87 COMANCHE PIONEER Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 I know many people take the o-ring out of the prop valve, but would deleting the prop valve gain the same braking? I just got an exploder rear and springs with 3.73 and limited slip for 100$ and plan on stripping it and putting all new brackets on with 4.56 front and rear with al locker in the dana 30. I would like to delete the prop valve, but if it doesn't brake better i don't really see the need to, when i can take the o-ring out. Also, i plan on keeping the MJ MC and booster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddFoot Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 you really need to upgrade to the 95-96 dual diaphragm brake booster. i tried just takeing the oring out on my88 xj and i still couldnt stop as quick as id like. after the upgrade i could lock up my 35s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 I installed a '98 8.8 under my '86. I removed the height sensing valve in the rear and removed the unnecessary extra brake line, so I have a 50/50 bias. I am also using the factory '86 booster and master. The truck stops phenomenally and better than my TJ with the Vanco big brake kit. If you decide you don't like the 50/50 bias, you can easily install an aftermarket proportion valve. I do not know anything about said mysterious o-ring. My assumption is it may be part of the XJ proportion valve, which is irrelevant as the MJ is plumbed different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 The below is how you remove the o-ring, but this is for XJs that have the prop valve in the block. The block on the MJs is not a prop valve, it's simply a distribution block. There's no o-ring in the MJ block. The load sensing valve is the proportioning valve for the rear brakes. Install your new axle keeping the MJ block and load sensing valve, then see how the rear brakes work. If they lock up too quick, install an inline prop valve to bias the rear disks. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Proportioning_Valve_Mod.htm EDIT: ^^ Brett beat me to it. :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87 COMANCHE PIONEER Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 I really appreciate all the responses guys. I am running 33's and that's my maximum tire size. So, if I remove the load sensing valve it might would brake better? :???: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Install your new axle keeping the MJ block and load sensing valve, then see how the rear brakes work. My rear disks work just fine with the load sensing valve adjusted properly. Others claim their valve didn't work, so they eliminated it for 50 - 50 front - rear brake biasing. You won't know until you try it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Pioneer Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 I suspect most people remove the load sensing valve because they think it's bad or don't completely understand how it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 I suspect most people remove the load sensing valve because they think it's bad or don't completely understand how it works. I suspect you are correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Pioneer Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 How about this, if you don't understand it, just assume it works and leave it alone ;) In theory it's a great thing to have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87 COMANCHE PIONEER Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 I see what you guys are saying, I'll install the axle and see how the brakes work and if the pedal feels good and she brakes good, I'll leave it be. If she decides not to cooperate then bye bye load sensing valve. I won't be hauling anything anyway. She's a daily driver and weekend warrior. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob Ochs Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 I see what you guys are saying, I'll install the axle and see how the brakes work and if the pedal feels good and she brakes good, I'll leave it be. If she decides not to cooperate then bye bye load sensing valve. I won't be hauling anything anyway. She's a daily driver and weekend warrior. I did my 8.8 swap about a month ago and didn't change anything and mine brakes great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 I suspect most people remove the load sensing valve because they think it's bad or don't completely understand how it works.In my case I elected to remove the valve since one of the brake lines was rusted through, the other wasn't and was in great shape. Being mindful of budget I decided it was cheaper to buy a plug for the distribution block than to install a new brake line. Plus I wanted to see how the truck would behave, and I was pleasantly surprised. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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