Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have fixed OEM style control arms now.

 

During the original install of the axle and the last two times I've had it disconnected, I could get the two uppers bolted and one lower bolted easily but the last bolt of the lower was a b*@$£. When I installed new springs several weeks ago I noticed that the upper driver's side bushing looked like it has be stressed, worn. I'm assuming that the two uppers are out of alignment.

 

Question is-

 

When I install the adjustables, do I adjust the upper to each mount or do I make certain that each arm is the same length and then use the ratchet strap on the last bolt?

 

 

Thanks

 

Posted

Make them the same lenght on both sides. You will have weird caster angles if you don't. I use a big pipe wrech on the long tube and a jack on the end of the wrench handle to rotate the axle into place.

Posted

Yeah, both.

 

I'm considering Ironman's arms. Two reasons- the WJ hits the shock mount and I want to move the axle out about 1/2" to center the wheel before I go 285/60/18.

 

And.....I'm moving the lowers and Ravines over to the XJ.

 

3" of lift.

Posted

Make them the same lenght on both sides. You will have weird caster angles if you don't. I use a big pipe wrech on the long tube and a jack on the end of the wrench handle to rotate the axle into place.

Thanks.

Posted

Two reasons- the WJ hits the shock mount and I want to move the axle out about 1/2" to center the wheel before I go 285/60/18.

3" of lift.

Those are new ones for me for 3" of lift.

Posted

Static-

Image Not Found

Which side / angle / is this pic taken from? Let me know and I'll snap a pic. I just looked at mine and have over 1/2" clearance between the lower shock mount and the top of the LCA, and the wheel is perfectly centered in the flare.  Something's not right..........

 

EDIT:  Quick Pic

 

Posted

Yeah, I know.

 

Just behind the driver's tire...that angle. Yeah, the camera perspective is off, the shock mount is more level than shown here.

Posted

Looks like my pic above is from the inner side of the left LCA while yours is from the outer side. But you can see the difference in the clearance................

Posted

I took out 1/8" of shim from each side today and that seemed to help a little.  Steering got a little better.

 

Could be my caster is way off.

 

After the arms are installed, there is a good shop local to me and the guy is good with Jeep and he understands the suspension, I'll have him align it.

Posted

Just for reference, I have installed WJ lowers and I'm currently working on installing WJ uppers. I had to trim the shock mount because the WJ uppers are slightly shorter. This means that the shock mount was pushing on the WJ lowers at full droop. I will take a picture of how much I removed once I get my axle side bolts in ( It's been a pain so far).

 

I have a 225/75/16 tire with 1 3/4'' of lift. WIth 245 or 255's your axle would be up higher, so with a bigger tire there is less to worry about.

Posted

Jeep Driver, maybe it's just camera angle, but it looks as though you have the WJ LCAs installed upside down. The round bushing is supposed to be in front; oval bushing on the rear. That would explain the tight clearance with the shock mount.

 

Someone eyeball this and tell me I'm crazy.................

Posted

Grand-Cherokee-WJ-Vorderachse.jpg

 

 

 

This is what I pulled off the web, but my crown manual shows the same diagram.

 

Another image: http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/39375960+w660+h440+q80+re0+cr1+ar0/1202-4wd-03%2b1999-jeep-grand-cherokee-wj-rough-country-suspension%2bcontrol-arm

 

Seems to me that the round bushing should be on the frame side. If the arms were reversed, you'd have less ground clearance. Though at the same time, you'd have an easier time clearing the shock mount.

 

Edit, see post number four: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/wj-control-arms-xj-direction-130408/

Posted

Thanks Dillithium. It appears mine are mounted upside down, opposite of the factory WJ mounting, not Jeep Driver. Well, they have been on there like that for many years and work just fine and the bushings are fine too. Wondered why I didn't have to trim anything except the bushing sleeves when I mounted them. I'll swap them around when I change bushings in ten years or so...... :yes:

 

From the WJ parts manual:

 

Posted

Thanks guys.

 

 

The first WJ set I put on were take offs from the PnP and I put them on the way I took them off.

 

 

I'm convinced that I have an alignment problem, everything sort of changed after I installed the new ball joints. One of my ball joint came out in pieces and the alignment was to the old lowers and ball joints.....IOWs I changed too much after the last alignment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...