Waggy 44

[Darren]

if i'm at 7.5-8.5" of lift will the knuckles have to be turned to get the correct pinion angle? and if the angle is lined up right it being low pinion will i have binding issues at full drop?

[pingpong]

I think the answer is yes on the turning of the knuckles, but I am not 100% on that, and it is a strong possibility that it will bind at full drop if you have any amopunt of flex with that much lift and a LP axle

[tjbliley]

The knuckles need to stay at the angle they are at ccurrently. the axle tubes need to be turned up to the t-case. this is a big undertaking. it means rebuilding the entire axle. if you just turn the knuckles then the alignment will be off like a grocery cart with a loose wheel.

[DirtyComanche]

The knuckles need to stay at the angle they are at ccurrently. the axle tubes need to be turned up to the t-case. this is a big undertaking. it means rebuilding the entire axle. if you just turn the knuckles then the alignment will be off like a grocery cart with a loose wheel.

 

 

Umm. You're missing that they're turning the knuckles back and the housing foreward. So the knuckles and caster will remain at hte same angle, but the pinion will point sky-high. If a guy doesn't see street he can run zero caster though...

 

 

Anyways, you'll bind the double cardon joint at the tcase with a bunch of flex. I don't even have my pinion turned up much, if any (at 8.5"ish), and I don't bind the u-joint at the pinion. Just the ones at the tcase. Which you can grind out to get 5* more. If your suspension doesn't droop/flex great, I wouldn't even worry.

[Darren]

i'll be running tnt long-arms, (they're in the mail) so i will have "a bunch" of flex. but is turning the knuckles on a low pinion waggy 44 worth it or should i just pay to have a HP 44 narrowed to waggy width?

[DirtyComanche]

Are you paying to have the knuckles turned? 'Cause if you can turn knuckles you can narrow it.

 

 

 

Anyways, I hate my LPD44 for various reasons. The driveshaft bind is on the list, but really not a huge deal. The main deal is my driveshaft sits on rocks and gets obliderated, same with the pinion yoke.

 

As to how much better the TNT long arms flex... Well, radius arms over-droop anyways, so it'll probably bind the shaft. I betcha could bind it with a HP axle. I mean, the pinion height change is what, 3.5"-4"? Spread over a driveshaft length of say, 26" working? The stock DC joints will flex to 30*, and can be ground to 35*. So, you're talking about 7-9* more in static driveshaft angle with a LP axle. Which is substantial. And ballpark.

 

Find somebody that is running them with a LP axle (naxja) and ask how it went.

[DirtyComanche]

As comparison, mine droops this far and is still 'safe'. I damaged the joint in my other shaft when I lost my limit straps (er, shocks) and went beyond that).

 

 

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If you don't think it'll droop farther than that, you'll probably be okay. And you can cheat and take about 1-2* out of the static drivetran angle by raising the tcase (ever hear me bish about tcase drops?). Grind the DC joint too and you'll be fine. I think.

[Darren]

thanks dude, you now talked me out of the waggy 44. I guess its time to start my slow HP 44 build.