Rokhound Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 What is the best truck to try and find I no that it will have to be Ford. But what year and so on I am not buying right now but if something would fall in to my lap for the right price what would be the best set up and price?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 78-79 are my favorites. Mostly because they are old, cheap, and I am the most certain that the F-350 of those years will have the right axles. In the 80s and newer Ford experimented with the Dana 50 or funky wheel patterns and all sorts of craziness with their big trucks. Make absolute certain that you know what to look for when you find a truck that looks tempting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockhardzj Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 78 or 79 F250/350 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockhardzj Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 Look at the axle "structure lobes" one of them will have "60" on it, see it, and you KNOW you have a 60. It will be one of the top ones that goes from the diff housing to the tube inlet. I forget if it's the right or left one. Sometimes you have to pick at it with a screwdriver to scale a little rust/dirt/grime off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1999MJ Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 the 78 and 79's are the best bet if your going to stay full width. The pumpkin has the correct offset you need which leaves you enough room to mount a spring bucket of some sort on the driver side. the new ones have a diferent off set. It's more to the driver side and there's about 2 or 3" of axle tub to work with. If you plan on narrowing it then the newer 80's style is the one you want because you only have to shorten one side (passenger side) Hope this info helps out a bit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokhound Posted July 9, 2007 Author Share Posted July 9, 2007 Make absolute certain that you know what to look for when you find a truck that looks tempting. Ok so here is the check list 1. 78 or 79 F-350 2. Make sure that the structure lobes have a 60 on it 3. What should I add to this list? the 78 and 79's are the best bet if your going to stay full width. Hope this info helps out a bit My plan is to stay full width Also a couple more questions? 1. What price should I try to stay in I see these thing go for mad money?? 2. What gear option should I look for I would like to get 4.10 or lower is this an option at the factory?? 3. What else should I get with the axle the steering stuff as well?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockhardzj Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 A front 60 averages $850 as far as I have seen, however, I just scored my buddy a set of 60's out of a 79 f350 for $200 total. Make a goal between $650-750. for the front, but try to keep everything at a combined price of $1000 or less. The rears are like $150-200 easy, and found in all sorts of 1 ton trucks, and they are all low pinion, as far as I know. When looking at the front 60, make sure it has a high pinion, driver drop, and also 4 bolts on top of the knuckles to tell you it's kingpin. If you want a Dana 70 or 80 rear, my buddy parts bread trucks all the time, and he usually tosses the axles, but if you want one, I think he said like $100 for the complete axle. The gearing I think is usually 3.73, but I could be wrong, either way, most people I've heard of swap it out for their needs. Get the steering stuff for while your building it, so you can at least roll it around, drive it up and down the road, and work the bugs out of the axles themselves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 3.55s and 4.10s seem to be the common ratios. Try to get as much of the axle's extras as you can, but keep in mine that if you go with a 30 year old axle, most of it will need replacing anyways. Budget for that too. Also, ask yourself if you really truely need a front 60. They are wicked heavy and huge. And you can probably build a nice HP Dana 44 with alloy crap in it for cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokhound Posted July 9, 2007 Author Share Posted July 9, 2007 3.55s and 4.10s seem to be the common ratios. Try to get as much of the axle's extras as you can, but keep in mine that if you go with a 30 year old axle, most of it will need replacing anyways. Budget for that too. Also, ask yourself if you really truely need a front 60. They are wicked heavy and huge. And you can probably build a nice HP Dana 44 with alloy crap in it for cheaper. Your right Pete I don’t think I need a D60 up front but you hear all the guy that have built there rigs with the 44’s that they would have done it the first time. :dunno: So I thought I would just see what the deal with the D60 just in case I find one. :popcorn: I am looking at an 80’s Bronco with the 44’s if that is a good deal then that is the way I will go but I am not ready to take that next step. I am just gather info as I go to see what will be my next build up. Hell the truck has set for 10 month in the shop I have never drove this truck since I bought it. So my first plan is to get it done and wheeling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 80s Broncos will have the TTB front axle. Nothing good there. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 It depends what a guy wants to do... D44 parts are about the same price as D60 parts. Well, maybe 20% more. But for the strength difference they're a better deal. But the D60 can have a bad initial purchasing price. However, if you aren't planning to run large tires, a D44 offers better ground clearance. And is cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 I struggled with this decision myself. I spent good money to have my axles delivered, but I got complete useable axles out of a running rig. Heck the brakes were new as well as the rotors :D Sometimes you have to look for complete rigs. Ex-militaryrigs can be had for under 1500 most times, and they came with 4.56's and a rear locker. Plus a lot of desirable parts that you can sell. Watch out for the hidden expenses that has been pointed out... U-bolts for these beas are not cheap. Niether are brake parts. Lastly watch out for the Bronco's and f-100/f150 trucks for the front d-44, after 76 the radias arm wedges were cast on the axle. Before that they were welded, and can be taken off and resold to the ford freeks. (by the way I have a set of these pre 76 axles if interested) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokhound Posted July 11, 2007 Author Share Posted July 11, 2007 T and T rocks guys I now that must how you guys won’t buy this. Found this thread on Pirate and thought i would share this with you guys. Here is a link to the tread and some pic. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... 710&page=6 [/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 Yeah he is a local guy.. lives over in Hampton or at the Beach not sure which. I was going to call them to see if they are going to affer it in a passenger side drop :eek: It would definately speed me up :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 I'm sure they could. TNT seems pretty cool about doing stuff like that. if not, call JCR. I bet Brian could make one for ya. time is money eh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 time is money eh? That is the truth. Sometimes it is cheaper and easier to let some one else do all the figuring and you reap the benifits :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now