Knucklehead97 Posted January 9, 2015 Posted January 9, 2015 I'm about to be getting a fuel sending unit off of another member. It reads properly and the fuel pump runs. I want to rebuild this thing as much as I can. As in putting a new fuel pump and strainer in it, and changing the oring on the electrical connecter. My question is, how hard is that oring to change? And whats the part number on it? Also its got a good bit of surface rust on the outside, can I just sand it all off and spray paint it? Thanks.
Akula69 Posted January 9, 2015 Posted January 9, 2015 O ring is not hard to change, need a 1' star nut to secure it on the inside. Best to remove surface rust and then seal it with fuel proof paint.
cruiser54 Posted January 9, 2015 Posted January 9, 2015 Easy. Napa has the o-ring and "nut" as a kit.
Knucklehead97 Posted January 10, 2015 Author Posted January 10, 2015 Great. Got a parts number? No Napa in town... think Advance or Oreillys may carry them?
cruiser54 Posted January 10, 2015 Posted January 10, 2015 No part number. They surely have them at other parts stores.
Knucklehead97 Posted January 10, 2015 Author Posted January 10, 2015 Ill check tomorrow. Great working next door to a Advance Auto. Now just to find a Bosch pump for under 100$. Rockauto no longer carries them.
Knucklehead97 Posted January 11, 2015 Author Posted January 11, 2015 Didn't have it at advance. Gonna oreillys sometime. They do have a assortment pack of fuel proof Orings though, any chance the right size is in that pack?
Akula69 Posted January 11, 2015 Posted January 11, 2015 Take old ring with you and compare. Found mine at Napa
Knucklehead97 Posted January 13, 2015 Author Posted January 13, 2015 Now just the waiting game for that unit to get here :D
Jeepman Posted January 13, 2015 Posted January 13, 2015 When I needed a New Sender (a good 8+ years ago) I just bought an OE XJ sender (you can still buy them new today) and then I altered it into an MJ Sender and Had me a Brand new MJ Sender for only my time and the cost of the OE XJ one...
buckwheat Posted January 13, 2015 Posted January 13, 2015 When I needed a New Sender (a good 8+ years ago) I just bought an OE XJ sender (you can still buy them new today) and then I altered it into an MJ Sender and Had me a Brand new MJ Sender for only my time and the cost of the OE XJ one... Did you record how you modified it to work? Or know where I could find detailed instructions on doing so? I apologize for hijacking your thread Knucklehead. I need to fix my leaking gas tank as well and would like to just replace the fuel pump and sending unit as well as the o-ring.
Jeepman Posted January 13, 2015 Posted January 13, 2015 When I needed a New Sender (a good 8+ years ago) I just bought an OE XJ sender (you can still buy them new today) and then I altered it into an MJ Sender and Had me a Brand new MJ Sender for only my time and the cost of the OE XJ one... Did you record how you modified it to work? Or know where I could find detailed instructions on doing so? I apologize for hijacking your thread Knucklehead. I need to fix my leaking gas tank as well and would like to just replace the fuel pump and sending unit as well as the o-ring. No sorry I don't think I kept the pics and info from back then but it was really easy for me... Looks Like it was 7 years ago I Did it but this is the only pics I have left but they are just the senders not the mods.. Image Not Found
Knucklehead97 Posted January 15, 2015 Author Posted January 15, 2015 What do you guys think? What all should I do to "rebuild" it? And whats the best fuel pump? I hears Bosch was, but whats the part number for it? Rockauto no longer.sells the Bosch so I was gonna order through Ebay. Thanks
Akula69 Posted January 16, 2015 Posted January 16, 2015 If the mounting 'ears' (that engage the locking ring) are still sound you can easily refurbish that unit. I would remove all the parts except the sender, tape the sender very well and then sandblast the metal. Once cleaned I'd look for small pin holes and deep voids, filling them with a steel epoxy filler. Then paint the entire unit with a fuel proof paint such as glass kote (two part epoxy paint used in scale modeling). You can still order the harness assembly if you look hard enough - but would have to put a splice (I used bullet connecters) in the two wires for ease of removal. New pump (I used Bosch) and hoses.
Knucklehead97 Posted January 16, 2015 Author Posted January 16, 2015 I may actually have to wait on the full rebuild. I just researched how to paint in winter, and ends up theres no successful way really. I have no indoor, warm, place that I could go. I'm still going to get a new locknut and oring for it and I'm going to search thoroughly for pin holes. The "ears" are still perfectly strong. Its all surface rust. My only worry is on the inside of the unit, that white surface residue. How could I get rid of that white stuff, if it would impair the opperation of the unit in any way? A full rebuild will happen this summer hopefully. Gotta have this thing in sooner though. Thanks.
Knucklehead97 Posted January 17, 2015 Author Posted January 17, 2015 I've got a Bosch pump kit on the way. Found an Oring I think will work and will get a locknut, lockring, and fuel sock tomorrow. Going to use steel wool to clean up the oxidation on the inside a little bit. Quite nervous and gentle when handling this thing lol.
Knucklehead97 Posted January 18, 2015 Author Posted January 18, 2015 I've gotten the locknut on the connector tightned down as much as I can. But it still spins if you apply enough force. Is that okay?
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