Tranny problem, hope I didn't screw it up

[mdmonroe]

Ok, here's my situation. I'm working up the courage to do a clutch change on my '88 Comanche. It has the BA 10/5 transmission. I took the shift lever out and not thinking, I shifted it up into first gear (I think) to get better access to a bolt. Well, now I can't seem to get the thing back in. I fit the lever in the only way it seems it will fit. It will move back and forth, kind of feels like neutral, but won't move up or down at all. I hit the starter and it moves forward, so it is in gear. I have a feeling it's in first, but not totally sure.

 

So at this point, I have to admit I'm quite nervous about the whole thing. I'm afraid to try and drop the tranny. Would it being in gear cause a problem? Even if it's not a problem I still need to get the shifter back in. How can I do that? Is there another way to get it into neutral?

 

Any help would be fantastic... and very much needed!

 

Thanks

Dean

[gogmorgo]

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/ba10-5-won-t-shift-after-removing-reinstalling-shifter-885822/

 

I stumbled upon this in searching to find out whether or not the BA10/5 had a similar engagement point as my Lada's. Why wouldn't two junky transmissions be the similar? Lol. But that's the only other trans I've got experience with in a situation like this.

 

The three shift rails have a slot in them that the bottom of the lever sticks into. In neutral, all three slots are lined up, which is why you can push the gear lever left or right, but when you engage a gear it pushes the selected rail either forwards or back and the slots are no longer lined up and they don't let you push the shift lever left or right any more. If you pull the lever out while in gear, and then stick it back in, you're moving it between the other two rails, but you can't move them because you've already got a gear engaged, and you can't push it into the slot for the gear you're in because it's not line up. What you need to do is get the shift rails lined back up in neutral.

 

My first strategy would be trying to get the gear lever to slot into its spot in the first gear rail. You'll need to do this while you're inserting the lever. Hold it in more or less the first gear position as you're sliding it in. If you have your foot on the clutch while you're doing this (Make sure your truck will NOT roll - rear wheels in the air, chocked wheels, parking brake, etc) you may even be able wiggle it back out of first gear while you're doing that, and then be able to put the shift lever back in normally. The key here is to slide the tip of the gear lever back where it's supposed to be.

 

Failing that, you might be able to get things pushed back in place (i.e. putting it back into neutral) with a long screwdriver poked down the shifter hole (again with your foot on the clutch) so you can stick the shifter back in normally in neutral. Remember that the gear lever reverses the action that your hand does, so what the transmission internals see when you engage first gear is right and back, not left and forwards, so adjust your pokings accordingly.

I don't know whether it's a wise idea or not on the BA-10/5, but on my Niva I pull the whole shifter tower off the trans because it's easier and far less likely to drop hardware into the transmission. It also allows a much better view of what's going on inside the trans than what the pics I've seen down the pukegoat's shifter hole show.

 

 

Or you can use this opportunity to upgrade to an AX15, but that's probably a lot more work than you're interested in right now.

[mdmonroe]

That makes sense, however there is one little glitch. I have no clutch. I think the slave cylinder crapped out on me, so when I hit the clutch pedal, nothing happens. Could I go ahead and drop the tranny, replace the clutch and associated parts, put it all back together and then deal with that? Would it being in gear cause any problems with removal/ installation?

 

Honestly I've had no problems with the transmission at all, and I'm over 200,000 miles and going. This issue is strictly self inflicted. It usually doesn't get driven very hard, I use it for work hauling lumber and stuff. I have to say though, even with this weak transmission the thing has done very well for me. I've had some heavy stuff in the back a few times... back end dragging (well, not literally) but she pulls right along. A real little workhorse!

[phatton]

You can remove the trans when its in gear.  Once the trans is out, it will be easier to get it in neutral.  While the trans is out check your flywheel - if it's rough - remove it and have it resurfaced.  Then replace the clutch, pressure plate, and slave cylinder and reinstall (make sure the trans is in neutral). 

[gogmorgo]

If you're completely removing the trans, it might make it even easier to fix. You'll have more access to the top end of it instead of poking down through the hole in the trans tunnel, for one.

[mdmonroe]

Thanks for the help, I shall give it a try. :yes:

[tugalo]

Check your clutch pedal.  Mine bottomed out when i tried to shift and nothing happened.  the Clutch pedal had broken the weld that holds it to the pivoting mounting bolt.  May be that your slave cylinder is okay.

[87MJTIM]

Check your clutch pedal.  Mine bottomed out when i tried to shift and nothing happened.  the Clutch pedal had broken the weld that holds it to the pivoting mounting bolt.  May be that your slave cylinder is okay.

 

The OP has a BA10.  It doesn't have a pivot ball.  The slave and throw out bearing are one unit.

[mdmonroe]

Actually, before it went out it was losing clutch fluid fairly badly. Every few days I'd have to add some fluid. So I knew something was going bad. I checked around and couldn't see any leaking fluid around the master cylinder or anywhere along the line. So I figured it must be in the slave cylinder. When I finally went out I still couldn't see any obvious problems. The master was empty so I felt I had to go with the slave. I thought that since it has 200k miles, while I'm in there I might as well replace the whole kit. I don't think there is any issue with the pedal.

[Minuit]

The master cylinder can leak inside the cab too, so you may want to check your fusebox area if you haven't already.