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Headlight Delay Module Sentinal Diagnosis Test Wiring

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I picked up one of Jeep Headlight Delays.  It's labeled 56000363 and is made in the USA, I was told it was out of a 1990.   I plugged it in and cannot get it to function.    


The fuse is good.   I turned the key to on, and turned headlights on.  Let it sit for 3 minutes, then turned key off, waited 10 seconds then turned headlight switch off and the lights turned off immediately.    Any Ideas? 


I have since pulled the relay and have it set up on a bench with a 12v battery and a single light bulb as headlight.  My wiring to the battery mirrors that of the truck and I cannot get it to keep the light bulb on following the same switching procedure.    I am trying to bench test because I broke my collar bone a few weeks ago and I'm not able to twist to actually test the truck side plug as described in the manual.


Is there another way to test this relay? 

Will the relay still delay the headlights if they've been upgraded to the relay loom?(possible current draw requirement?)


Picture of unit I'm referring too: (photo posted by hornbrod)


There's a connector up under the driver's side dash, and the delay module just plugs in, then is fastened to the lower dash with a screw. All MJs are wired for this feature.


Image Not Found



Wiring Diagram I'm following: (also Hornbrod)





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I"m thinking it has to do with current draw.


I pulled the cover off and there is a 4.7uf capacitor and three transistors.


SO I reconnected it and did a test as follows: switch ignition on, switch light on. let sit for 30 seconds, I then disconnected the ignition and allowed it to sit for almost two minutes, I heard the magnet click, let it sit for another 15 seconds then disconnected light switch wire and it stayed on for about 10 seconds.


So the question still stands. Does the delay module work for those of you who have "upgraded" your headlights to relays?

I was planning to use this on my fan circuit so it would run for 30 seconds after engine is off like my VW does.

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in it's most simplistic form, four wires is all you need.. Battery positive, ground, ignition positive and an outgoing wire that will carry the power to whatever you want headlights, fan, etc. Really killer idea for the timed cooling fan btw.


On mine battery positive was a large red w/ white stripe. Outgoing was a large tan w/ black stripe. Ground, a small solid black and ignition positive I had to re-run completely because I had removed it entirely during one of my "wire consolidation" binges.

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