Pete M Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 trying to find time to get out to pullapart again and this time focusing on the Liberty. She's a salt belt Jeep and I'm down south so I'm sure there are plenty of items that I can grab. this is what's on the list so far: ABS computer (last time it was in the shop they said the comp wouldn't talk to them) wheel sensors (in case it's not the comp) the rear window thingies that like to break (regulator guide?) skid plates front trans lines (mine are rusty enough to start leaking) blower resistor as well as a sunvisor for a ptCruiser and whatever is left of value on that beat up MJ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted May 4, 2018 Share Posted May 4, 2018 Definitely grab the window motors/tracks. I've only had one go out on mine so far (passenger front), but I'm sure the driver side is going to die any day now LOL. You might also want to grab the rear gate motor/mechanism/thingy inside the gate. Mine is becoming intermittent, but nothing a good solid whack on the gate below the handle hasn't fixed so far. EVIC display module too, if it has an additional functions on it that yours might not (dunno, they might all be the same on later models). Those things are not cheap. The one I got from my 'yard was $11......they go for several hundred retail. Minor side note.....I put new UCA's on mine yesterday (balljoints were SHOT in mine). If you've not had the fun of replacing them on yours yet, just wait! Driver side was an utter pig to get to the rear frame bolt/nut.....took me about 2 hours until I figured out the right combination of almost every tool I owned to get torque on it LOL. A universal/swivel for my 1/2" drive socket set would have made it much easier but I either don't own one or if I do I can't find it anywhere :) Passenger side only took about 25 minutes, everything is right there once you pull the airbox out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old man with MJ Posted May 4, 2018 Share Posted May 4, 2018 The crossbars for the luggage rack are hard to find, Evics and anything CRD specific! Wave and honk your horn when you go by; just kidding! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old man with MJ Posted May 4, 2018 Share Posted May 4, 2018 Note: There is a 87 MJ base,4cyc, 4sp at a used car lot in Doraville, said he couldn't open the hood,need to show him! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 4, 2018 Author Share Posted May 4, 2018 rear latch mechanism was the first thing I grabbed last time didn't think about the evic. that's a good idea! side note, the junkyard switch fixed my mirrors! guess I should grab another of those. and if I ever see a crd in the junkyards I'm stripping it clean! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted May 4, 2018 Share Posted May 4, 2018 The radi- Actually, never mind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 I did peek in each XJ I saw to check the radios. I'd never done that before. stupid unicorn CD player!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 Radio, ??? Tell me what I'm missing, lol. I've got a CD player in mine, stock. Is that a rarity or sum thin? I saw bezel kits online (for relatively cheep) to convert the stock head unit to a double DIN unit and am thinking seriously about it. There's minor mods you have to make inside the dash cavity. I'd like to have a unit that can display a backup camera. My wife's Subaru is like that, and it's kinda nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 they are a rarity in the XJs. double din? I... sorta went in a different direction. but it does have bluetooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 7, 2018 Author Share Posted May 7, 2018 smart me showed up today and I had the thought to experiment on my own Jeep's doors to see what it takes to remove the window regulator stuff. totally worth it as I now know exactly what to do. should be a cinch to snag as many of those little plastic guides as I can (and it'll be a heck of a lot cheaper than buying the whole assembly!) plan is to hit the yards tomorrow morning! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 I've not done the rears (yet...) but if they're similar to the fronts, literally all you need is a small Phillips and a 10mm socket. One screw inside the door handle covered by a little plastic cap and another inside the "cup" of the armrest. Pull those then carefully pop the door panel off the Christmas tree holders, then pull straight up. Once the panel is free you have to reach behind and pop off the handle rod and disco the power lock connector. Unscrew and remove the speaker then peel off the plastic vapor/noise barrier. There's only like 3 or 4 10mm bolts holding the whole mechanism to the inside of the door. You might have to get creative with the window though, since you probably won't have any power to lower them....you have to get the bottom of them into a sweet spot so you can pop the lower glass off the connectors to free up the assembly for removal. Oh, and if that thing has the hitch wiring harness....would u mind grabbing me the little bracket that holds the plug-end to the body beside the hitch? Due to technical difficulties (read: I didn't have the correct size wrench to get the one off I grabbed and didn't feel like walking 1/2 mile back to my car to get it) I need one. Right now I just have my connector zip tied to the hitch, total hillbilly style. Lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 8, 2018 Author Share Posted May 8, 2018 I'll keep an eye out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 8, 2018 Author Share Posted May 8, 2018 no towing harness brackets Jeff a dozen or so libertys and not one even had a harness there. and only one window mechanism. seems this is a popular junkyard snag. but I did find a full set of like-new rotors/pads and some bits of trim I needed for the liberty. oh, and a set of black cloth 2door XJ buckets in great shape. sometimes the junkyard gods smile upon you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted May 9, 2018 Share Posted May 9, 2018 don't replace the regulators, replace the POS plastic part that breaks with a metal one. Factory harness is integrated into the body wiring, and does not unplug like on the XJs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted May 9, 2018 Share Posted May 9, 2018 Thanks anyway Pete.....I'll probably go back down to my yard and grab that bracket this weekend. I did think of something else (albeit a day late, LOL). Part #55360709AA is a little black plastic pad that goes on the back gate glass. It was only on certain 2002-2003 models, then the bean counters discontinued them. It allows you to close the back glass WITHOUT smearing your fingerprints all over it You used to be able to get the part from the dealer for like $8, but now you're lucky if a dealer still has any and if they do they are uber expensive. You can find a few shady looking places on the 'net that sell them, anywhere from $30 to $90, which I refuse to pay. I figure I can carefully scrape one off of a junkyard KJ, replace the adhesive and put it back on mine, hopefully not crooked. Here's an example of what I'm talking about...https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Mopar-Liftgate-Glass-Flipper-Pad-55360709AA-For-02-07-Jeep-Liberty/401462363333 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 our 06 has that pad already Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 10 hours ago, Sir Sam said: don't replace the regulators, replace the POS plastic part that breaks with a metal one. have they come down in cost? I haven't looked into that since they originally broke a few years ago. guess I should check it out again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 holy crap! I can buy a whole stock replacement for 30 bucks! way to step up your game aftermarket! now to find one that doesn't have the same plastic part in it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 and I've found stock replacement plastic bits for the rear windows for $6 each. $26 for a replacement made of metal, but only found for the drivers window so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 finally found them! 20 bucks a side gets me metal replacements. thanks Sam! https://www.ebay.com/itm/02-07-Jeep-Liberty-SUV-Set-of-Rear-Power-Window-Lift-Regulator-Metal-Repair-Kits/282796326702?fits=Make%3AJeep|Model%3ALiberty&hash=item41d7f97f2e:g:WhAAAOSwFFtapfPX&vxp=mtr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted May 9, 2018 Share Posted May 9, 2018 We need a KJ sub-sub forum, LOL. My 02 was probably one of the first 10 ever made....dumb OTIS, no window flipper thingy, etc. I'm slowly upgrading as much as I can with later model stuff. Suprisingly, when my passenger window crapped out, it wasn't the usual infamous plastic part....the motor died and the cable un-attached itself. I had to replace the whole sheebang. It was about $70 IIRC, bought it from 1A Auto (as I just did with the UCA's). I'd recommend them for buying anything OEM that you don't/can't replace from the junkyard. Incredibly fast service and good pricing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 Pat actually prefers the 02s (for reasons I can't recall) so they aren't all bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 11, 2018 Author Share Posted May 11, 2018 after installing the junkyard rotors yesterday (fixed my brake pulsing!) I got super depressed over the state of rot in the front suspension and went back today to grab the rest of the bits from that one super clean KJ. struts, knuckles, lower control arms, bearings, calipers (was tempted to grab the rack too, but figured I'd just by a refurbed). If I ever touch ANYTHING in my front suspension (I want to get the frankenlift later this year), it all has to go. the bolt heads are all rounded from rust flaking. But now I have a big box of clean goodies for later use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 You're like a kid in a rust-free candy store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 I notice that you didn't mention upper control arms.......they are a biotch to wrench on. Unless the frankenlift comes with new ones, with replaceable BJ's and you don't need them, lol. My KJ came from Chicago, per the Carfax. The body and paint are immaculate, the only spots of rust upstairs is a tiny spot on the driverside upper door hinge assembly (a piece of paint chipped off and rusted) and one little tiny spot on the inside bottom of the driverside door. I can only imagine the original owner kept it garaged during the winter. The underside, however, is a different story. All of the suspension parts are covered in a fine coating surface of rust. And the weird thing is the transmission pan has a ton of cancer on it. Not to the point of leaking, but it bugs me to no end. I'm gonna put a new pan on it when I do the 120K mile tranny service, which is already 2K miles overdue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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