need to do right now” list. Once I go back to replace the boots on the TB I’ll work on the items you mentioned. 

 

Thanks for the reply. 

Griff04