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Coolant hose/heater hose help needed 2.5 Renix


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Hello Everyone,

 

I am getting the Comanche back together. New head installed, lots of other new parts. I'm not sure the old colant hoses were ever routed or hooked up right. I am installing all new hoses, coolant, heater, vacuum, everything pretty much.

 

Can someone post a picture or two of their 2.5 Renix (mine is an '86) engine compartment showing the hose routing? I have searched this forum, NAXJA, and Google, and have not found what I need. In particular, I really want to see the hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the intake manifold, and the order the hoses go back on the heater valve.

 

Should I get rid of the heater valve? I have read through a few threads, consensus is I should. I am hesitant to have the heater core putting out heat 100% of the time, but if the door on it is decent, it shouldn't be too bad. We have 4 seasons with lows in the -10's and highs in the 100+, and everything in between. (today it was 45 driving to work, it's 85 now)

 

I'd really appreciate the help.

 

David

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It looks like you are well on your way, and doing a fine job at it! Very clean work.

 

I will post an engine bay picture of my 86, but I don't think it will answer your hose routing question. When I bought this truck, the previous owner had used green garden hose for the heater hoses, so I am not sure how the factory routed the hoses. I deleted the heater valve in my truck after the vacuum diaphragm on it failed and left me without heat in the dead of winter, three hours from home. The heater valve serves no purpose other than creating a potential cooling system failure point and expediting heater core failure by restricting coolant flow through the heater core for half of the year. In fact, Jeep eliminated the heater valve in later years.

 

Truly, there is no reason to maintain a heater valve. I did not notice any EXTRA heat coming in the cab when driving the truck yesterday. It was 99 degrees and 90% humidity. Plus the heat works great when the temperature is sub zero :)

 

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Interesting...I may have to do this in my future projects...

My air/heat falls into defrost mode and I don't have a/c...

But on some cold days whenever it's cold it's good to have some heat coming out the vents...

Your issue is a drop in vacuum, not the heater bypass valve. But, I'd still encourage you to throw the heater valve in the trash as preventative maintenance.

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It looks like you are well on your way, and doing a fine job at it! Very clean work.

 

I will post an engine bay picture of my 86, but I don't think it will answer your hose routing question. When I bought this truck, the previous owner had used green garden hose for the heater hoses, so I am not sure how the factory routed the hoses. I deleted the heater valve in my truck after the vacuum diaphragm on it failed and left me without heat in the dead of winter, three hours from home. The heater valve serves no purpose other than creating a potential cooling system failure point and expediting heater core failure by restricting coolant flow through the heater core for half of the year. In fact, Jeep eliminated the heater valve in later years.

 

Truly, there is no reason to maintain a heater valve. I did not notice any EXTRA heat coming in the cab when driving the truck yesterday. It was 99 degrees and 90% humidity. Plus the heat works great when the temperature is sub zero :)

 

 

Thanks! I am able to see in your picture what I needed. I try to do pretty clean work, but it takes me a while to get stuff done. My job is maintaining an Airbus/Eurocopter EC135P1 used for Medevac. Everything gets done as clean as possible. I carry that habit over into my vehicles, but I end up driving myself nuts with it and spending too much time and money. But, I have also driven all over the USA, lot's of it on either back roads or dirt roads, some in bad conditions. Because of the extra care I put into my machines, I have never had a failure that left me stranded. The negative side of that is that I have spent a lot of money tossing usable parts in the garbage because they looked like they would fail soon. With aircraft, I have guides that tell me how long a part lasts, and lots of specs to justify keeping or tossing something. With cars, trucks, and motorcycles, gut feeling, educated guessing, and paranoia is all I have.

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  • 1 month later...

Dogote,

 

I have the same setup, currently searching to see if anyone has bypassed this already, mine is still stock with the valve,  pic on the left , the yellow star with blue outline goes to the water pump, then another line from the water pump runs in front of the engine to the intake manifold, off the rear of the intake manifold the line goes behind the engine and is pictured as the red star with yellow outline. If your running without the heater valve let me know, mine has a small leak in it and I was thinking about ditching it. pic on the right shows routing of lines, yellow line from the water pump to intake manifold, then red line behind engine to HVC, and front red line tube running from water housing back to HVC pump as blue star with yellow inside.

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