Knucklehead97 Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 Got back from my camping trip with my church this morning. Pulled into the church parking lot to drop a couple kids off that wanted to ride in the "cool Jeep" on the way back home. Noticed that my 35 is dripping. Seems to be coming from the front seal (where the driveshaft goes in) The Jeep has always had a roar from the rear so I figured my rear axle was having troubles. What's the damage, guys? How hard is it to change? And if it's tough to change, is there any other option to give myself a little time till I can get my Explorer axle found and built? And lastly if I have to build this Explorer axle ASAP then what years am I looking for to get the right axle with 4.10 gears (guess I'll have to go ahead and swap to 31's...) and what is a full parts list/modification list to get the axle installed? Thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 there's always the option of simply adding more oil until you're finished with the axle. :thumbsup: been there, done that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 there's always the option of simply adding more oil until you're finished with the axle. :thumbsup: been there, done that. This. If the axle is on its last legs anyway, not worth putting a pinion seal in. Rear ends hold a surprising amount of oil anyway, so a small drip probably won't hurt anything any more than it already is. For what it's worth both D35s in my possession roar like hell. Can't wait to get rid of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted July 10, 2016 Author Share Posted July 10, 2016 Awesome at least I can bandaid it for a little bit! Guess I should stop doing donuts in the churt pits/loosegravel parking lots around town, eh? :D what fluid should I be putting in it? Its been a while since I messed with the rear axle of my other Jeep and I can't remember what weight it was. 2wd AW4 Dana 35 if it matters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 Buy the cheapest 80W90 or similar gear oil you can find. You might want to grab the yoke and see if it has any play in it. If you can wiggle it side/side and up/down, the pinion bearings are shot or the preload has come off them, and the axle might well explode in really short order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted July 10, 2016 Author Share Posted July 10, 2016 Buy the cheapest 80W90 or similar gear oil you can find. You might want to grab the yoke and see if it has any play in it. If you can wiggle it side/side and up/down, the pinion bearings are shot or the preload has come off them, and the axle might well explode in really short order. I'll make sure to check that! My only issue I'm finding with the 8.8 swap is that I don't have a welder, know how to weld, or no anyone that knows how to weld. So I would have to get the axle and figure out the angles and then take it to a shop? Even crappier this Jeep is the only thing I have that can haul an axle so I have to figure out how I would even get it to a shop :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 You're going to leave it 2wd, and without lift? Because it can be figured out without installing the axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 yeah, matching the angle of the current pads doesn't involve having the new axle under the truck. :thumbsup: and all muffler shops have a guy that knows how to weld. :D it's about as easy a weld-job as there can be. getting the perches correct left-to-right has proven a challenge for some out in internetland , so measure thrice. :yes: (and make sure you're measuring from the right places as the diff isn't quite centered in an 8.8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted July 11, 2016 Author Share Posted July 11, 2016 Great! I am planning to stay 2wd with 2" of lift max. And I do know a good welder at a muffler shop (going to have him install my Super 44 when it comes in). Few more questions. 1, where would you measure from to get the alignment?. 2, I'm planning to order the Ruff Stuff 8.8 swap kit. Upon research I have realized that either you have to get your driveshaft shortened or you have to mount the springs in the furthest back hole on the Ruff Stuff perches (pushes the axle back about 1") is there anything wrong with pushing the axle back an inch? I'm sure more questions will come as time goes by haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 you should probably put those questions in a separate thread :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 Without an SYE you just want the pinion pointing 1-2* up. Set the pinion to that with an angle finder, just plunk it on the flange straight up and down, measure side-side of the brake backing plates/caliper mounts (just be consistent with what you do, do not measure anything off the center section or pinion as it is offset), set the perches level with the angle finder. Perches are 42" center-center, IIRC. I recommend buying a digital angle finder. If you take it to a welding/fab shop they should have no issues doing all of this stuff with minimal instruction though, and they should have adequate tools to measure this stuff. And I can't comment if you'll have an issue moving the axle back. Gut feeling is it won't matter, the tire might not be perfectly centered in the wheelwell though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted July 16, 2016 Author Share Posted July 16, 2016 I'm going to talk to a 4×4 fab shop about how much it would cost to line it all up for me before I try to do it myself. Checked the driveshaft and it wiggles none so at least the bearings are good. Filled the diff up with about 2/3rds of a quart. It's been leaking awhile I think. But I shall post another topic asking questions about the complete 8.8 swap when I get a chance. Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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