Jump to content

Another AX-15 swap thread.


Recommended Posts

For flushing it, I would fill it with 75-90 gear oil.  Run it for a few hundred miles.  Drain. Refill.  Lather. Rinse. Repeat.  You could possibly use just 10w-30 oil for the flushing steps.  10/30 is much cheaper than gear oil.  There is a lot of postings about which oil to use/not use.  Many people say to stay away from GL5 rating.

 

For a final fill, I use Pennzoil Syncromesh.

 

For the output seal: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=253205&cc=1185005&jnid=477&jpid=1

 

You could get one at most autoparts stores.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

30 WT SYNTHETIC, dirt shouldn't cause problems if it wasn't metal ,just change it soon, I would use regular 30 for about 20 mi then flush. I would not load or stress the tranny till you put the synthetic back in it. The property differences between conventional and synthetic are astronomical, so do not run regular 30wt for very long (1 day max), like I suggest 20 mi at light load and speed. And yes, you just tap the seal in ,just be sure to use some sort of driver like an old socket or such.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe 91 is electric, not cable. That was the first yr. of the Chrysler HO. I know, I had a 91 XJ.

The '91 ('92 and early '93 as well) speedometer is electric, yes, but it's more like a mechanical speedo with an extremely short cable and a huge distance between the signal pickup and the gauge. It uses the same gears as the mechanical ones. ChryCo didn't give start using the Hall-effect speedo in a XJ until the middle of '93.

Either way, you can just pull the gear assembly out of the t-case and swap in whatever goes with the truck as they're interchangeable.

Just put a late '93 XJ's t-case into my '91 MJ and had a bit of confusion when the speedo wouldn't plug in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well the Tcase is only 100$ so I'll just take that 5 minutes to change the gear haha. I'll grab a few quarts of regular and synthetic and change it, drive up the road, and change it again. Also will pick up the output shaft seal to change. Where the heck is the vent hole on this thing? There isn't one like on my BA10. And on the subject of tcase shift linkages, I've seen people talk about some aftermarket supplier that makes linkages out of heims joints and completely gets rid of the stock linkage? It was like $40 for a kit, but I forgot the name.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

30 WT SYNTHETIC, dirt shouldn't cause problems if it wasn't metal ,just change it soon, I would use regular 30 for about 20 mi then flush. I would not load or stress the tranny till you put the synthetic back in it. The property differences between conventional and synthetic are astronomical, so do not run regular 30wt for very long (1 day max), like I suggest 20 mi at light load and speed. And yes, you just tap the seal in ,just be sure to use some sort of driver like an old socket or such.

I've researched and heard of a LOT of people using conventional 10w30 and loving it? I'm confused haha. There wasn't even anyone using synthetic from what I saw.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it sat outside for a month or so.. I was worried about that as well. Theres a 30 day warranty on the trans, and I'm working on getting it installed this Friday or next Friday due to that. Looking inside through the holes everything looks good. No rust inside from what I could see. Seems everything still has a coating of gear oil on it. I'm going to pull the drain plug and see if anything comes out tomorrow. What worries should I have for it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

x1sz2LE.jpg this is what I found when I just pulled the drain plug. About a cup of water and a cup of black gear oil. The magnet was covered in a fine metal powder and a sludg at the bottom of the tranny when I stuck my finger in the hole. I'm guessing I need to bring it back? This sucks, this thing only has 130k on it.

 

Edit: Got the full scoop on this thing. The place said it came out of a running driving Cherokee that was rear ended. It had been out of the Jeep and outside for about 2 months. That was a paper plates worth of 50/50 water and oil. No rust or foam from what I saw. The sludge at the bottom of the tranny was 99% dirt and some metal dust. Just enough metal dust to cause a little sparkle on my finger. No chunks at all. It takes a little umf to put the tranny into each gear, but shouldn't that be expected with no oil in it? When the input shaft is spun with my hand in every gear it doesn't make much sound. Spins smoothly with ease depending on which gear. I really don't want to take this one back but I will if I have to, but I also don't want to be out an AX-15... opinions?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...