oldseddie Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 I have come up with a new way of doing an adjustable fuel pressure regulator on a Renix fuel rail. I was looking through a Summit Catalog and saw something that looked like it should fit the Renix rail and with some modification of the rail fitting and fabrication of a mounting bracket I have been running this for several months. hthttp://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/w669/oldseddie/20140320_172932_zpsqtco3oqh.jpgtp://s1335.photobucket.com/user/oldseddie/media/20140320_172932_zpsqtco3oqh.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldseddie Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 I am new at posting pictures so bare with me as I attempt to shows a few more shots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 This would be a great DIY write up showing how you made the mounting bracket, how it mated, connected, attached to the fuel rail. Got a link from the catalog? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue XJ Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Got a part number for it? I ended up buying the one from Hesco. It wasn't cheap but it dropped right in and worked perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldseddie Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 I'll try to do a write up with part numbers but we are going to Charleston next week for some fishing. It took cutting down the rail fitting and fabricating a mount. The first mount was 16 ga aluminum but I am making a stronger one out of stainless. The Aeromotive FPR was around $120 and the rail fitting was around $20. I upgraded my return line to -an braided flex but I think the original hard line can be made to work. I intend to adapt the rail to a 99+ intake for my stroker as the late model rails have hot soak fuel issues. The Renix rail flows fuel through it and this cools it down. It cost me more to do this than Hesco's but it is of much higher quality and adds 50 HP in bling factor alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grayguy Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Bumping this back up looking for more information or a part # for the regulator. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earl*t Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 Try Summit, AEI-13129, EFI Bypass Regulator, $125.97. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxyjeep Posted August 28, 2022 Share Posted August 28, 2022 Hate to revive an old thread, but what fitting did you use to go from -6 AN to the fuel rail? Thinking of going this route on my stroker since Hesco stopped making AFPR’s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gojira94 Posted August 28, 2022 Share Posted August 28, 2022 The donor motor for my MJ project came with an aftermarket aluminum rail ("Fasster" brand). Hadn't been used yet, and I looked at it... the end caps come off and almost any Aeromotive or clone will be ORB 6 on the regulator side to ORB 8 on the rail side (for that aftermarket rail). That rail as it comes is meant for a returnless system, so it has a single 5/16" quick disconnect. I cut that off and welded it shut, leaving just the ends and the included Schrader port. On the front side I added an ORB 6 to ORB 8 swivel fitting and an Aeromotive 13107 for LT1 on it (which does 35-80psi and is vac. ref.). I pulled off the bits the regulator came with and added an ORB 6 to 5/16" barbed fitting for the return with EFI clamp. Feed side is an ORB 8 to 3/8" barb. The idea was to use stuff I had and spend < $30, so braided hose and AN fittings were beyond what I wanted to do. But I do applaud the setup above, nicely done. My go-to VRFPR is the Aeromotive 13301, does vacuum and boost reference 1:1 so is ideal for NA or boosted applications and comes with 2 springs; 3-20#, 20-65#. But Aeromotive stuff has gotten hella expensive lately, so I'll swap the LT1 regulator out at some point for the 13301, given the right opportunity. The factory rail kind of binds you to a really narrow range of options. I'll add a pic when I get a chance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxyjeep Posted August 28, 2022 Share Posted August 28, 2022 2 hours ago, Gojira94 said: The donor motor for my MJ project came with an aftermarket aluminum rail ("Fasster" brand). Hadn't been used yet, and I looked at it... the end caps come off and almost any Aeromotive or clone will be ORB 6 on the regulator side to ORB 8 on the rail side (for that aftermarket rail). That rail as it comes is meant for a returnless system, so it has a single 5/16" quick disconnect. I cut that off and welded it shut, leaving just the ends and the included Schrader port. On the front side I added an ORB 6 to ORB 8 swivel fitting and an Aeromotive 13107 for LT1 on it (which does 35-80psi and is vac. ref.). I pulled off the bits the regulator came with and added an ORB 6 to 5/16" barbed fitting for the return with EFI clamp. Feed side is an ORB 8 to 3/8" barb. The idea was to use stuff I had and spend < $30, so braided hose and AN fittings were beyond what I wanted to do. But I do applaud the setup above, nicely done. My go-to VRFPR is the Aeromotive 13301, does vacuum and boost reference 1:1 so is ideal for NA or boosted applications and comes with 2 springs; 3-20#, 20-65#. But Aeromotive stuff has gotten hella expensive lately, so I'll swap the LT1 regulator out at some point for the 13301, given the right opportunity. The factory rail kind of binds you to a really narrow range of options. I'll add a pic when I get a chance. Unfortunately, I need to pass CA smog so any aftermarket rails are likely going to illicit suspicion. Even if I am able to leverage the setup that OP posted, it may get flagged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gojira94 Posted August 29, 2022 Share Posted August 29, 2022 Oh man, I didn't notice you're in CA. Yeah, pretty much all Aeromotive products carry this line in their instructions: "Aeromotive system components are not legal for sale or use on emission controlled motor vehicles." So not even 48-state compliant... Maybe you best bet is to use a stealth adjustable regulator that looks factory and verify the pressure 39psi KOEO and 31-32 at idle with a test gauge. Fancy as it may look, that's all I'm trying to do, really. Verify my old Renix ECM is being given the fuel it expects with the rudimentary injector characterization it understands for accurate fueling/ best economy/ performance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxyjeep Posted August 29, 2022 Share Posted August 29, 2022 14 hours ago, Gojira94 said: Oh man, I didn't notice you're in CA. Yeah, pretty much all Aeromotive products carry this line in their instructions: "Aeromotive system components are not legal for sale or use on emission controlled motor vehicles." So not even 48-state compliant... Maybe you best bet is to use a stealth adjustable regulator that looks factory and verify the pressure 39psi KOEO and 31-32 at idle with a test gauge. Fancy as it may look, that's all I'm trying to do, really. Verify my old Renix ECM is being given the fuel it expects with the rudimentary injector characterization it understands for accurate fueling/ best economy/ performance. I've built the adjustable MAP sensor (and cranked it to 6 volts) and am currently trying to get 20 lb/hr Bosch injectors (P/N 0-280-155-909) to work for me. If that doesn't fly, I may try the set of 23 lb/hr injectors that I also have (P/N 0-280-155-703) with the MAP voltage decreased. If neither of those options work, I may end up splurging for Accel 21 lb/hr injectors (P/N 150121). I just hate playing "part swap roulette" when there is a simple solution for this (an AFPR) but I need to be covert to pass CA smog... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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