When it rains, well, crap happens. UPDATE with Pics

[NC Tom]

Lots of rain yesterday in the NC mountains. Discovered a puddle of water on my passenger side floor. Door seal, I guess. But the big problem was a thin smoke trail coming from behind the temp gauge and my heat, signals and radio died.

 

WTF?

 

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[Pete M]

that sucks check that your cowl area drains properly.  

[NC Tom]

that sucks check that your cowl area drains properly.  

Pete, is there a diagram or something to show where a drain problem could be? The carpet is only wet on the door side. Not underneath the dash.

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[Minuit]

Check the foam gaskets where the heater tubes and blower motor meet up with the dash. They're probably fossilized by now and not sealing properly. That was my problem.

[Green Mesa XJ]

I’ve had the windshield leak that it looked primarily like it was pooling on the passenger side, eventually I figured out it was the windshield after re-sealing everything on the engine bay side (evaporator & heater lines, foam insulation, blower motor.) I was surprised the caulking in the cowl area seemed ok.
Been dry in that jeep ever since the new windshield.

Unfortunately my 85 XJ is leaking last time safelite used that crappy windshield glue sold at Vato Zone, wish I complained about when I first noticed he did that, worst windshield replacement ever. It was a early morning repair and I too busy watch the job, guess he didn’t want to heat up the industrial strength stuff they normally use.


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[NC Tom]

Thanks for all the replies. I guess I have to check all the things mentioned. If the windshield is leaking, can I reseal it somehow?

 

Also, any thoughts on the smoke and no radio, heater, signals issue?

[Pete M]

if you can find the source of the water, I'd bet it'll help finding that short.   

[Green Mesa XJ]

Where did the smoke come from?

Radio?

Heater controls?

 

My parents had a car the shorted out the radio and started going down the line. Had to have the dash harness replaced. It was all oem stuff too no fancy radio splicing.

 

I think you’ll just have to start pulling and see where it burn out and how bad, if it just radio you might be able to cut n splice that, if it’s deeper in the harness probably be better to replace the dash harness cause even if you fix it you could never trust it.

You could have lost the MJ or been injured yourself.

 

I’d look at the fuse box to see if any fuses blew out instead of going Chernobyl.

Turn signal has a fuse and little round relay deal you hear click when they are on.

Heater has a fuse too but considering the draw especially these old jeeps have on the ac system and heater blower motor I’d double check that wiring before putting power to it.

Radio of course has a fuse but in kind of hoping it is isolated to that system. If it is the main harness it’s probably a melted mess. Although the way power is run to the heater control and fan it is some what separate but even then it’s all in proximity to each other if it got hot enough.

 

BTW it would be a good idea to check the headlight switch plug too, those like to meltdown as well.

 

 

Some of this reminds me of the leaks my 85 has had with the windshield since I got it every windshield would eventually leak, I think it’s part of the reason the original odometer bit the dust. Never had anything thing like this though, even with years of a leaking master cylinder on the fuse box (thanks PO).

 

Does somebody know what would happen if water got into the ducts and shorted out the blower motor resistors? Could it cause anything like this?

 

Btw if it is the windshield, still a if at this point, when they replace the windshield have then leave the trim off, or find a tool to DIY the trim, some people put a bead clear silicone around the outer edges of the windshield to keep the rain out. Dunno if this is recommended anymore but I’m going to try it on the 85 .

 

 

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[NC Tom]

Thanks for the replay. The smoke was coming up from behind the gauge cluster. Over top of the temp gauge. So, my list of non-working items: Heater/Blower, Signals, Wipers, Radio. Those I know for sure. I read that those guys are all linked together somehow. I'm still reading on that. Tomorrow will be "MJ Day".

 

I'm starting with a windshield leak test. The leak happened overnight during a hard and heavy rain storm. The truck was just sitting, so I think the windshield seal is a good place to start. From there, I'll take the bench out and look up underneath the dash for, what I don't know but, something that doesn't look right.

[Pete M]

I had a leak in my 86's windshield seal that ran along inside the a-pillar and down to the floor.  that one was a real bear to find. 

[NC Tom]

3 minutes ago, Pete M said:

I had a leak in my 86's windshield seal that ran along inside the a-pillar and down to the floor.  that one was a real bear to find. 

 

Yeah, I'm just removing the trim and resealing the whole shebang.

[NC Tom]

I had a leak in my 86's windshield seal that ran along inside the a-pillar and down to the floor.  that one was a real bear to find. 

I'll be getting under the dash in a few hours. I did the ignition accessories test and my non working things don't work at all. If it's not the ignition switch, what/where should I be looking for other than obvious burnt wire?

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[NC Tom]

My update.  I found leaks at the corners of my windshield. Added Permatex flowable silicone in the corners. Hope it works.

 

My electrical was more problematic. As you can see, I found a slight issue with a toasty ignition switch. OPINIONS: Is it safe to use these melted plugs?

 

Lastly, my high idle problem looks like a VERY dirty throttle body. Been spraying it with carb cleaner, but it's a stubborn mess. OPINIONS: Can I deep clean this thing without taking it off? If so, what should I use?

 

 

 

[gogmorgo]

You can get actual throttle body cleaner. Carb cleaner leaves lubricant behind but the throttle body cleaner dries clean, like brake cleaner, and is safe to run through the engine. The stuff I used this summer directed me to spray it in with the engine running. Your neighbours may hate you (you've got to open up the throttle to get behind the butterfly) but it's not as bad as Seafoam. 

 

As far a using the connector, well it does two things. One is locate the terminals so it'll plug into the switch properly. The other is to insulate the contacts, and prevent things from touching them. If you're satisfied it'll do those things it's probably good, but if you can get another easily enough you might want to go that route. 

[ParadiseMJ]

As far as water on the pass. floor, I had tried to seal around the windshield, the cowl before with no luck. My problem was the inner door seal strip...it's about 12-18" long and is glued to the body side of the door opening.  Whenever the truck was facing down hill, water would run down the gutter, into the door crack and (since the rubber was all warped up and there were gaps) right through the seal, and come out at the bottom of the door panel on to the floor.  When the truck was parked facing UP hill, no leak at all. 

I replaced the rubber piece, no more leaking...until the other side started doing the same thing a year later. so I just replaced that rubber piece and fixed the problem. 

 

P.S. I had pictures, but they (along with appx.200 others) were locked up on  F**king Foto F**ket .

[Pete M]

as long as you haven't deleted your account, there are add-ons for firefox and chrome that allow viewing of the pics.  plus eventually we hope to get our own script here thar will convert the pics to CC hosted pics.    

[deziped]

Had the same problm as Paradise , as it came down the front of door and ran under plastic at threshhold and then under edge of carpet and down to floor.  The leaking strips (a Chrysler after thought) that  are on upper front edge of door are available on line and simple to install. Put some glue under them to keep them from warping out of shape. If yours are not in bad shape just pop  the original pins or screws  and glue them down to stop water from running under them.