a bum with money Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 gentleman I just replaced my exhaust manifold (cracked) and motor mount ( the rubber was in 2 pieces). and I ordered a set of 746 injectors. my problem is that when I pulled the fuel rail pressure and return lines off, 1 or 2 o-rings came out the pressure side (I think). I found one and I can't find the other. my first question is how many o-rings are in the pressure side as well as the return side? and is there a tech site or photos that I can go to, and can you still get these particular o-rings? I don't want to have any leaks! I would like to replace them. UPDATE: I found the second dropped 0-ring. (boy! how far the can roll.) 1988 manche 2wd 4.0 aw4 thanx for your imput Bryce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a bum with money Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 while I'm on the subject, I need a good used throttle body. mine the butterfly set screw is frozen as well as one of the tps screws (broke off). I really don't want to go to the junkyard where there probably a plenty. so if any of you have an extra let me know. I live in portland oregon, shoot me a price. bryce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 O-rings can be bought at any hardware store, just take your old ones in to compare and make sure they can handle fuel. As far as how many, there should be 1 for sure and then at the back of the female connector there is a rubber seat where the fuel rail male fitting will seat on. Idk if this is an o-ring or not because I've never taken it out. You can also buy the female connectors at the autoparts store. I got a new one at Napa recently and they come with the O-rings in them already. I would replace just the o-ring if you can tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big66440 Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Crown sells the replacement kits as well as Mopar ( Part number 83502745 ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Crown sells the replacement kits as well as Mopar ( Part number 83502745 ) ^^^ This. Yes you can buy O-rings at any hardware store, auto Zone, CVS or even Walgreens. These O-rings are specific. You COULD engineer your own set up but here's how it goes: The fuel lines are sealed with a pair of O-rings AND a plastic spacer (of the same size). It is written somewhere that you need to change the O-rings every time you undo to fuel lines. The o-ring type set-up is also used on the tranny disconnects, but the tranny is a 3/8" line and the fuel is a 5/16" so they're not interchangeable. You CAN go to Auto Zone and get the plastic clips and the O-rings...but not the spacer...and you need the spacer. Then you' have to size up the clips and notice that they don't have them for Jeep...they have them for Ford, Chevy and Chrysler...but not Jeep. So, it would be really a lot easier and probably cheaper in the long run to just buy the connector parts as mentioned above. Do NOT drive it until you fix it. You'll spew fuel all over your engine. Then you can write back here to figure out how they go on. Believe me, the first time I did this...I learned a lot :rolleyes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 Lots of info in this thread http://comancheclub.com/topic/52642-removing-fuel-rail-88-40/ Gene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a bum with money Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 great info! I found the injector seals and rail seal kit at napa. I'm still a little unclear as to rail o-ring placement. and when I do get it back together, you can bet I'll be checking for leaks after I push her out of the garage. and with the only the key on! if I run into trouble I'll be back. bryce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 Get a little capful of gas, soak the O-rings in it for a few minutes. If the plastic clip is still intact (on the male end), and hopefully the spacer...which you NEED, slide one o-ring on the male end, Slide the spacer right behind it. Then slide the second o-ring behind that. I've always put some Vaseline on the newly installed o-ring, spacer, o-ring assembly. Not a lot, just enough to cover. Then, shine a flash light in to the female end (the fuel line) and make sure there isn't an old o-ring stuck in there or any dirt, debris, particles etc. You can use a pick or some tweezers to remove stuff if you find anything...then slide the female end on and push firmly until it *clicks*. Make sure it clicks and the ears on the plastic part spread. Just to re-cap, ring, spacer, ring on male end with some Vaseline, push into female end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a bum with money Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 OK, starting to get the picture. When I look in the female end (stop laughing) on the fuel rail, I still see a spacer and a ring behind that. Your saying carefuly remove them and then put the new rings and spacer on the male ends, ring spacer ring.Then attach the fuel lines. the I guess that would also apply on the return side as well? sorry for being so detailed, but I really want to get this right. I would love to see some pics My plastic clips are still good. Bryce UPDATE: after inspection based on paradise's help. It looks like the spacer is a captive part of the two female parts of the fuel (pressure side and the return side). I also still have a ring behind those 2 spacers. I'm thinking that if replace the inner rings, and clean out any dirt, Then put the second ring on the male ends. Apply a lttle Vaseline on the Male ends, I will have the desired ring,spacer,ring w/lube and it will be ready to assemble and lock in place. Doe'so this sound Right? It makes sense to me. I need some conformation On this before I procede Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Those are not captive...they do come out. If you see ring and spacer in there, and you plan on putting another ring, spacer, ring in there it won't work. They do get shoved all the way up when you push the male end in...just one set of ring, spacer, ring, Anything more won't fit, and it won't seal. You might want to look up there again and see what you can pry out with a dental pick or similar tool (like a paint can opener) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a bum with money Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 I appreciate the feedback paradise. I guess I'm a little nervous about removing the spacer due to the fact that somewhere I read I that there not made any more. with that said, we wouldn't then be able correctly put it back together as you pointed out: ring, spacer, ring on both male ends w/lube and insert till it locks in place. I'm way more comfortable with this part of the job now. but I would add that this type of mechanism seems inherently problematic, not to mention somewhat dangerous. I'm going to do a follow up on how it went later for future do DIYrs! I really do appreciate the purpose of a site like this one. :bowdown: bryce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 I think it's a weird system too. One little broken o-ring and you're screwed. I carry extra O-rings just for the "quik disconnects". I did away with the disconnects for my transmission lines and just went with cutting the steel line, and a compression fitting on the steel end and a hose barb on the other. Never leaks. Someday I'll do the same with the fuel lines, although the fuel pressure is considerably higher than the tranny fluid pressure. But just to be able to "un-bolt" the fuel lines and replace them with regular fuel line would be nice. I know that several guys have done that, but I just replaced the clips and O-rings last summer and they're holding tight. Glad to know you got it done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a bum with money Posted April 6, 2017 Author Share Posted April 6, 2017 I finished the my 4.0 cracked ex manifold, injector (746) upgrade project, and replaced the 2 piece motor mount. I can't believe how quiet it is now, and the smoother idle. Still need to make some tweeks, which I wanted to ask...... Assuming every thing is good tune up wise, can one just adjust the TPS till you get the desired idle? W/O a volt Meter? Isn't that all that your looking for in the TPS Adjustment? ALSO! One thing I would highly recommend when you have the fuel rail out. And that is to at least check the fuel pressure regulater o-ring. make sure you know when the last one was put in! When I first tested the system for gas leaks, it leaked like crazy out that joint. When I removed the regulater, the o-ring had shrunk and was flattened around the outside ( I think it was the original, 128k!). I just happened to have a extra injector o-ring and that took care of the leak. I'm assuming it was the same size o-Ring! Don't take any short cuts when doing this upgrade! I wanted to thank everyone for the great Advise! Couldn't have done it without your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronManche87 Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 Hi! Sorry to thread jack x.x but on the female line in the back of the engine, I pulled out a deal that was just behind the lip and I was wondering if it was just another o ring or if it was different??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronManche87 Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 False alarm guys!! I'm just an idiot!! Also got my first experience with that plastic seat/seal lol thought it was a lip in the metal when trying to get that rear o ring and that deal came out too! Luckily didnt lose it! But thanks for the info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a bum with money Posted May 7, 2017 Author Share Posted May 7, 2017 False alarm guys!! I'm just an idiot!! Also got my first experience with that plastic seat/seal lol thought it was a lip in the metal when trying to get that rear o ring and that deal came out too! Luckily didnt lose it! But thanks for the info!Don't overlook the o-ring where the fuel pressure regulator attaches to the fuel rail. A lot easier to replace the o-ring with the fuel rail out. Bryce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronManche87 Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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