AMC86Kid Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 i was wondering if anybody knew what side the rubber part in the M.C. should be facing Option 1: Does it go this way ? Option 2: Or does it go this way ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted December 12, 2016 Author Share Posted December 12, 2016 option 2 is how it came in the box but option one is how my old one was that i took off the vehicle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marine1Texas Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 rubber facing down! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 It should be like photo #2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted December 12, 2016 Author Share Posted December 12, 2016 so you guys are saying that it should be option 2 ok thanks i put it on there like that after i pumped all the air out of the lines and the M.C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted December 12, 2016 Author Share Posted December 12, 2016 ok so i put on the new brake parts and i happy that i go the stupid leak to stop but now when i drive the truck up and down the road it won't stop the vehicle i have to pull the parking break to get the vehicle to stop can anyone tell me what i did wrong ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marine1Texas Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 is it soft? is it hard? you have to give us more info. did you bleed the lines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 is it soft? is it hard? you have to give us more info. did you bleed the lines?He means the brake pedal. Does it go to the floor (or almost) really easy? Or does it feel stiff when you step on it? Brakes have to be bled of air when you work on them because air is compressible. YouTube "How to bleed brakes". It's pretty much the same on any common car, truck, or suv. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted December 12, 2016 Author Share Posted December 12, 2016 ok so here's what i did i had no clamp to bench bleed the MC so i just bolted the MC to the booster and connected rubber tubes to back feed the fluid back into the mc i did that until the air bubbles stopped took about 30 minutes then i removed the rubber tubes and reconnected the metal brake fluid lines with a flare wrench and reconnect the vacuum tube hose to the booster then i pumped the brakes like 20 times fully started the vehicle and tested them out when i press them i get a medium amount of resistance but i can push it all the way down to the floor board it seems like there is not enough hydraulic pressure to move the brake pads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marine1Texas Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 means you have air in the lines. you need to bleed the system. you can not getaway with just bleeding the master cylinder. Once you open any hydraulic line you will get air in a system, requiring you to bleed the air out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted December 13, 2016 Author Share Posted December 13, 2016 ok thats what i figured so i took the driver wheel off and tried un bolting the bleeder screw and it didn't budge at all i cleaned if off with a wire brush then sprayed it with WD40 and all i managed doing was stripping it :( so tomorrow i will try to weld a flat piece of metal to it and see if i can hammer it off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 ok so here's what i did i had no clamp to bench bleed the MC so i just bolted the MC to the booster and connected rubber tubes to back feed the fluid back into the mc i did that until the air bubbles stopped took about 30 minutes then i removed the rubber tubes and reconnected the metal brake fluid lines with a flare wrench and reconnect the vacuum tube hose to the booster then i pumped the brakes like 20 times fully started the vehicle and tested them out when i press them i get a medium amount of resistance but i can push it all the way down to the floor board it seems like there is not enough hydraulic pressure to move the brake pads You didn't bleed the lines to the wheels. Just pumping the peddle doesn't do anything for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 ok thats what i figured so i took the driver wheel off and tried un bolting the bleeder screw and it didn't budge at all i cleaned if off with a wire brush then sprayed it with WD40 and all i managed doing was sripping it :( so tomorrow i will try to weld a flat piece of metal to it and see if i can hammer it off Careful welding to brakes. Welding fluid is pretty flammable stuff. I've had success in the past removing the wheel and carefully heating the bleeder screw (just the screw, not the caliper in disc or brake cylinder on drum) then removing it very slowly with vise grips. After it breaks free let it cool. You'll need new bleed screws if you do this though. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 ok thats what i figured so i took the driver wheel off and tried un bolting the bleeder screw and it didn't budge at all i cleaned if off with a wire brush then sprayed it with WD40 and all i managed doing was sripping it :( so tomorrow i will try to weld a flat piece of metal to it and see if i can hammer it off Don't weld. Use vise-grips. And go easy -- if you break off the outer part, then you'll have to buy a new caliper (or wheel cylinder, depending on which end you're working on). In fact, wheel cylinders aren't expensive. Considering the age of your truck, it might not be a bad idea to just buy new wheel cylinders and start fresh. And don't use WD-40 for penetrating oil. That's not what it's for, and it doesn't work. Use PB Blaster, or (even better) Kroil -- if you can find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desbennett004 Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 When you bleed brakes you usually start from the line furthest from the master cylinder, which would be the rear passenger, then the rear driver, then the front passenger, lastly the front driver. At least, that's how I've always done it. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desbennett004 Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 ok thats what i figured so i took the driver wheel off and tried un bolting the bleeder screw and it didn't budge at all i cleaned if off with a wire brush then sprayed it with WD40 and all i managed doing was sripping it :( so tomorrow i will try to weld a flat piece of metal to it and see if i can hammer it off Don't weld. Use vise-grips. And go easy -- if you break off the outer part, then you'll have to buy a new caliper (or wheel cylinder, depending on which end you're working on). In fact, wheel cylinders aren't expensive. Considering the age of your truck, it might not be a bad idea to just buy new wheel cylinders and start fresh. And don't use WD-40 for penetrating oil. That's not what it's for, and it doesn't work. Use PB Blaster, or (even better) Kroil -- if you can find it. I have had good luck using a 50/50 mix of transmission fluid and paint thinners in a spray bottle to loosen seized bolts. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted December 13, 2016 Author Share Posted December 13, 2016 i have been trying to use vise grips and i can't get it to budge at all i think I'm going to just heat up the bolt and that should pry it free Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 i have been trying to use vise grips and i can't get it to budge at all i think I'm going to just heat up the bolt and that should pry it free Are you working on a caliper or a wheel cylinder? Keep in mind that the bleeder screws are brass, so they are easier to mess up. At least for the wheel cylinders, I think you shouldn't waste any time trying to free up stuck bleeders. Just buy new wheel cylinders and install them. Your master cylinder was so bad it was leaking, so I would expect the wheel cylinders to be in equally bad condition. Rear wheel cylinders are $10 from Autozone -- new. Their remanufactured front calipers are $21.99, and they have a lifetime warranty. You decide how much effort you want to put into something that probably needs to be replaced anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted December 13, 2016 Author Share Posted December 13, 2016 i may have to buy new calipers hopefully i don't because the original ones work and they say AMC on them so i want to keep then because they are original Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted December 13, 2016 Author Share Posted December 13, 2016 Good News guys i got the bleeder screw out i found out that if you allow plenty of heat and give it hard hits with a hammer the vibrations will break it free and allow you to turn it now i just got to go buy new bleeder screws Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 i may have to buy new calipers hopefully i don't because the original ones work and they say AMC on them so i want to keep then because they are originalYou can buy rebuild kits or new ones and transfer the seals. If you're careful :D Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 i may have to buy new calipers hopefully i don't because the original ones work and they say AMC on them so i want to keep then because they are originalYou can buy rebuild kits or new ones and transfer the seals. If you're careful :D Rebuild kits won't help much if he snaps off a bleeder screw in the caliper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 Good News guys i got the bleeder screw out i found out that if you allow plenty of heat and give it hard hits with a hammer the vibrations will break it free and allow you to turn it now i just got to go buy new bleeder screws Excellent. Thanks for the update. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 i may have to buy new calipers hopefully i don't because the original ones work and they say AMC on them so i want to keep then because they are originalYou can buy rebuild kits or new ones and transfer the seals. If you're careful :D Rebuild kits won't help much if he snaps off a bleeder screw in the caliper. That's what an easy-out is for. Or weld a nut onto the broken bleeder... I've broken more than a few off and never trashed a caliper because of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted December 14, 2016 Author Share Posted December 14, 2016 i have took the truck for a test drive and the brakes now stop the vehicle so now i will move on to the leaky tranny and then hopefully the truck won't leak no more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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