Brake upgrade now complete...but.........

[Jeep Driver]

My brake peddle is now even with my gas peddle and me no likey.

 

 

Is the only solution to remove booster and cut rod and weld on stub off the old booster to gain length?

 

Any of you experience this?

 

Thanks

[onlyinajeep726]

Easier and safer solution is to unbolt booster and put a quarter inch spacer between it and the firewall, or stack washers.  That's what I did when I did the WJ booster swap.  What year and model did you pull your booster from?

[Jeep Driver]

No, I need something like this.

 

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/631310/10002/-1?parentProductId=

[cruiser54]

Which booster did you use? 

 

95 to 96 works fine if you use it's spacer. Pedal height is stock.

 

WJ works fine with stock pedal height but you have to massage the firewall lip a bit. 

 

WJ has become my preferred conversion. Flexible lines out of the master and you don't have to move the washer reservoir. 

[onlyinajeep726]

Which booster did you use? 

 

95 to 96 works fine if you use it's spacer. Pedal height is stock.

 

WJ works fine with stock pedal height but you have to massage the firewall lip a bit. 

 

WJ has become my preferred conversion. Flexible lines out of the master and you don't have to move the washer reservoir.

I know the question was directed at the OP, but I've done swaps using both.  The XJ got the '96 booster with spacer and the MJ got the WJ booster with a few stacked washers to space it out a bit from the firewall.  Both required the firewall lip to be "worked" on a bit lol.

 

I'm curious to know what year/model booster he used as well.

[HOrnbrod]

I'm curious to know what year/model booster he used as well.

97 ZJ

[Jeep Driver]

Solved.

 

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The braided lines are off a 2000 Intrepid.

In retrospect I would have simply paid the $30 and had new all braided lines made at the hydraulic shop. The distribution block is to the side and kind of behind the booster, makes it nearly impossible to get a good wrench on the fittings. I would have installed the lines to the bock first then to the MC after it was installed. I had a leak on the front sector because I could not get it tight enough, booster had to come back out today anyway.

 

There were two '97s and a 96 and a 98 at the PnP yesterday, there was also a 2000 but the booster was gone. All of them had the exact same part number, I chose the 97 because it was the cleanest and the master was off the 2000.

 

The '88 booster measurement from the back of the booster to the center of the eye is 5", I cut both rods and welded the old to the new at 5 1/4" to compensate for the spacer.

Peddle is back to normal now.

 

 

Also, makes the stock brake light switch a no-brainer.....should have done this to start with.

[cruiser54]

All the more reason to go with WJ.

[onlyinajeep726]

I just hope that weld holds good for the remainder of your MJ's days... Would be very bad if that were to break when you brake. :(

 

The '97+ boosters themselves are the same, but IIRC, the rods are of different lengths than the '95/'96 booster, which is why the earlier model ones are preferred.  I lucked out when I got mine.  There were 6 different '96 XJs when I went.  The MC I have came from a '98.