Brake issue

[dkmcgowan]

I'm noticing brake issues.

 

History... I put all new lines on, turned rear drums, new rear pads and hardware, new brake booster, new master cylinder, and bled the brakes. I did pads on front brakes and it needs new rotors maybe but I'm waiting because I'm planning to add an axle for 4wd conversion soon. I didn't bleed the valve where you bleed the rear with the front open, just a regular bleed job.

 

I also adjusted the rear brakes with the star thing until I could rotate them only one full turn with a hard twist, and then adjusted parking brake.

 

They stop great when driving, can stop short and feel good.

 

Now for the issue...

 

Sometimes when I first crank it up and start driving, twice this week leaving my parking deck at work, I go to stop and I push on brakes, it's not hard like a bad booster or soft like air or bad cylinder, but its not right. It's like the brakes get to the end and can not go any further, you hit the stopping point, you cannot push any further, but the vehicle is still moving, it's slowing down, but it doesn't actually stop. It will do this a few more times and by the time I get home to test in the neighborhood, slamming brakes stops great and all is working.

 

Thoughts?

 

Bad wheel cylinder or caliper locking up and not working?

[91Pioneer]

Bleed the brakes the right way and then post back.

[Eagle]

I also adjusted the rear brakes with the star thing until I could rotate them only one full turn with a hard twist, and then adjusted parking brake.

I have no idea from this what you did, but it doesn't sound right.

[dkmcgowan]

 

I also adjusted the rear brakes with the star thing until I could rotate them only one full turn with a hard twist, and then adjusted parking brake.

I have no idea from this what you did, but it doesn't sound right.

 

 

I after I did the shoes on the rear brakes there is the opening in the back with the gear with the teeth on it.  You can use this to manually adjust the brakes.  It's the auto adjuster, but many say you have to get them adjusted initially so they can do their job...

 

So jack up the car on the rear, and then I adjusted the teeth to tighten the rear brakes.  I kept adjusting until when I rotate it by hand, off the ground, the wheel makes one full rotation.  That seemed to be a good balance.

 

I then made sure the parking brake would stop the car from moving with 4 clicks.

[dkmcgowan]

Bleed the brakes the right way and then post back.

 

I know...  I need a friend to come by and help so it hasn't happened yet.  I did think that if the valve opened up the brake light would come on the indicator panel, so I assumed it wasn't opening so it wasn't the issue.  I know there could be air in there so I need to bleed by opening the front bleeder on passenger side, then making sure the light comes on, then bleeding the rear, then closing the front passenger bleeder, then re-bleeding all 4 again.

 

I didn't know about that when I bled it the first time and just did it regular way bleeding all 4.

 

It could be the issue I guess, some air in there, so it presses down all the way and doesn't stop it.  I am getting no light on the indicator panel though.

 

I will see if I can find a buddy to come help me bleed them the right way.

[HOrnbrod]

 

Bleed the brakes the right way and then post back.

 

I know...  I need a friend to come by and help so it hasn't happened yet.  I did think that if the valve opened up the brake light would come on the indicator panel, so I assumed it wasn't opening so it wasn't the issue.  I know there could be air in there so I need to bleed by opening the front bleeder on passenger side, then making sure the light comes on, then bleeding the rear, then closing the front passenger bleeder, then re-bleeding all 4 again.

 

I didn't know about that when I bled it the first time and just did it regular way bleeding all 4.

 

It could be the issue I guess, some air in there, so it presses down all the way and doesn't stop it.  I am getting no light on the indicator panel though.

 

I will see if I can find a buddy to come help me bleed them the right way.

 

 

I've been through two different rear axles, booster/master upgrade, and converted the rears to disk brakes. All this stuff required new brake lines and full bleeding when done each time. I've never had to do the load sensing valve bleed procedure and have great brakes. I'm not saying this isn't your problem, but I doubt it. Maybe I've just been lucky. 

[mule5]

First of all your bleed job can be done with one person you started the furthest cylinder away from the master cylinder open it up keep the master cylinder full of fluid and watch for air bubbles once the bubbles were gone go to the next will cylinder I've done this for years and have not had any problems. Good luck

[victorgallas]

 

 

Bleed the brakes the right way and then post back.

 

I know...  I need a friend to come by and help so it hasn't happened yet.  I did think that if the valve opened up the brake light would come on the indicator panel, so I assumed it wasn't opening so it wasn't the issue.  I know there could be air in there so I need to bleed by opening the front bleeder on passenger side, then making sure the light comes on, then bleeding the rear, then closing the front passenger bleeder, then re-bleeding all 4 again.

 

I didn't know about that when I bled it the first time and just did it regular way bleeding all 4.

 

It could be the issue I guess, some air in there, so it presses down all the way and doesn't stop it.  I am getting no light on the indicator panel though.

 

I will see if I can find a buddy to come help me bleed them the right way.

 

 

I've been through two different rear axles, booster/master upgrade, and converted the rears to disk brakes. All this stuff required new brake lines and full bleeding when done each time. I've never had to do the load sensing valve bleed procedure and have great brakes. I'm not saying this isn't your problem, but I doubt it. Maybe I've just been lucky. 

 

 

would you mind sharing the bleed procedure for the load valve? Also, i am having to fabricate a rod to connect the axle to the valve. How do you go about adjusting it \? When the truck is sitting still with no weight on the back, should the arm on the valve be horizontal as a starting point?

 

Thanks

[Eagle]

Proportioning valve connector rod: http://comancheclub.com/topic/16955-adjustable-mj-load-sensing-valve/

[cruiser54]

 

 

Bleed the brakes the right way and then post back.

 

I know...  I need a friend to come by and help so it hasn't happened yet.  I did think that if the valve opened up the brake light would come on the indicator panel, so I assumed it wasn't opening so it wasn't the issue.  I know there could be air in there so I need to bleed by opening the front bleeder on passenger side, then making sure the light comes on, then bleeding the rear, then closing the front passenger bleeder, then re-bleeding all 4 again.

 

I didn't know about that when I bled it the first time and just did it regular way bleeding all 4.

 

It could be the issue I guess, some air in there, so it presses down all the way and doesn't stop it.  I am getting no light on the indicator panel though.

 

I will see if I can find a buddy to come help me bleed them the right way.

 

 

I've been through two different rear axles, booster/master upgrade, and converted the rears to disk brakes. All this stuff required new brake lines and full bleeding when done each time. I've never had to do the load sensing valve bleed procedure and have great brakes. I'm not saying this isn't your problem, but I doubt it. Maybe I've just been lucky. 

 

My experience also. Never futzed with the load sensing valve either.

[cruiser54]

Get one of these.

 

http://www.tooltopia.com/mityvac-mv8020.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=paid_search_google_pla&scid=scplp6821333&gclid=CjwKEAjw1riwBRD61db6xtWTvTESJACoQ04Q5gJ61SpBkWCROBqFHQzxmxCW4qTb5HG6Plnpq1tBlhoCykjw_wcB

[dkmcgowan]

Pretty cool tool, I need to order one so I can spend time and get it done right.

 

I'm hoping it's just air in the system from when I replaced the brake booster and master cylinder.  I purchase a new NAPA master cylinder, I've read they are pretty good, so I hope it's not bad.

 

So when I'm driving and slam on the brakes, I reach the end of the pedal and I don't come to a complete stop.

 

But other times the brakes are more sensitive and seem to work better and I can slam on the brakes and stop.

 

Would air in the system cause intermittent failure like that?  I can pump them and it doesn't really seem to change much.  The past two days they felt good most all the time, and today they did it again.

 

It's not terrible, the brakes still are working.

 

I have replaced booster and new master cylinder, also all 4 new brake lines to the cylinders and calipers, new rear shoes and hardware, turned rear drums, adjusted rear, and new front shoes.  The front rotors are worn, but I didn't turn or replace them because I didn't want to waste money because I'm looking to convert to 4wd and put a new Dana 30 up front and the rotors and calipers are different, so I know they are worn.

 

Thoughts?