mj charles Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Just bought a 1988 Comanche base with the 4.0L manual to go play in the snow and mud. was recommended to me to upgrade the diffs and wondering what to put in. also want to put a 4 or 4.5" lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Determine what tire size you want first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mj charles Posted February 9, 2017 Author Share Posted February 9, 2017 Would like to get up to a 33 inch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Would like to get up to a 33 inch 31 spline Ford 8.8 with 4.10s and a LIMITED SLIP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desbennett004 Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 ^^×2, if you can't find a front ratio to match it, the 29 spline Chrysler 8.25 out of a 97+ is a good option too. You will probably only find it in 3.55:1 though. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWoods Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 If you are planning on 33's and primary use being in the mud and snow, you would probably be happiest with 4.56's. I would not go any higher then 4.10's. It is really dependent on what you would like to spend. search through naxja classifieds and you might be able to locate a set of used 4.10 or 4.56 axles in your area. They are uncommon but some mj's with 2.5 motor and auto trans has 4.10's out of the factory but you are gonna be stuck with a dana 35 rear axle if you went that route. I would say you are best off to find a dana 44 rear, followed by a ford 8.8 if you were to want rear disc brakes. Like I said already, it's really dependent on what your looking to spend. Ideally I would run a minimum of 4.5 inches of lift to have 33's, you will need to install longer control arms, ideally adjustable control arms, to locate your front wheels centered in the wheel wells and properly adjust your driveshaft pitch. You will also need a drop pitman arm, an adjustable track bar with a drop bracket, I would install a steering box brace as well as a 1 ton steering setup if it were me. As far as the rear lift goes, either a set of lift leaf springs and upgraded shackles or convert to spring over axle. This being said, you are gonna need to install a slip yoke eliminator on your transfer case rear output as well as an extended drive shaft on the rear(go with an advanced adapters setup with a tom woods driveshaft) With 4.5+ inches of lift you will also have to replace your brake lines with braided, flexable lines as well as a new set of shocks all the way around. The sky is the limit, questions? Just search around or ask people, lots of knowledge here. Don't waste your money a junk lift kit and end up unhappy and buying a 2nd setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 No need for a SYE for a standard SOA on the MJ. Personally if I was swapping in a rear and needed a lift SOA is how I go. Oh wait, that is how I went. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWoods Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 What do you mean, no need for a slip yoke when going spring over? I don't know how saggy your leaf springs may be in your truck, but with good springs you are moving your shaft outward in the ballpark of 2+ inches You are only going to have 1" of shaft in the tail housing without a sye. Drive line vibration is a definite possibility at this point, let alone the possibility of slipping the shaft out of the housing if you were flexed and pulling a rear axle against an object (rock comes to mind). There is no chance I would ever lift 4+ inches and not install an sye. May just be my opinion, but I feel as though I tend to do things that will save me problems in the future and possible broken parts.I'm not sure if you've ever seen the damage caused by a drive shaft coming loose at highway speeds? Might even roll you over! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 I stand by my statement. I actually off-road and street drive mine and have without issue for several years as have many others. You have your opinion I have my experience. To each their own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desbennett004 Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Depends on what rear you put in also. The Chrysler 8.25 has a 1" longer snout than a Dana. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Depends on what rear you put in also. The Chrysler 8.25 has a 1" longer snout than a Dana. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk Dana what? 35? I believe the D44 is a little longer than the D35 - probably the same length as the 8.25". D60 is a fair whack longer, 4" or so. I run a SYE, and I'm at a similar height (SOA with bagged 2wd springs). Do I need to? No. I wanted it because IMHO the stock output shaft in the 231 is rather weak, and this way if I damage the rear driveshaft I can drive without it. Plus I actually had a driveshaft hanging up on the wall that I gambled would fit (which worked out). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desbennett004 Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Yes, Dana 35. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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