Dogote

I will just about copy your build as mine progress's. Very nice, I love the color and the interior. A perfect MJ IMOHO.

Your Comanche is 100% bad @$$ dude! I love that you made the 2.5 run like that.

there are longitudinal mount ecotec engines. There is also a couple manual trans options. I have moved on from ecotec. If I were to do a car with an ecotec, I would do a small (probably very small) car like an MG Midget, and I would build it specifically for autocross. It's been done, and the results were impressive. I can make anything I need. A turbo on a 2.5, based on what others have done, ends up on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Stock manifold, custom pipe that goes under the engine and to the turbo. Ideally the turbo should be as close to the manifold as possible for efficiency, but lately I have seen many engines with the turbo a few feet (of pipe length) from the manifold and they are making power just fine. I wouldn't install a turbo without intercooling. The mega squirt will take care of fuel and spark needs. Centrifugal would be neat. The Ripp systems used on a lot of JK's put out decent power numbers on the dyno, but this is a craigslist/ebay/junkyard build. I won't find a centrifugal blower cheap, but there are plenty of good cheap turbo's.

I really want to keep a 4 cylinder in it.

I know a local guy who may have "blown up" his 2.5 YJ. I think he has a '93. I also think he just blew the head gasket. I heard he was pulling the 2.5 and dropping in a small block Chevy. I find out what he is doing with the '93 YJ stuff. I wonder if there is anything he will need to his SBC install, that I would also need to use from his MPFI?

There is a storm breaking? Looks like you must be near Monroe/Sultan area. I am all too familiar with the area. I drive Stevens Pass at least once a month, usually at night, and often in a storm.

I think going to MPFI is the next step with this engine. I have been reading as many threads as I can find to see what others have done. Not a lot out there, at least no any renix to mpfi threads that go anywhere.

I don't really care about bang for the buck/effort involved that much. It is more about doing a project like this. I have never added a turbo to anything. I have also never put an engine into a car it didn't belong in. It is all about the project to me. What I have done that makes me think I can do something interesting to the Comanche: rebuilt/modified 100's of new or nearly new Ducati motorcycle engines for customers. fully disassembled, inspected, and modified several turbine helicopters. (and put them back together and flew them) restored, maintained, inspected, and modified 100's of airplanes restored several cars restored dozens of motorcycles. I have tools, a shop, and an old Comanche. If not the Comanche, I'll do a homemade turbo set up in something else. I am kind of back to turboing the 2.5. I've been looking at Megasquirt injection to help with fueling. I don't care if it is fast, has as much power as a small block chevy, or is that reliable.

Yeah, I have came to my senses. As far as the amount of work, I have done that much work, many times. I really don't want to much that much effort into a 30 year old pick up truck. But........... I would not keep much of the factory harness. I would use most of the donor vehicles harness. I wouldn't use any of the Renix system on a different engine. What would be the point? The engine feels old and tired, because it is. Too much leak down around the rings is the issue here. I think I was leaking nearly 15% at 80 PSI, cold engine. No valve loss, due to a recently installed new head, but the rings are shot. No oil leaks anymore though, fixed all of them. I think I'll stick to the "normal" plan, just pulling the engine and doing an overhaul. I'm sure it will be just fine with the 2.5. Who make bigger bore/stroked cranks? All I find online is 505 performance. Their stuff looks okay, but they have a horrible reputation on the internet, especially in the JK world.

Since it is an '86 four cylinder MJ, I gather from searching this, and other forums that it is probably 4.10:1, but I have not verified that. I just took off 265/70/15's on aftermarket wheels and put on stock wheels with stock sized 215/80R/15 studded snow tires. It it much nicer to drive with the small stock tires. Ideally, I would like to put it on 255/75/17 or similar height/width. What would my tire size and gear ratio have to do with doing a drive train swap?

My 1986 2.5, 5 speed Comanche is running pretty good now for a Renix 2.5. About all that wrong now is a quick cough or two when its cold, and I think I have that figured out now. But, the 2.5 is old and worn. It will only get worse. I am considering overhauling it, the parts kits seem cheap. But, then I have a overhauled pushrod 4 cylinder with one of the worst fuel injection systems I have ever dealt with. As I think about other engines I could swap into the Comanche, I keep thinking about the Ecotec's. They have a lot of after market support, they are getting used in everything, Off road racers, autocross cars, rock crawlers......... I would most likely just buy a wreck with the engine I need. Upon looking at eBay and Craigslist, there are several possibilities out there for cheap. Another idea. Find a wrecked JK, and put as much of it's drive train and electronics in the Comanche as possible.

The part number is correct for a 1986 Comanche, so says my internet research. I could be wrong.

Sounds fair. I would like to see pictures of the parts, if it's not a bother. I am 50/50 as to if this is the way I will go or not. If my other thing doesn't pan out, I'll probably buy them.

How much? What do you think it would take to ship that to 98817?

Here are some pictures of what I have:

Hello everyone! I need more help. I have an older thread about this clutch repair here: I got the clutch fork from OMIX ADA. They said it would fit a 1986 with a 2.5 liter. It isn't even close. I am posting pictures of my transmission, and the clutch fork that was in it. Some things that make me think it may not be the original clutch is that it has 196,000 miles on it, it supposedly had the engine overhauled at some point, and it had the 9.125" clutch, not the 9.6" clutch in it. It also had ARP flywheel bolts. Here are some pictures. Help me figure out what I have and what I need.

This fork: http://www.omix-ada.com/clutch-k-76-86-jeep-cj.html Is listed by OMIX ADA as what fits. It's not even close.

New fork from Crown. I think it was about $20.00.

Toss those JK sensors. Mine corroded. First the aluminum valve caps I had on them got permanently stuck on one. I broke the sensor taking it off. When I had the tires pulled off, I saw that all of them where coated in heavy corrosion on the inside of the rims. I do not know how any moisture got to them, but they were corroded. I now have non-TPMS valves in my 2008 JK and just deal with the tire low light on. With Superchips you can turn the whole system off, I have Diablo Intune to work with my headers and intake, and can only set it to 0. I really wish I didn't have sensors on my 2015 KTM. I'd toss them in a second. Either I run way too much PSI for dirt, or I have to scroll through warning screens every time I start the bike. Our Commander show actual PSI, I guess that's hand for the wife daily driver. Our mini allows us to set the pressure the indication comes with through the dash computer, so it's less annoying as well. BTW, Mini has 3 set of wheels for it. 2 set have after market tire sensors that will work on multiple brands of car. I believe they will work with an aftermarket receiver too. TLDR version: Keep your old truck simple stupid.

HELP NEEDED!!! My clutch disc measures 9" with a tape measure. It could be 9.125" but it sure is not 9.6". The LUK clutch for a 1986 2.5 measures 9.6", Later models are 9.125" Did the last person to put a clutch in put in the wrong one? It worked. I am buying the complete clutch kit. will the 9.6" clutch fit my flywheel? Or should I stick with whats in it?

And then I actually looked at the fork.......... It is cracked and bent. It looks like it has been working up to that for a while. My new master and slave are probably just fine, it was bending under load! I will put it back together with all new clutch stuff and seals, but I am going to leave the slave and master I put on it last year. They have less than 500 miles on them, and they were the best ones I was able to find when I bought them.

Update. I just got a chance to pull my MJ apart. The clutch fork is worn where the plastic tip of the slave cylinder contacts it. The tip of the slave cylinder slipped off. I didn't realize this until I had it out. I suspected something like that, but I couldn't see anything through the slave mounting boss. The clutch is close to the rivets. I replace everything and hopefully not be in there again. Rear main seal may as well be changed too. I'm sure I'll find other stuff.

Now I am wondering if the feeling of things in the clutch being "jammed" are actually the master cylinder piston being forced into the bore at an angle. It never really worked as well as a new master should when I replaced it, and only got worse. I am going to investigate that a little more before I tear into pulling the drive train out to do the clutch. I am not looking forward to taking this truck apart, I love this little Comanche, but its not my hobby or my passion to make it anything more than a cheap little truck we use to pick up materials with for ongoing home improvements, or hauling stuff to the dump. I have 6 motorcycles, a very modded JKUR, and Mini Cooper S, and a Hemi Commander that I have put way too much time into lately. I need a break from fixing and maintaining cars and bikes to get other stuff in life done. Plus the huge mess I'd make in my hangar, with my luck I'd have a helicopter owner needing unscheduled maintenance done half way through the truck job and it would all need to get pushed outside for a couple weeks.

I had to use both the rod and the plastic cone from the old slave when I installed to new one. The new rod was too long to use with the plastic cone. In fact I was able to buy a new plastic cone from OMIX for it. I think they came in a 2 or 3 pack for some reason, I know I have at least one more in my box of wrong gaskets and other crap that didn't get used when I put a new head on last year, along with master, slave, brakes, hoses, and other stuff. One good thing. The truck has sat since this happened last fall in the corner of an unheated airplane hangar. I charged up the battery and it ran perfectly right off the bat. Old gas and all.

Thanks for all the replies. I agree that it is probably a TO bearing failure. I also agree that NAPA is probably my best option on the parts, my local NAPA isn't great with anything but agricultural parts, and the next nearest one is about 45 miles away. I'll give them a chance anyways. I am tired of getting the wrong part, which I end up never sending back and then tossing on a shelf where it will sit until forever. Like the heavy duty rear diff cover I bought on sale for my wife's XK, and it wasn't for a diff with electric lockers. I get the thing about the parts catalogs. PITA to just order stuff for this truck. With this forum, I am starting to figure out whats what. Thanks for that. I don't know if I'll be able to pull it apart tomorrow, hopefully I will. I will post pictures. I just replaced both the master and the slave last year, less than 500 miles ago. The truck is only used locally, small town. I think the master is bad again, and I don't like the looks of the rubber flex line. I'll probably just do all 3, whats another 25 bucks to know the slave is not going to spew fluid into my new clutch.