Dana 30 and NV3550 questions

[jerpderp]

Hey all,

 

I disassembled the Dana 30 that I'm going to use for my 4x4 swap. I changed out the axle seals, and am going to replace the U joints and ball joints since everything is taken apart. I did have a couple questions since this is my first solid front axle:

 

The axle tubes are pretty nasty, I'm worried that when I go to reinstall the shafts, the snout/splines are gonna drag in the rust/goo/grit and make my diff unhappy. Should I clean em out? And how should I do that? I'm gonna pressure wash the whole thing in a few days.

 

Passenger:

 

Driver:

 

2nd axle question:

 

The spindles have some pretty deep chipping where the brake pads slide. I was just gonna smooth out the area. Is this a suitable fix?

 

 

 

 

[jerpderp]

I also ordered an NV3550 from a junkyard, should be here this week sometime. However while looking at the pictures the junkyard sent me, the output shaft doesn't look like its flush with the rear housing. That makes me wonder if my transfer case input shaft will mesh with that. I did some research at the Advanced Adaptors and Novak Adapt websites, and both NV3550 info pages say the output is flush. BUT Novak has an input shaft page and my T case has a short shaft and says the NV needs a long shaft. My T case is a 231 from a 90 XJ that had an AX15. So I probably need to buy another t case, or buy some parts for mine and rebuild it.. Does anyone know what shaft NV3550s take?

 

[Marine1Texas]

This is common rust build up after so many years when water has gotten in to the system. However the housing that the shafts run thru have no oil that is why the large amount of rust build up. The seals on each side the tube keep any rust from passing thru. If you want to clean up with a thick wire brush and cleaner you can do so. I did this with a dana 44 in front and back. it lasted about 3 or 4 years before the rust started coming back. I just left it this last time, since the rust will stay there but not get deeper. Never had problems it messing up the seals, just make sure your shafts are in good shape. 

[HOrnbrod]

The brake caliper guide looks pretty bad in your pic. Just smoothing it out might work, but the better (correct) fix would be to run a bead weld along the caliper riding surface to build it up uniformly, then grind it down smooth so the caliper won't bind. Might as well do it right, bring them to a welding shop if you have to.............

[Eagle]

The brake caliper run guide looks pretty bad in your pic. Just smoothing it out might work, but the better (correct) fix would be to run a bead weld along the caliper riding surface to build it up uniformly, then grind it down smooth so the caliper won't bind. Might as well do it right, bring them to a welding shop if you have to.............

 

Agreed. If this isn't fixed correctly you run the risk of the calipers binding up.

[HOrnbrod]

This is one of the reasons why I like the rear Ford Explorer disk brakes. As seen in the below pic, they use a stainless steel replaceable channel that snaps over the caliper riding surface to prevent wear on the bracket. When you buy a new set of pads, these channels come with them. I suppose you could fab a similar setup for the front MJ brakes too.

 

[DirtyComanche]

As long as you're careful you should be able to get the axleshafts in with a minimal amount of crap stuck to them.

 

I always put a little light grease on the splines and seal surface as they will slide through the seal easier and be less likely to tear it.

[jerpderp]

Thanks guys. I won't worry about cleaning the tubes, and since the spindles are coming off anyway, I'll get em welded up. Brakes are nice to have. ;)

 

 

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