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2WD AW4 to 4WD AW4 swap


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Before you start spray everything down with PB Blaster or a good penetrating oil ( not WD40) several times for several days first.

 

Well...the front is simple. Bolt off and on: brake hoses to the caliper, track bar, drag link, shocks, and the four control arms. That is pretty much it. The front coils will come out as you lower the beam axle. If you are swapping coils to the live axle they have 1 retainer & bolt on the axle side of each of them. Re-connect those same parts ( + plus a drive shaft) upon re-assembly. 

 

While you have the things apart inspect all of the front suspension and steering pieces you will be re-using. Pay special attention to the tie rod end on the body side mount for the track bar. The hole in the mount tends to wobble out and that is a common cause of death wobble.

 

Remember to get the correct front shaft off of the donor vehicle for the engine/tranny/t-case combo you are using. Then it will bolt-in and be the correct length. Any XJ shaft with the engine/tranny/t-case combo you are using will work.

 

Top two bell housing bolts on the tranny are these inverted torx things that are kind of a pain without the right tools. Support the tranny.  Remove the shifter linkage and cooler hoses. Disconnect the electronics connections. Unbolt the bellhousing bolts & the flex plate to torque convertor bolts.The 4x4 tranny will re-attach in the same way even with the t-case attached. Depending on the year of the donor the electronics will be plug-n-play. You re-use the same cross member and tranny mounts.You will re-use the same tranny shifter linkage. If you want to add extended breather tubes to the tranny & t-case now is the time.

 

Stop right here and get this: http://www.boostwerksengineering.com/231-HD-Shift-Linkage-Auto-Trans-_p_25.html to use as your t-case shifter. Piecing together a factory t-case shifter linkage is a pain even if all of the donor parts are "supposed" to be right. The tunnel mount for the factory set-up is especially a pain. Living in the rust belt just adds to this. I could not buy the parts to fab this locally this cheap and the function of this linkage is 100% better than stock. The stock shifters leave a lot to be desired, anyway. You still need to source the in-the-cab portion of the shifter, of course. The hole for this shifter is under the carpet and covered by a plate so you will not need to cut the floor. Unbolt the plate & bolt-in the shifter. 

 

Unless you can score a factory rear drive shaft from an MJ with the same wheel base, engine/tranny/t-case, and rear axle combo that you are swapping to (not an easy proposition) you have to shorten your factory rear 2wd drive shaft. The factory 2wd rear shaft is huge. It is basically an inner and outer shaft with a rubber sleeve between the two holding them together. Many shops report difficulty re-balancing them after shortening them. I went to the junkyard and for a few bucks bought a suitable donor with the correct u-joint ends. It made things easier and probably cheaper for me. The smaller diameter of the donor means less chance of hitting the shaft on obstacles off-road if that is a concern for you. The correct length of drive shaft that you will need for a stock-ish height MJ is pinned in one of the forums on here.

 

Good luck.  :thumbsup:

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Actually he was on point.  :thumbsup: I think it's just common sense to just get a 4wd aw4 instead of taking apart the 2wd aw4 transmission.  :laughin: Thanks for the help I appreciate it!  :bowdown: I couldn't find a forum on here with sufficient information. Now to find parts  :rotfl2:

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