JTPioneer Posted October 20, 2014 Posted October 20, 2014 So basically went out to my truck one morning, turned the key over , it started than died a few seconds later. Tried again it felt and sounded like no fuel. Put two gallons in. tried again and nothing. Just turning over but trying. Came back the next day to it, started it , ran for a few seconds, than died. Same thing. So had a fuel filter kicking around. Put that on no difference. Checked spark and I have spark. Checked and I'm getting fuel on the rail. Havnt put a pressure gauge on it yet though. Decided to do the tps . Changed it out. Than it started and ran for 10 seconds perfect, but than it went to a real low idle and almost stalled out. Than it jumped to a high idle . It did this cycle about three times than stalled. Tried again back to just starting for 2 seconds. Finally tonight I changed the cps. Still no change. Starting to rip my hair out with this one. Sorry for the long rant. Jason 91 Pioneer 4.0 metric ton automatic 4x4 78,000
HOrnbrod Posted October 21, 2014 Posted October 21, 2014 Check the fuel pump ground wire behind the left tail lamp. Clean up and tighten. Then get a gauge set and check pressure at the fuel rail.
gogmorgo Posted October 21, 2014 Posted October 21, 2014 Have you checked for codes? Sorry, can't do the link on my phone, but the thread's pinned in the diy forum.
HOrnbrod Posted October 21, 2014 Posted October 21, 2014 ^^ Yep, for sure do that. http://comancheclub.com/topic/28111-reading-obdi-91-and-92-mj-fault-codes/
JTPioneer Posted October 21, 2014 Author Posted October 21, 2014 ^^ Yep, for sure do that. http://comancheclub.com/topic/28111-reading-obdi-91-and-92-mj-fault-codes/
JTPioneer Posted October 21, 2014 Author Posted October 21, 2014 Great! I had no idea this could be done. Thanks for the advice. I will give this a shot after work.
JTPioneer Posted October 21, 2014 Author Posted October 21, 2014 So checked the codes. Here's what I got 35 Cooling fan relay. Check relay and circuit. checked fuse box and relay isn't even there 33 Air conditioning clutch relay. Wiring to A/C clutch fault. truck doesn't even have ac 12 Battery disconnected. Battery or power to the ECM disconnected in the last 50 key cycles. I left the fuel pressure guage at work so ill get to that tomorrow. Hopefully won't be raining and I can check some grounds as well
gogmorgo Posted October 22, 2014 Posted October 22, 2014 The code 33 was likely the last one, yes? I've read that in a non-a/c Jeep it can be the end-of-codes code. My MJ has a/c, and I get a 55 code as end of codes. You didn't get a 55 so I'm assuming that's what's happening with that one. I doubt the cooling fan relay issue is your problem, unless you overheated and blew your head gasket or something... Wouldn't hurt to check for cross-contamination of fluids (oil+coolant) or check compression. The code 12 seems to be something my truck threw out whenever there were codes to throw. While yes, my battery cables were/are pretty $#!&ty, it only ever gave the code 12 when other codes were present or if I had just had the battery disconnected for one reason or another. Check fuel pressure as well anyhow. Jeep Driver's MAP sensor theory could also be something to look for. I would have expected a code for that, but your motor may not be running long enough for it to actually throw one. If you've got a buddy with a decent running XJ, you could always swap the map sensors to see what happens. This is completely unrelated to your issues, but your set of codes is exactly what I got from my Lada today and forgot to look up. I'll go do that. Hope you find your problem!
JTPioneer Posted October 22, 2014 Author Posted October 22, 2014 Sorry I forgot to mention I did get 55 to end it. No it definitely didn't overheat. Plan on checking pressure tomorrow. Any idea what pressure should be?
gogmorgo Posted October 22, 2014 Posted October 22, 2014 It's been quoted on here, but I don't trust my memory of them, so I won't post them to avoid confusion. But I will go look them up and post if you don't find them first. There's one pressure with the engine running, and one with the engine running and the fuel pressure regulator's vacuum line unplugged. Don't know if you'll be able to get a good reading if you can't really keep the engine running. I would assume the one with the vacuum unplugged would be the same weather or not the engine was running, though.
gogmorgo Posted October 22, 2014 Posted October 22, 2014 32 psi at idle 39 at WOT or with vacuum line disconnected from fuel pressure regulator. I'd assume this is the same as with the engine not running. Found at a couple different sources, and more or less in line with my memory.
JTPioneer Posted October 22, 2014 Author Posted October 22, 2014 Yes that is what I just determined. Thanks for confirming for me. Never have had to use a fuel pressure guage before. First for everything I guess. Thanks again
gogmorgo Posted October 22, 2014 Posted October 22, 2014 It's not tricky at all. Just don't try to connect or disconnect it while the fuel pump's running... because flammable liquids under pressure...
JTPioneer Posted October 23, 2014 Author Posted October 23, 2014 Only 11 psi. I believe I found the culprit
ggcnash Posted October 24, 2014 Posted October 24, 2014 Only 11 psi. I believe I found the culpritGreat time to do Hornbrod's fuel pressure gauge upgrade! I suggest this to everyone with a mj, xj
ggcnash Posted October 24, 2014 Posted October 24, 2014 http://comancheclub.com/index.php?/topic/12565-Permanent-Fuel-Rail-Pressure-Gauge Srry
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