Coolwind57's

[coolwind57]

So today I stopped by the exhaust shop.  Got some pics. 

 

Now that I'm back up and running, I am concerned about my exhaust header cracking again.  I had welded the cracks on my header when I had it out of the vehicle and even welded on a gusset between the last two primaries.  Upon advice from the forum, I had a 6" flex pipe welded on my header pipe.  

 

Also, I wanted to address additional support (hangers) with the shop and I asked them to put an additional hanger at the bellhousing.  I had to ask what the tab bolted onto my bell housing was a few weeks ago because it did not appear to attach to anything.  Well, the guys welded on a clamp, giving the front of my exhaust system some additional support:

 

Additionally, a shop guy said that I was probably suppose to have one at the transmission mount.  I had no idea that there was suppose to be one there.  A PO had deleted my CAT so perhaps that's why I didn't know that anything mounted there.  Anyhow, he corrected it by installing this:

 

So, I feel much better about hitting bumps and flexing my truck now.  He charged me like $30 for parts and I think $80 labor, which I didn't feel was too bad.  I have a flux-core welder and can get by with minor welding, but I was really ok with giving this job to a pro.  I feel it paid off as I learned a thing or two from them today.

 

Funny how they used high heat paint on their welds.....I guess to make some customers feel better about the rust that will begin to show up within an hour or two I suppose.  

[coolwind57]

Picked up some Dakota 40-20-40 seats today at the JY.  Got some cleaning to do, but the fabric is in good shape.  I noticed that there are two different seat heights on the late 90s- early 2000 model Dakotas.  Most had seats that were shorter than these.  Hope I didn't make a mistake, as I picked these because I liked the taller height.  

 

They came from a 1999 with extended cab.  

 

 

Anxious to install them, but it'll probably be a few weeks.  I'm kinda waiting to hear more from GrayWolf with him and his buddy producing the custom seat mounts for these seats.  Dude, they look SOOOO much more comfortable than my stock MJ bench. 

[coolwind57]

Ok, well I've decided to mount these seats myself.  I've got a flux core welder, so I just couldn't stand having these awesome seats sitting around NOT in my truck so I bit the bullet.  The goal is to mount them using factory mounting studs.  I think i can use my original bench seat brackets so the first thing was to cut them from my bench seat and mount them on the floor just to see how i can match them up with the Dakota seats.  So here's what they look like re-installed:

 

[coolwind57]

i bought a piece of 3/16" (I think) angle iron on the way home from work last night.  I then placed my seats inside the cab and cut a piece of angle iron to see how I could get the front mount positioned.  I chose the hardest to work with first:  The driver's front bracket.  That tunnel sticks out on the driver's side and it really pushes the limits on placement of the Dakota inner rail.  Man, what a pain.  I was able to tack weld once I found the sweet spot.  I then removed and began to weld in earnest until I suddenly ran out of wire for my flux welder.  Dang.  End of evening until I can hit it again tonight.

[coolwind57]

So before I did the weld above, I did "dry fit" my seat and found that I didn't like the height that it would create if I left the two buckets and jump seat bolted together.  So scratch to plan to keep them bolted together.   The thing is--Dakota seats like to be placed high.  The higher you place this driver's seat, the more clearance you'll have from that goofy protrusion of the tunnel.  

 

I found the best combination of minimizing seat height and decent slider track placement was when I had my angle iron practically sitting on the tunnel protrusion.   If you go back and look at my pic with just the bench seat mounts (minus the bench) secured to the floor, you'll see that that driver's side front bracket is practically sitting on the tunnel as well.   I did have to give up one half of my front Dakota mounting tab, however.  in this pic, you can see where I had to trim 1/2 of the tab (in YELLOW).  You can kinda see the other half of the tab that I'm welding on to the angle iron (WHITE).   I also had to cut my angle iron at an angle to better accommodate the protrusion of the tunnel (RED).   

 

So far, I've been able to weld on attachments to the lower glide rail,  not the rail itself.  that's my plan as I continue to mount these seats.

 

[coolwind57]

[coolwind57]

Ok, so here's how my custom driver's side seat brackets came out:

 

1.  White arrows:  Show that I used the stock Dakota track/rail attachments.  After modifying them slightly, I simply welded onto them insead of removing them and welding or bolting my metal directly onto the Dakota tracks.

2.  Blue circles show my original MJ brackets.  Welds look horrible, but hey it's a cheapo flux core welder I have to work with.  I got good penetration and the welds are strong.  Just looks like hell.

3.  I chose to use 3/4 tubing to support the rear, as I felt 1" tubing might be too high.  Red arrow shows that I had to stack another piece of 3/4 tubing on one end to get the height of the seat's outboard side correct.  

 

It's now bolted into my MJ and I LOVE it.  Very comfortable.  Dakota seats certainly fit tight in there.  My door panel touches the seat fabric, but just barely.  

 

Going out this morning to work on the passenger side next.  

[coolwind57]

Just now, coolwind57 said:

Ok, so here's how my custom driver's side seat brackets came out:

 

1.  White arrows:  Show that I used the stock Dakota track/rail attachments.  After modifying them slightly, I simply welded onto them insead of removing them and welding or bolting my metal directly onto the Dakota tracks.

2.  Blue circles show my original MJ brackets.  Welds look horrible, but hey it's a cheapo flux core welder I have to work with.  I got good penetration and the welds are strong.  Just looks like hell.

3.  I chose to use 3/4 tubing to support the rear, as I felt 1" tubing might be too high.  Red arrow shows that I had to stack another piece of 3/4 tubing on one end to get the height of the seat's outboard side correct.  

 

It's now bolted into my MJ and I LOVE it.  Very comfortable.  Dakota seats certainly fit tight in there.  My door panel touches the seat fabric, but just barely.  

 

Going out this morning to work on the passenger side next.  

 

Oops, that bottom-most arrow shows the 3/16" thick angle iron used for the front of the seat.

 

[coolwind57]

Got it all done today.  It was quite the chore, but I'm SO glad I did for sure.  These Dakota seats rock.  So comfortable.  Here's my AFTER pic:

 

 

So, here's what I found out during this job:

 

1.  I initially wanted a jump seat/console the same height as the seats.  This would allow for kind of a bench seat if the console is swung up.  Well, you're either going to have to lift the buckets way up (in my opinion, too much) or cut into the jump seat--big time.  It's probably possible, but not worth my time.  As I began thinking more about it, I'm going to use the console 99% of the time.  Maybe put a baby carrier seat in if my wife gets pregnant.  Or maybe haul a kid, but that jump seat is much too narrow for an adult butt anyow.  The height of the jump seat as it is installed on the tunnel is too high for an adult over 5', 8", I'd say.  

 

2.   I wanted to install the console/jumpseat even with the front of the buckets "for looks".  But if you do that, then you won't be able to use the super cool pull-out drink holder tray.  I placed mine far enough back for cup holder access, and it works just fine for my resting elbow.  Another thing about this being higher than the buckets that I worried about:  Will your right elbow sit too high when rested on it since the buckets are lower.  Answer is no.  I am completely comfortable.  In fact, I love it.  Can't see how I did without an arm rest back when I had my bench.  It's at a great height for me, awesome comfortable.  

 

3.  I bought some 2" flat metal and bolted lengths up under the jumper seat at the factory mounting holes where the buckets normally bolt onto.  I placed the jumper, then bent the metal to form around the tunnel and then bolted through it using galvanized 3/8" bolts/washers/nuts.  Plenty of room up under your tunnel if your bolts are 2" in length.

 

4.  I could care less that my interior colors don't match.  The gray seats actually have some blue and red specks in them, that don't show so much in the picture but the red pops out when you view in person.  Again, not a big deal for me.  Heck, my truck is OD green (Monstaliner bed coating) with a red interior.  I'm more about practical.  Looks fine by me.

 

5.  Passenger seat was easier to fab a mount....but not by much. If  you're going to do this upgrade in a similar manner as I then you're going to have cut, weld, check fitment. Cut, weld, check fitment. Takes a lot of time.

 

6.  I did final fit and then decided to lift the entire bucket brackets off the floor by about 3/8" after I built up my seat brackets.  This allowed closer fitment to the tunnel on both sides--there's a odd bulge on the driver's side of the tunnel due to the transfer case underneither.  I did this because it seemed like I was too close to the door and not centered behind the steering wheel.  I had some pieces of used metal left over that I placed under the seat brackets to accomplish this small lift. 

 

7.  I can still use my door-mounted arm rest, which indicates that my height is pretty close to what I had from the factory seat.  Lifting the seats as much as GrayWolf did with his brackets looks like it would make this arm rest too low for use.  Check out his thread for a different Dakota seat mount option if you hadn't already.  His seats match the height of the jump seat, but I just didn't want to go this route as I started working this project.  There's pros and cons to each method, I'm sure. 

 

8.  Ceiling height is great.  I'm 5, 11" and I weigh 228lbs.  I can place my fist above my head as I'm seated.  This is good for hat-wearers like me.  And I LOVE the adjustability that I now have over my MJ bench.  And I also love that I can lean back and my whole head is cushioned behind me.  These seats are nice and tall.  

 

 

[Lthompson741]

On March 30, 2018 at 8:07 PM, coolwind57 said:

Got it all done today.  It was quite the chore, but I'm SO glad I did for sure.  These Dakota seats rock.  So comfortable.  Here's my AFTER pic:

 

 

So, here's what I found out during this job:

 

1.  I initially wanted a jump seat/console the same height as the seats.  This would allow for kind of a bench seat if the console is swung up.  Well, you're either going to have to lift the buckets way up (in my opinion, too much) or cut into the jump seat--big time.  It's probably possible, but not worth my time.  As I began thinking more about it, I'm going to use the console 99% of the time.  Maybe put a baby carrier seat in if my wife gets pregnant.  Or maybe haul a kid, but that jump seat is much too narrow for an adult butt anyow.  The height of the jump seat as it is installed on the tunnel is too high for an adult over 5', 8", I'd say.  

 

2.   I wanted to install the console/jumpseat even with the front of the buckets "for looks".  But if you do that, then you won't be able to use the super cool pull-out drink holder tray.  I placed mine far enough back for cup holder access, and it works just fine for my resting elbow.  Another thing about this being higher than the buckets that I worried about:  Will your right elbow sit too high when rested on it since the buckets are lower.  Answer is no.  I am completely comfortable.  In fact, I love it.  Can't see how I did without an arm rest back when I had my bench.  It's at a great height for me, awesome comfortable.  

 

3.  I bought some 2" flat metal and bolted lengths up under the jumper seat at the factory mounting holes where the buckets normally bolt onto.  I placed the jumper, then bent the metal to form around the tunnel and then bolted through it using galvanized 3/8" bolts/washers/nuts.  Plenty of room up under your tunnel if your bolts are 2" in length.

 

4.  I could care less that my interior colors don't match.  The gray seats actually have some blue and red specks in them, that don't show so much in the picture but the red pops out when you view in person.  Again, not a big deal for me.  Heck, my truck is OD green (Monstaliner bed coating) with a red interior.  I'm more about practical.  Looks fine by me.

 

5.  Passenger seat was easier to fab a mount....but not by much. If  you're going to do this upgrade in a similar manner as I then you're going to have cut, weld, check fitment. Cut, weld, check fitment. Takes a lot of time.

 

6.  I did final fit and then decided to lift the entire bucket brackets off the floor by about 3/8" after I built up my seat brackets.  This allowed closer fitment to the tunnel on both sides--there's a odd bulge on the driver's side of the tunnel due to the transfer case underneither.  I did this because it seemed like I was too close to the door and not centered behind the steering wheel.  I had some pieces of used metal left over that I placed under the seat brackets to accomplish this small lift. 

 

7.  I can still use my door-mounted arm rest, which indicates that my height is pretty close to what I had from the factory seat.  Lifting the seats as much as GrayWolf did with his brackets looks like it would make this arm rest too low for use.  Check out his thread for a different Dakota seat mount option if you hadn't already.  His seats match the height of the jump seat, but I just didn't want to go this route as I started working this project.  There's pros and cons to each method, I'm sure. 

 

8.  Ceiling height is great.  I'm 5, 11" and I weigh 228lbs.  I can place my fist above my head as I'm seated.  This is good for hat-wearers like me.  And I LOVE the adjustability that I now have over my MJ bench.  And I also love that I can lean back and my whole head is cushioned behind me.  These seats are nice and tall.  

 

 

Looks good, it doesn't seem very hard just time consuming.   I think you have sold me on just fabbing brackets.   My one question for you, is how is your head room when your sitting in the truck?  I'm 6"2' and am worried about hitting my head.  I've read every thread now and some people say it's ok, others say it's a issue.    I wish you were closer so I could sit in yours.

[coolwind57]

9 hours ago, Lthompson741 said:

Looks good, it doesn't seem very hard just time consuming.   I think you have sold me on just fabbing brackets.   My one question for you, is how is your head room when your sitting in the truck?  I'm 6"2' and am worried about hitting my head.  I've read every thread now and some people say it's ok, others say it's a issue.    I wish you were closer so I could sit in yours.

 

I can take my fist, turn it sideways and get it between my big fat head and the headliner.  I think there is slightly more head room than before.  My legs seem more comfortable now too.  Changes the angle my lower legs come down or something.  Just seems like there's more leg room.  One of the biggest things is that my upper body feels more securely in place.  

 

I'm 5' 11" and I weigh about 228lbs.   I really can't believe how comfortable I am driving my truck now.  My wife even likes sitting in the truck now and she HATES my truck.  

 

You can make adjustments as you go along so surely you can arrive at where you want to be.  Let me know if I can assist you, pics, etc.

[Lthompson741]

2 hours ago, coolwind57 said:

 

I can take my fist, turn it sideways and get it between my big fat head and the headliner.  I think there is slightly more head room than before.  My legs seem more comfortable now too.  Changes the angle my lower legs come down or something.  Just seems like there's more leg room.  One of the biggest things is that my upper body feels more securely in place.  

 

I'm 5' 11" and I weigh about 228lbs.   I really can't believe how comfortable I am driving my truck now.  My wife even likes sitting in the truck now and she HATES my truck.  

 

You can make adjustments as you go along so surely you can arrive at where you want to be.  Let me know if I can assist you, pics, etc.

Thank you for the offer.   I think you have sold me on this.     Especially the leg room department.  I know with the stock bench it feels like i'm sitting on the floor with no angle of my legs at all.  I'll reach out when I get started.  I think i'm gonna start hitting pick and pulls this weekend and see what I can come up with seat wise.

[coolwind57]

Here's a very successful "mod" or fix I did a Month or so after I bought ol' Warrior:  Window/Smoker's window weatherstripping for the verticle U-channel.  Check out the pics:

 

Looks like it is 3/8", doubled.  This is cheap, basic rubber weather strip that I purchased at Home Depot.  I removed my crumbling old weather strip just past where the window goes inside the door cavity.  I didn't remove the old weatherstrip from below the door sweep (inside the door cavity) because it wasn't brittle and desintegrating like above.  I just tore/cut it just below where the horizontal sweep is.  

 

This size of Home Depot weatherstripping fit perfectly inside all three sides of the U-channel and the adhesive has stood up with no problems for 8-Months now.  Just spit the double row into a single off of the roll.  Although I picked up brown (My truck was camoflaged at the time, so it didn't matter to me), I'm sure they sell this in black too.  In the last picture, you can see the exterior and interior piece.  Obviously the third piece is covered by the edge of the glass. 

 

After firmly pressing all 3 pieces in place, just take it slow and easy when you row up your window the first couple of times.  If it catches, it'll roll up on you and make you say bad words.  You might press on some talc or dry film lube or something if it sticks to your glass too much and wants to delaminate, but I didn't have this problem at all.  Really holds the window very well, with no more rattling or whistling wind noises.  One of the best, easiest fixes I've ever done and I didn't go have to source rare and expensive aftermarket parts.  Total cost was maybe $4 if I remember right.

 

[coolwind57]

Back in early September 2017, I found a digital clock in a Cherokee at the junk yard.  I pulled it and paid $4 for it.  As I opened up my MJ's dash expecting to have to splice wiring to get it to operate, I was elated to find the unused connector just behind the dash!  SCORE!  PnP, baby!

 

I think the digital clock was pulled from an 88 or 90 XJ, I can't remember for sure.  But it is the one noted for putting out pathetic dim lighting.  But, I'm happy.  I popped a new bulb in the back and slapped her all back together and I have a factory clock now. 

 

Next time you're at the yard, look around those Xjs for one if your MJ doesn't yet have one.

[coolwind57]

Got my Sasquatch rocker switch for my driving lights installed.  I laugh every time I look down at them.  hilarious

 

 

[coolwind57]

Ok, in a pinch I decided to use a plastic heater hose barbed fitting when I re-routed my heater hoses a few Months back.  i know what you're going to say.  My intention was to replace it with brass as soon as I sourced a 3/4" to 5/8: barb.  The plastic one you see in the picture was purchased at Autozone and was made for automotive use.  

 

Well of course, intentions to replace this temporary solution was soon delayed and forgotten till I noticed a slow leak yesterday.  Interesting what the part looks like after removal.  in the pic you can see the crack.  The hose clamps also deformed the plastic--likely made worse by the heated coolant.   I could have had a catastrophic leak, so I consider myself lucky.  By the way, I replaced with brass already.

 

SO:  Don't use plastic here you fool!   

[coolwind57]

Last night, I installed a new distributor and using Cruiser54's method, I indexed it.  If you're an amateur mechanic like me and you've never done this before then this my be the write-up for you.  So here's some pics to show how an newby went about this job:

 

1.  I began by disconnecting my NEG cable on my battery.  I then removed my aux fan.  Take the two bolts out along the radiator shroud area, pull the connector and then lift the fan assembly straight up out of it's bottom slots.  This'll give you much needed room to manipulate that crank shaft.

 

2.  Position your crankshaft/pistons at Top Dead Center (TDC):  I had not done this before...ever.  I read up as much as I could find on the internet and eventually it all sunk in and I figured out what I needed to do.  I placed a 1/2" drive ratchet with a 3/4" socket onto the crankshaft/damper bolt.  Remove your #1 spark plug.  Number one is the one closest to the nose of your truck.  With a flashlight, peer in there to analyze.  You may or may not see the top of the piston.  Remember what you see.

 

I crawled under the front of my truck and pulled back my lower engine rubber cover, exposing my damper pulley.  I rotated the damper CLOCKWISE (I heard on the internet that you should go clockwise) until I found a tiny little notch on the backside of the damper.  I then scratched a line across the nice wide flat part of the FRONT of the damper.  This is an area that you can actually see when you stand back up and look down into your engine bay.  You can't see that tiny notch in this position, that's why we're marking the front of the damper while you're under there.  Sorry no pics taken during this part.

 

Rotate the damper pulley until your mark approaches the ZERO mark on this little tag plate situated just behind your damper pulley.  It's got notches on it.  Look for the number "zero."  As you manipulate the damper with your ratchet, started looking for your etched line.  Once near the "zero" position, you place the little notch on the back side of the damper pulley directly under the ZERO mark on your tag.  The notch will become visible when you have it exactly under the ZERO. 

 

Now go grab a flashlight and peer into the #1 cylinder to see if you see the top of the piston.  If not, then you'll have to rotate the damper pulley another rotation to achieve TDC--the highest point of the piston during it's compression stroke.  I read that some guys put their finger over the spark plug hole to feel pressure, but the flasklight method worked fine for me.  I was able to see the piston top just fine.

 

3.  I then removed my spark plug wires from the distributor cap.  By the way, cylinder numbers are in sequential order: 1 through 6, from the front to the back of the engine.  no need to remove the remaining wires from their spark plugs.  I removed the distributor cap and cut in a window, exposing the #1 terminal (where the spark plug wire connects...the one that runs to the #1 cylinder in your engine).  I marked mine with my Daughter's nail polish just to try to get a more exact location of my terminal post.  It's a bit harder to see it once you have it reinstalled.  

 

I reinstalled the cap just for kicks to see the orientation of my old rotor with the exposed #1 terminal.  That horizontal brass piece you see to the left of my mark is the rotor tip.  Don 't pay too much mind to what you're seeing here, as the camera angle makes it look like it is spot-on.  In actuality, the rotor tip was a bit past the #1 terminal post more that the pic shows.   I just couldn't get my camera at the right angle.  I then removed the modified cap. 

 

 

4.  Paranoid I was going to screw this up, I took shots of my old distributor before removing.  The intent was to record the position if the distributor housing in relation to other objects in the area, such as the motor mount.  Also, notice that my rotor's positioning was around 5-o'clock (as you're standing at the passenger fender) after I set TDC.

5.  Next, I pulled my old distributor after removing the 1/2" sized hold-down bolt.  As you lift the distributor housing out of the engine, you'll notice that it rotates counter-clockwise as gears disengage.  I think I remember the rotor position was around 3 o'clock by the time the distributor released from the engine.

 

6.  Clean the distributor hole.  Take a long flat screwdriver and position the oil pump slot to around 11 o'clock position.  My pictures didn't take real well, but you'll easily see the slot that I'm referring to when you see it with your own eyeballs.  I used a little RTV to "glue" my new distributor gasket in place.

 

7. Using my wife's Amazon employee's discount, I picked up this distributor for $44.29 2-day shipped: 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BDY205Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 

 

Next step was to cut 1/2" off of my new distributor's mounting tab.  One half inch equaled pretty-much where the bolt hole's inner edge was on the housing tab.  I used an angle grinder, followed by a file.  This diagram below shows 1/2' well past (and deeper) into the mounting tab.  But on my distributor, the inner-most edge of the mounting bolt hole is where my 1/2" measurement terminated.  

 

 

Clean up debris from your distributor.  I also marked the heck out of it, putting cylinder number locations on the cap as well as the housing itself.  Again, I was addressing paranoia that plagued me.

 

8.  Ok time for the install.  I grabbed the new distributor (with cap off) and positioned the rotor at 4-0'clock.  This automatically positioned the lower shaft slotted flat tip at around 11 & 4 o'clock.  After confirming that the mounting tab was in the general area of the mounting bolt hole on the engine, I set the distributor shaft into the hole and successfully engaged the oil pump (that I had previously positioned at 11 o'clock).  As I lightly pushed it in place, the gears engaged and my rotor rotated around the 5 o'clock position as the housing made contact with the gasket.

 

9.  I installed the modified distributor cap with the cut-out window and twisted the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the rotor is just barely leaving proximity of the #1 terminal post of the cap.   

 

10.  I installed my mounting bolt, but it became clear that I was going to need a washer to hold this sucker down securely.  Cutting off that much of the mounting tab left too little material remaining to properly secure the distributor to the engine.  No big deal, I had a washer laying around.  Notice it just happen to have a little yellow paint on it.  Double check for the correct position of the rotor to the #1 cap terminal as you secure your bolt.  I cranked hard on my bolt, deforming my washer a bit in the process.  I wanted that sucker tight.  

 

 

11.  Pull of your modified cap and place your new cap on.  Plug your connector back in and reinstall your #1 spark plug and all of your spark plug wires.

 

12.  Reinstall your auxiliary fan and your NEG cable on your battery.  Say a prayer, then fire that mutha up.

 

At this point in the game, I've only driven it to work this morning, but I swear the engine does seem to run smoother and quieter. 

 

[jeeppapa]

Got my Sasquatch rocker switch for my driving lights installed.  I laugh every time I look down at them.  hilarious

 
 

That’s perfect


88 Pioneer 4x4 auto LB D30/D44
88 Eliminator 4x2 5sp SB D35

[coolwind57]

Check out the pics.  Looks like I found my "slow coolant leak".

 

i had recently overheated on the highway and replaced my thermostat and water pump, as it was weeping.  After a "field install" of my pump and thermostat, I  experienced this catastrophic radiator failure two hours later.  It was a full-out explosion, even pushing the corner or my grill out of the nose of the truck.  

 

After reading spotty reviews on the all-aluminum eBay radiators, I decided to go with the Spectra OE-type (Amazon, $84.98).  I didn't want to fight fitment issues and I was happy to find that the Spectra practically jumped right in, with tranny coolant lines and sensor lining up and fitting in just right---the way it's suppose to be.

 

I also found that I was running a 16-lbs pressure cap and according to the parts computer at Autozone, I was suppose to have a 13-lbs on (for a 1991 model---keep in mind that mine's an 89 with a closed-to-open conversion system featuring a top radiator hose water filler/cap).  Got that corrected.  

 

Looks like Spectra made a change to their design to allow for more expansion.

[coolwind57]

Latest upgrade:  Bored throttle body (TB) from Meanlemons.  He took my 52mm stock Renix TB and opened her up to 60mm.  As of this writing, I just got her installed and took for a quick 3-4 mile test run before bed and she purred like a kitten.  I need to check my auto kick-down adjustment in the morning.  I'm anxious to see what kind of difference I may notice.  I"m not so much a mudder or performance nut, but I would like to have more balls going up the big I-64 hill on my way home from work every day.  

 

Check out the visual difference.  Impressive!

[coolwind57]

installed Taylor Thundervolt 8.2mm spark plug wires today.  I had 7mm wires installed when I first bought my MJ, but they were problematic.  A time or two I had to manipulate them because #2 spark was jumping.  It was time to spring a little and buy these.  They came well-recommended by MJers here on the site.  

 

[coolwind57]

i replaced my water pump over the weekend.  The one I replaced was actually working fine, but the metal heater core pipe had began leaking at the area where it threads into the pump.  I removed the pump and the metal pipe just broke off within.  Attempting to remove the remaining pipe inside the threads, I completely botched the threads.  I considered JB Welding a new pipe in, but I didn't want to have to go through the extended process of doing a water pump removal again any time soon.  Seemed more like a "fix' than a permanent solution.

 

So I bought a new water pump and used 2 brass 3/8" nipples, with a coupler between them.  Black iron is hard to find in 3/8", but brass is more available. 

 

This multi-piece set up allow for a easier installation.  I installed the lower piece of brass onto the pump prior to pump install.  I then installed the upper piece with coupler.  Then topped it off with a 90-degree angle and a brass barbed fitting , which eliminated the angled rubber hose tip I previously had.  

 

Many ways to skin a cat, but this is how I chose to do mine.

 

[coolwind57]

So, I'm upgrading to 1997+ wiper arms.  I'm doing this while I do the all-to-familiar wiper bushing replacement.  Just for those who are thinking about this upgrade, I thought I'd try to show the difference between the 1996 (and below) arms and the 97+. 

 

The most obvious difference is the J-hook end versus the older style side pin.  Going from side pin to J-hook should provide more stability during wiper operation-keeping noise down and perhaps help prevent chattering and overall better wiper operation.

 

The other thing to note, although it is not very clear in the photos, is the fact that the 97+ arm extends upright higher and then dips down steeply as the length terminates to the J-hook.  This implys to me that the downward force of the blade would be increased over the older, more straight and level style.

 

Anyhow, my truck is in the garage out of the rain and I've got my wood stove fired up.  Time to hit it.

 

[rosco11]

So, I'm upgrading to 1997+ wiper arms.  I'm doing this while I do the all-to-familiar wiper bushing replacement.  Just for those who are thinking about this upgrade, I thought I'd try to show the difference between the 1996 (and below) arms and the 97+. 
 
The most obvious difference is the J-hook end versus the older style side pin.  Going from side pin to J-hook should provide more stability during wiper operation-keeping noise down and perhaps help prevent chattering and overall better wiper operation.
 
The other thing to note, although it is not very clear in the photos, is the fact that the 97+ arm extends upright higher and then dips down steeply as the length terminates to the J-hook.  This implys to me that the downward force of the blade would be increased over the older, more straight and level style.
 
Anyhow, my truck is in the garage out of the rain and I've got my wood stove fired up.  Time to hit it.


 

Sweet! To connect them, do the originals pop off and the 97+ simply pop back in the same way or does a mod have to be done?

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[coolwind57]

28 minutes ago, rosco11 said:

Sweet! To connect them, do the originals pop off and the 97+ simply pop back in the same way or does a mod have to be done?

It's plug and play, bro.  

 

The mounting end is identical.  Its just the wiper blade half that is bent differently, the half terminating at the J-hook.  

 

I bought my arms from eBay. 

 

I just now sanded them down a bit and shot on some spraycan truckliner black.  Taking motor out now.  I think I'll do my own writeup even though some others have covered this here and there.