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What have I done


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I have a 1988 Jeep Comanche Pioneer (5 speed manual, 4.0, 4x4) when I got this truck the brake lights didn't work, turned out to be an easy fix, i just had to rewire the connection to the switch on the brake pedal, but as i was bolting it back on a small amount of smoke started coming from under the hood, i quickly shut off the key (i know, it should have already been off) and popped the bonnet to find smoke, the smell of burning rubber, and no apparent damage to any wires or connectors (inside or out) that i could find. However, once i climbed back inside i realized all electricity that passes through the cabin was DOA (no radio, fan, turn signals, break lights, starter motor, or wipers, but the headlights still work) i dug through the wires up front again and replaced any questionable fuses (they were really old and a little corroded, but none were burnt) and i took the cover off from under the dash board and looked through those wires to no avail, they all looked healthy, any thoughts?

 

Personally i think that it must be something through the key, as it continually acts as if they key were off, but as i said, i couldnt find an obvious short and the smoke was coming from under the hood, over by the wiring box (or where it should be, due to an engine fire a couple years back i no longer have a box, but it was repaired by a mechanic and has run ever sense)

 

If no body has a suggestion i will have to take it to a mechanic, but i would much rather fix it, unfortunately the body of my expertise falls outside of electricals

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Another factor is that lift moves the front wheels toward the back of the wheel opening, because the control arms swind down, reducing the horizontal distance from the frame pockets. You may need to add some shims to get the caster angle back where it's supposed to be. have you had an alignment done?

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Found the MAIN problem (not the caster angle, surprise surprise), i had a burned wire running to the key, replaced that and started it to find i hadn't fixed the short (that was exciting) dug some bare on bare wires from under the dashboard and patched them up (along with all the other wires that fried with the 2nd try), runs like a top.

Problem is now that I'm still missing a lot of my electricals; radio, fan, horn, turn signals (but i still have gauges w/ backlight). Does anyone know if these run off of the same ground wire or fusible link? it would save me A LOT of wire checking if i could track that down

 

And if anyone has a wiring diagram it would help a ton!

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I thought a fusible link would blow first too, but it was definitely just a piece of wire

 

I'll look for those diagrams

A fusible link IS a piece of wire. That's why it's called a "fusible link," not a "fuse."

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Could be it, but this piece of wire ran straight off of first box the accessory cable runs into from the battery, and it was the piece attached directly to the connector, as well as having the same size insulation as the rest, i believe it burned first because it was old and worn and some of the interior wires had broken, so it was basically an accidental fusible link even if it wasnt

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Found the culprit! (hopefully)

 

The switch on top of the steering column under the dash that the rod from the key changes had some major heat damage on the inside, i believe mainly to the accessory contact, getting a new one as soon as i can find one....

See Post 13.......The brown wire........

 

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Ignition switch, p/n J3250576, available at Rockauto and others.
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Ignition switch alignment:

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Fig. 2: Ignition switch rod positioning
On non-tilt columns:
Move the ignition switch slider to the OFF unlocked position (move the slider all the way down, then back two clicks). The remote rod hole in the ignition switch slider should now be centered.
Insert the remote rod in the ignition switch slider hole and install the ignition switch on the steering column. Tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
On tilt columns:
Insert the ignition key in the lock cylinder and turn the cylinder to the OFF unlocked position.
Move the ignition switch downward to eliminate any slack and tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
Install any components removed for switch access.

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Getting the part tomorrow, ordered it from carquest, thanks a ton for all the help!! out of curiosity, what is the technical name for this part?

Ignition Switch module - but be sure the parts guy knows you are not asking for the ignition key tumbler (key switch).

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