Jess Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 My front passenger wheel bearings are totally toast - my understanding is you have to replace the whole hub. Does anyone have any recommendations? I was looking at these on Ebay because they are super cheap, but I'm not sure if this is the part I want to go super cheap on. But I'm also broke after my AX15 swap :laughin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 Don't cheap out on bearings and hubs. I would recommend Timken if possible, or at least another quality USA made part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 The problem is that the hubs have slightly different offsets for different years. I'm pretty certain that the YJ and the TJ did NOT take the same hub, so whatever year front axle you have, there's a good possibility these hubs won't fit. Steering knuckles: There are two designs of steering knuckle, and within each design the left and right sides are mirror image and carry different part numbers. The early knuckles were used from 1984 through 1989. The late knuckles were used from 1990 through 2001. Hub/Bearing: Three different hub/bearing assemblies were used. The hub/bearing assembly is the same for both sides of the vehicle. The first type was used from 1984 through 1989, and must be mated to the early steering knuckle from the same range of years. The early hub/rotors used tapered roller bearings, which are available as individual replacement parts, and in theory can be rebuilt. In practice, removing the old bearings and installing new ones requires a large arbor press and bearing splitter, equipment not available to the average owner. In practice, even dealerships simply replace the entire assembly, because the labor cost to rebuild would exceed the cost of a replacement assembly. The second type of hub/bearing assembly was used from 1990 through mid-1999. This hub/bearing assembly mates up with the newer style steering knuckle and is used with composite rotors. Certain years of XJ with composite rotors were subject to a safety recall if they were located in northern “rust belt” states, because of problems with the rotors (see below). When replacing hub/bearings in vehicles within this range of years, unless the vehicle recall history is known it is wise to call a dealer or DaimlerChrysler customer service to determine whether or not the vehicle has undergone the brake rotor recall. If so, confirm which hub/bearing assemblies should be used as service replacements.. The third type of hub/bearing assembly was used from mid-1999 through 2001. This hub/bearing is also used with the new style steering knuckles, and is mated with the newer style cast rotors. Rotors: Three types of rotors were used. Rotors are the same for left and right sides. The first style of rotor was used from 1984 through 1989. The second style of rotor was used from 1990 through mid-1999. This second style rotor was a “composite” design—the braking surface disc was separate from the center “hat” section, which was stamped from comparatively thin sheet steel. After several years of service, it was found that in states and localities where salt is used on the roads in winter, corrosion of the “hat” section could result in the disc portion separating from the assembly, causing a loss of brakes. A factory recall was issued to correct this problem. The recall affects only vehicles within a range of years, and only in certain states. Anyone owning a Cherokee or Comanche in the range from 1990 through 1999 is advised to call a dealer or DaimlerChrysler customer service with the VIN number to determine if the vehicle is subject to this recall. Mid-year in the 1999 model year the front brakes were changed to an all cast rotor design. Although the original, early style rotors were also all cast, the new rotors are different from the early ones and carry a different part number. The new cast rotors were used from mid-1999 through 2001. Because 1999 was a transition year, owners of 1999 Cherokees will need the VIN number to determine the correct parts to order when servicing the front brakes or hub/bearing assemblies. Calipers: Two styles of caliper were used. The calipers are mirror image for the left and right sides and carry different part numbers within each group of years. The early style caliper was used from 1984 through 1989. The later style caliper was used from 1990 through 2001 and is used with both the composite rotors and the newer cast rotors. The above is from my manuscript, which is copyrighted to me. Please do not disseminate by any means. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jess Posted August 15, 2015 Author Share Posted August 15, 2015 Yeah you're right, the ones I linked don't appear to fit - but there is endless supply of cheap ones on Ebay that do. I probably won't go cheapest of cheap - it's just trying to find a good middle ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 IF you have the older 2-piece renix-era knuckles, then you need renix hubs. If you have the later 1-piece knuckles, then as long as you have matching rotors for them it does not matter which of the hubs you run. Not sure about here, but I know at naxja and a couple other forums there is a way to tell the difference, it involves hub lip height and rotor hat height. IIRC, the taller lip on the HO hubs is for 2000-up (technically 98.5 or 99 I think also) and the shorter one is for 98-down HO hubs. IF you have the 1-piece knuckles and are planning on replacing everything, just get 00-up XJ/TJ hubs and matching rotors. Pads are the same for all HO years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 here's a photo from an older thread on this site: The 2000 and up TJ bearing is on the right, its got longer studs and you can see how the WMS is shorter. Source thread: http://comancheclub.com/topic/39809-wj-knuckles/?hl=hubs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reubj Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Timken or SKF for me. I was lucky and found a NOS Mopar hub on eBay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jess Posted August 16, 2015 Author Share Posted August 16, 2015 Are you guys using Timken Part#: 513107 (89 MJ 4x4 i6)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 That is the correct number for renix UB's. IF you go to your local Carquest/Advance auto parts the premium bearings are made by moog. IIRC, they have a lifetime warranty as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 I have never seen a longer warranty on unit bearings than three years. I have also lost my faith in Timken. Their quality seems to have slid down the drain the last few years. No experience with Moog yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 A thought, in your brand new bearing the manufacturer applies grease, "next to none" took apart several brands same findings, So buy the cheap bearing, tap it apart in your vise apply grease I prefer boat axle grease to displace water for you wheelers then tap back together its simple to do, didn't cause damage to seal just slides apart.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xjrev10 Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 I have been buying Raybestos Pro grade for year with no issues. My local parts store house brand is the pro grade parts. Good pricing too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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