rokinn Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 I'm going to do a closed to open cooling conversion and do a chemical flush as well. I put in a new closed radiator 3 years ago which now has a small leak so it's a good time to convert. I was unable to get the block drain plug out then and it now appears to be pretty well buggered for any future removal. Hard to tell really since I can't really get a good look at it. When I did just a water flush last time the coolant bottle collected quite a bit of rust particles in the bottom of it. What I need to know is how to get all of the water out of the block once I'm done flushing. I don't have compressed air. I was thinking of trying to pump it out with a pump and a hose inserted into the water pump opening into the block. Not sure how the cooling channels are configured. Is this even possible? I'd rather not remove the water pump but will if necessary, but even then there is still water left in the block. I expect I can just leave it in there and just add antifreeze with that in consideration but I would like to use distilled water. Just once I wish something were easy on this thing. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 4 minutes ago, rokinn said: I'm going to do a closed to open cooling conversion and do a chemical flush as well. I put in a new closed radiator 3 years ago which now has a small leak so it's a good time to convert. I was unable to get the block drain plug out then and it now appears to be pretty well buggered for any future removal. Hard to tell really since I can't really get a good look at it. When I did just a water flush last time the coolant bottle collected quite a bit of rust particles in the bottom of it. What I need to know is how to get all of the water out of the block once I'm done flushing. I don't have compressed air. I was thinking of trying to pump it out with a pump and a hose inserted into the water pump opening into the block. Not sure how the cooling channels are configured. Is this even possible? I'd rather not remove the water pump but will if necessary, but even then there is still water left in the block. I expect I can just leave it in there and just add antifreeze with that in consideration but I would like to use distilled water. Just once I wish something were easy on this thing. Thanks. I'll tell you this from my experience, you probably have some junk in there for sure. I had to replace my freeze plugs a Month or two ago and was kinda shocked to see what all was inside the block. That rear freeze plug behind the bellhousing was particularly bad. I pulled half a coffee cup of gritty sludge from that hole--Nickintimefilms did too. He had a video on freeze plug replacement and he shows the junk he pulled from that area. After removing all my freeze plugs, I still had to flush with a garden hose for like 30-40 minutes to get as much out as I could. The block appears to be a big open chamber and you can see the 6 cylinder walls when peeking in through the side freeze plug openings. No tight, tubular passageways...just a big open chamber where water surrounds the cylinders. I wonder if your best bet is to hook up a garden hose somewhere and remove your water pump if you can't get that drain plug from the block. Maybe just keep flooding the block with your hose. That drain plug is a beast to remove, even when it is not damaged. Heat helps. As far as getting ALL of the water out: I'm not even sure I got all of mine out despite having all the freeze plugs removed. There's lower recesses in that rear-angled engine block. Once buttoned back up, I did add good coolant and distilled water but i didn't stress too much of residual hose water being in there. I was more concerned with getting the debis flushed out of there. We're all different, but if it were me, I'd heat and work on getting that block drain plug out. You can always extract and retap to clean threads if you had too. If that is deemed too much work, then I'd probably drop (and go ahead and replace) the water pump and flush the crap out of the block as best I could, refill and then call it done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinkrun Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-KIT-Flush-Fill-Kit/dp/B000CCFY5W/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_lp_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZPFCCJ60MZ6HDG7QYDDT&dpID=41oLQqmbqSL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 This would require removal of you water pump.....but that being said.....flush with clean water as described above....now get a shop vac....not yours borrow your buddies....add a chunk of hose (garden hose/pvc.) Whatever is easy for you....stick it in the end of the shop vac hose and seal it tight with electrical or packing tape......now you can stick it into the block and crannies of the block and clean it right up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokinn Posted April 4, 2018 Author Share Posted April 4, 2018 27 minutes ago, coolwind57 said: I'll tell you this from my experience, you probably have some junk in there for sure. I had to replace my freeze plugs a Month or two ago and was kinda shocked to see what all was inside the block. That rear freeze plug behind the bellhousing was particularly bad. I pulled half a coffee cup of gritty sludge from that hole--Nickintimefilms did too. He had a video on freeze plug replacement and he shows the junk he pulled from that area. After removing all my freeze plugs, I still had to flush with a garden hose for like 30-40 minutes to get as much out as I could. The block appears to be a big open chamber and you can see the 6 cylinder walls when peeking in through the side freeze plug openings. No tight, tubular passageways...just a big open chamber where water surrounds the cylinders. I wonder if your best bet is to hook up a garden hose somewhere and remove your water pump if you can't get that drain plug from the block. Maybe just keep flooding the block with your hose. That drain plug is a beast to remove, even when it is not damaged. Heat helps. As far as getting ALL of the water out: I'm not even sure I got all of mine out despite having all the freeze plugs removed. There's lower recesses in that rear-angled engine block. Once buttoned back up, I did add good coolant and distilled water but i didn't stress too much of residual hose water being in there. I was more concerned with getting the debis flushed out of there. We're all different, but if it were me, I'd heat and work on getting that block drain plug out. You can always extract and retap to clean threads if you had too. If that is deemed too much work, then I'd probably drop (and go ahead and replace) the water pump and flush the crap out of the block as best I could, refill and then call it done. Thanks for the info. I seem to recall that big open chamber now from last time. I think the square hole is now round so extraction is likely what it will take. Just afraid I'd get half way through it and find myself stuck. I'm considering this thanks to Sinkrun's link. https://www.amazon.com/Thermocure-TC001-Coolant-System-Remover/dp/B00R74I5UY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 Photo is of our engine in customer reviews. My concern is that I'll loosen up all that "structural" rust and have to replace my freeze plugs too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokinn Posted April 4, 2018 Author Share Posted April 4, 2018 6 minutes ago, yxmj said: This would require removal of you water pump.....but that being said.....flush with clean water as described above....now get a shop vac....not yours borrow your buddies....add a chunk of hose (garden hose/pvc.) Whatever is easy for you....stick it in the end of the shop vac hose and seal it tight with electrical or packing tape......now you can stick it into the block and crannies of the block and clean it right up. My buddy is out of town next week, so, perfect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 7 minutes ago, rokinn said: My concern is that I'll loosen up all that "structural" rust and have to replace my freeze plugs too. (Not so) Funny thing that happened to me: two weeks after I converted to an open system (and THOROUGHLY flushed my cooling system in the process) I found that I now had to do a freeze plug job. 30+ years of aging components, my friend. This is the life that we as MJ owners have chosen to live. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokinn Posted April 4, 2018 Author Share Posted April 4, 2018 1 hour ago, coolwind57 said: 30+ years of aging components, my friend. This is the life that we as MJ owners have chosen to live. So NOW you tell me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 12 hours ago, rokinn said: So NOW you tell me! Yea, you're screwed. Just like the rest of us. MJ addiction is too overwhelming to overcome once it takes that first bite of you. Best to just accept it and enjoy the ride. I've spent WAY more money than I expected over the last 8-Months of ownership and I've cursed, busted knuckles and even pulled muscles and physically suffered, but man I have had SO MUCH FUN! Love my truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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