hedbutter Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 Had a caliper hang up on me yesterday so figured it was time to replace both as well as pads/rotors. Was going to use the duralast rebuilt calipers and gold pads/rotors, but does anyone have further recommendations? Also, while I'm doing the job, anything else i should look at maintenance wise/replace? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75sv1 Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 I'd probably look at Wagner or Raybestos Thermo-Quiets for the pads. I have not used them, as far as I can remember. Some rate them as good as Hawk pads. I am currently using mid grade NAPA pads. I do have Black Magic pads, not installed. Centric for the rotors. Not sure on the calipers. Probably Raybestos, Wagner, Centric or what ever is the top of the line with NAPA or CARQUEST. I would change to rubber hose lines. I'd probably do the rears, with new wheel cylinders, hardware, shoes. I'd check the steel lines, especially the one running to the rear. Look for rust. Bleed the system till the fluid come out clear. I use a brake bleeder made by Mintcraft. I think $10 at NAPA. It is a small bottle, with a magnet 90 degrees to the cap. Some plastic hoses and fittings with the kit. I used a 90 degree rubber fitting from another brake bleeder kit, to fit to the bleeder screw nipples. It looks rinky dink. But it works good for me. You can only pump about 10 times, then you have to empty it. I do have Centric calipers and Rotors on an MB240D. I think some Germany company pads. Also, Centric Rotors on the XJ. Black Magic pads (Mr. Blaine) recommends them for use with their pads. I checked Rock Auto, both Centric and Raybestos make calipers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SVPete Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 I used Duralast calipers which I ordered on-line, ship to home (it was a good deal), with AutoZone. Got two of the same calipers (both were left side, I think). Boxes were marked correctly, but wrong part in one of the boxes. Went to the local store and exchanged one for the right side......and the left side I kept, the seal was loose on it. So, I went back and got the left side I exchanged. The staff were polite and helpful, so no need to rip the "big box store". After that, I would recommend taking a good look at them before installation. Agree with 75sv1, eyeball your flexible lines to the calipers and see if you should replace them while your at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBoJeep88 Posted June 19, 2018 Share Posted June 19, 2018 If you're doing brake upgrades, it has been recommended by others to do an upgrade of the brake booster to a WJ dual diaphragm. These two links were super helpful (in addition to info on this forum): http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes/xj_wjbrakes03/valve/index.htm https://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=924285 Can't speak from personal experience quite yet -- I just ordered the parts from partsauto.com. Will let you know how it comes out : ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75sv1 Posted June 19, 2018 Share Posted June 19, 2018 As for the flex lines, they are a rubber part. I'd replace them like radiator hoses every 5 years. They can debond internally. Its sort of a one way valve. I have seen it happen. One neighbor had a locked up caliper. Another neighbor worked on it, and said that is what it was. Sort of the problems mentioned above is why I go elsewhere for part and not Autozone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hedbutter Posted June 21, 2018 Author Share Posted June 21, 2018 Thanks! All the lines looked solid a few weeks back so i'll planning to keep those (teardown is tomorrow, replacement Sunday). If i notice something looks too rough ill order replacements for those as well. Right now, i'm keeping it stock and going from there. As far as caliper vs line, the wheel was at 210+ degrees when i limped it home, so i'm guessing thats the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75sv1 Posted June 21, 2018 Share Posted June 21, 2018 Also, look at the surface the calipers ride on. They get a dent or divot on them. This can prevent the caliper from floating. From my experience, one of the pads wears quicker than the other one. Still, that is limited experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 On 6/21/2018 at 7:23 AM, 75sv1 said: Also, look at the surface the calipers ride on. They get a dent or divot on them. This can prevent the caliper from floating. From my experience, one of the pads wears quicker than the other one. Still, that is limited experience. I struggled with sticking brake pads and recently learned about and addressed the divots. I may try some molybdenum in this area in hopes of assisting the floating of the pad and maybe even preventing the divot from forming in the first place. It's a thought. Sticking pads are annoying as heck. I believe I was even getting death-wobble-like symptoms due to this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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