Rebuilding a 2wd front axle.

[Knucklehead97]

Hey guys. Managed to grab the 98 2wd front axle off of the guy I got the 8.25 from. Only 50$! I just tore it down to see what all I think I need to buy for it and I wanted to get ya'lls opinions and get some answers for some questions.

 

Ball joints will be replaced with Spicer joints

 

All new MOOG V8 ZJ steering. What are the part numbers for this? And is the drag link compatible or will I need to get an MJ one?

 

The steering stabilizer from the 98 is still perfect. Stiff but moves smoothly. Just going to clean it up and roll with it.

 

I have a set of WJ upper and lower control arms. They work with stock height MJ's when you trim the shock mount and all, right?

 

Replacing at least the axle side upper control arm bushings. I can't find just the individual bushings for sale. Are the bushings for the axle the same as the control arms? I've found kits that service one upper control arm and was just going to get them and use both bushings on the axle if that would work.

 

Brakes off of the 98 seem good. I plan to have the rotors turned and the pads still have life on them. Should I go ahead and rebuild the calipers while they're off of the truck? Also the person I bought the axle from cut the rubber line going to the caliper. The one on my MJ looks different but will it work?

 

The hubs don't spin multiple times when I spin them. They spin smooth and don't have any play in them though so I don't plan to replace them yet.

 

I'm either going to paint everything or just clean it all up and paint a few parts that definitely need it. Here is the dirtiness of the axle though.

Think it will clean up well or should I go ahead and plan to paint it? What would you guys use to clean it properly? Trying to save money on this as much as possible as I also have to build the 8.25 as well. And get my body panels painted.

 

Thanks as always!

[ParadiseMJ]

Think it will clean up well or should I go ahead and plan to paint it? What would you guys use to clean it properly?

 

 

Doesn't look bad to me, but I'd do both.  Clean it, paint it.  I use Purple Power, steel wool, rustoleum primer, rustoleum black gloss (easier to hose off later)

[Knucklehead97]

What would you do for prepping for the primer? Just the steel wool? If I painted I was thinking I should flap disk it all down to bare metal. I don't know much as far as paint prep, though.

[Minuit]

The UCA bushings in the axle are readily available. Moog K3128. It says it services one control arm, but in your case it'll service one axle too. The bushings are the same as the ones in the control arms, just pressed into the axle instead of the control arm. Here's a tip for you: a 4.0 main bearing cap is exactly the right size and shape to wedge into the control arm mount to stop the mount from folding over when you press the bushings.

[Minuit]

More stuff that I just forgot about. New post so it won't get ninja'd.

 

The stock lower control arm bushings are 66.5mm wide at both ends. The WJ control arm bushings are 72.5 mm at the axle (round) end and 79 mm at the frame (oval) end. You'll need to trim the bushing sleeves down to make them fit. You could be a dork like me and measure, or you could just trim a little bit off at a time until they fit. For full articulation you'll want to trim the shock mount a little bit too. The WJ UCAs need a bit more work, I believe you have to take off some of the frame end UCA mount. I just went with the stock replacements because I didn't want to cut anything. I noticed an improvement in handling and comfort with the WJ LCAs as well as a drastic improvement in caster angle, although my original lower control arm bushings were very badly worn.

[Knucklehead97]

More stuff that I just forgot about. New post so it won't get ninja'd.

 

The stock lower control arm bushings are 66.5mm wide at both ends. The WJ control arm bushings are 72.5 mm at the axle (round) end and 79 mm at the frame (oval) end. You'll need to trim the bushing sleeves down to make them fit. You could be a dork like me and measure, or you could just trim a little bit off at a time until they fit. For full articulation you'll want to trim the shock mount a little bit too. The WJ UCAs need a bit more work, I believe you have to take off some of the frame end UCA mount. I just went with the stock replacements because I didn't want to cut anything. I noticed an improvement in handling and comfort with the WJ LCAs as well as a drastic improvement in caster angle, although my original lower control arm bushings were very badly worn.

I highly appreciate all of this! Especially the bushing measurments. I'm trying to make this as bolt in as possible so I will probably measure and trim beforehand like you did. I've got to decide if I want to replace the bushing in the WJ arms or not. They have a few cracks in them but seem to be in good enough condition to run for a bit. And if I had a main bearing cap I would definitely use that tip. Sadly I don't. I'm going to have to figure something else out so I don't bend the mounts.

[Knucklehead97]

And for the WJ uppers I believe that you have to trim the bushing and then take off a small sliver of metal on the frame. Not the actual control arm bucket, though, I don't think. Unless you're lifted a certain amount. I mainly was wondering if WJ arms were too long for a stock setup as I have heard they correct some angle well on a 2" lift (caster angle maybe?)

[Minuit]

Here's what my old bushings looked like. These reduced the caster angle enough to make the truck very, very darty at 60+ mph and pretty much unalignable. That was immediately fixed after I put the new control arms in even without an alignment.

 

 

In my view the newest used WJ control arm you can get is 12 years old now and probably has more than 100k on it so the bushings are pretty much spent. If I was going to go through all the work I would spring for new control arms. I'm not sure if you can replace the oval bushings or not.

 

 

Photographic proof of the proper width to cut the bushings to. I'd hate to believe some hack's measurements on the internet and ruin my control arms by cutting them down too small :D

[Minuit]

Here is where I got that information from. I absolutely refuse to cut on the '91 so they were out of the question for me. WJ arms are exactly stock length.

[HOrnbrod]

 Here's a tip for you: a 4.0 main bearing cap is exactly the right size and shape to wedge into the control arm mount to stop the mount from folding over when you press the bushings.

 

NOW you tell me.   :fs1:   I had to hack up a pipe coupling to fab the spacer  - PITA.

[Knucklehead97]

 

 

Here's a tip for you: a 4.0 main bearing cap is exactly the right size and shape to wedge into the control arm mount to stop the mount from folding over when you press the bushings.

NOW you tell me. :fs1: I had to hack up a pipe coupling to fab the spacer - PITA.

that's why before hacking you should try random engine parts that most people don't have laying around :D

[Strokermjcomanche]

If I was going to go through all the work I would spring for new control arms. I'm not sure if you can replace the oval bushings or not.

 

 

http://m.ebay.com/itm/ARM-BUSHING-FOR-FRONT-LATERAL-CONTROL-ARM-OEM-52088217AB-/281477109102?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE

[Minuit]

Well, guess I've already learned something today. Wonder if the design makes them any more difficult to replace than a standard round bushing?

 

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

[Knucklehead97]

Are the Moog K3128 bushings the right ones for the WJ upper control arms bushing as well? I compared sizes and researched and they seem to be but I'm not sure as other people have said that K1366 is the part number for the upper arms bushing. The k3128 is much cheaper is why I ask.