On The Subject Of Wj Control Arms

[Jeep Driver]

A couple of weeks ago I decided to get a pair of arms from the PnP, 2000 WJ. They looked good, but not so much.

 

After spending time and money to get my steering and suspension tight, I was really disappointed in the WJ arms. The lock-to-lock was wonderful but on the road I had a great deal of wallow in the steering and a new 'knock' or rattle that I did not have before. After two days I removed them and reinstalled the newer original arms, steering was back to tight again.

What I discovered after removing the WJ arms was the front bushings were so worn that the arm was riding the axle tube, I also believe this movement is what gave me the 'wallow' feeling in the steering from the back and forth movement, also the source of the knock.

 

I was able to return the arms to the PnP and get a credit of $48, little expensive for used arms.

 

 

Now I was left with question of what to do, I could no longer live with the rubbing of the 31s but did not want to spend $230-$380 for after market arms, only to be disappointed there too with ride quality or bushing wear every couple  of years.

 

After looking around I decided to go with NAPA brand arms, I had used a couple of their bushings in the UCAs to replace the POS Moogs that I had installed a couple of years ago and the NAPA appears to be much better quality.

 

NAPA was $136 with tax for both arms.

 

Old PnP arms, I measured the original bushing width and trimmed.

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I'm not the best welder.....my uncled always told me...."It ain't always got to be purdy, it's just gotta stick".

But I wanted to open up the mounts, so I trimmed the bottom of the shock mount and cut the corners of the LCA mount and welded it back up.

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Old arms

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New arms.

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Trimmed a little less this time.

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I also trimmed about 1/4" off the front of the arm to make certain there would be no contact with the axle tube.

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Moral of the story- buy new when it comes to control arm replacement.

 

Very nice and tight and quiet ride now, I do recommend the NAPA arms.

[ftpiercecracker1]

Nicely done, I too just recently installed WJ arms. Mine came from a JY as well, but i can't really tell much of a difference. For good or for bad. I know my original control arms needed replacing and i was rubbing. The only benefit i can attest to now is that my tires no longer rub, as you have experienced for yourself. At some point i will order up some new WJ arms, but for now these will have to do.

 

Regardless, i still think they are a very worthy mod that all MJ owners should look into.

 

 

FPC.

[Minuit]

I plan on swapping in WJ LCAs at some point so this definitely helped me. Thanks for the info.

[Blue88Comanche]

I mostly did this mod to keep my tires from rubbing the LCAs.

 

was anyone going to do the UCA swap as well?  I plan do do it in the future when i get around to replacing the axle side UCA bushings.

[Lee21490]

I mostly did this mod to keep my tires from rubbing the LCAs.

 

was anyone going to do the UCA swap as well?  I plan do do it in the future when i get around to replacing the axle side UCA bushings.

I did both upper & lower wj's in my lift.

 

Stock CA mounts you have to cut off a little tab, Or the uppers will bind a little.

 

But with my CA drop brackets, It was just straight bolt up

 

Also did my UCA axle bushing, That was a PITA

[teamsmith]

A couple of weeks ago I decided to get a pair of arms from the PnP, 2000 WJ. They looked good, but not so much.

 

After spending time and money to get my steering and suspension tight, I was really disappointed in the WJ arms. The lock-to-lock was wonderful but on the road I had a great deal of wallow in the steering and a new 'knock' or rattle that I did not have before. After two days I removed them and reinstalled the newer original arms, steering was back to tight again.

What I discovered after removing the WJ arms was the front bushings were so worn that the arm was riding the axle tube, I also believe this movement is what gave me the 'wallow' feeling in the steering from the back and forth movement, also the source of the knock.

 

I was able to return the arms to the PnP and get a credit of $48, little expensive for used arms.

 

 

Now I was left with question of what to do, I could no longer live with the rubbing of the 31s but did not want to spend $230-$380 for after market arms, only to be disappointed there too with ride quality or bushing wear every couple  of years.

 

After looking around I decided to go with NAPA brand arms, I had used a couple of their bushings in the UCAs to replace the POS Moogs that I had installed a couple of years ago and the NAPA appears to be much better quality.

 

NAPA was $136 with tax for both arms.

 

Old PnP arms, I measured the original bushing width and trimmed.

Image Not Found

 

Image Not Found

 

 

I'm not the best welder.....my uncled always told me...."It ain't always got to be purdy, it's just gotta stick".

But I wanted to open up the mounts, so I trimmed the bottom of the shock mount and cut the corners of the LCA mount and welded it back up.

Image Not Found

 

 

Old arms

Image Not Found

 

 

New arms.

Image Not Found

 

 

Trimmed a little less this time.

Image Not Found

 

 

I also trimmed about 1/4" off the front of the arm to make certain there would be no contact with the axle tube.

Image Not Found

 

 

Moral of the story- buy new when it comes to control arm replacement.

 

Very nice and tight and quiet ride now, I do recommend the NAPA arms.

 

Hey,

Any chance you still have the pictures for this write up tucked away somewhere? I'm installing WJ LCA's this weekend for about a 2" lift. Will I need to trip the LCA brackets or the bushings within the LCA's? 

 

Thanks!

[Minuit]

Trim the bushings within the LCAs. You will probably also need to trim a small portion of the axle's LCA mounts to allow for full flex - I didn't show that in my writeup as I didn't feel it was necessary for my truck's purpose. (its stock height and thick sway bar limit flex already)

 

Writeup from my build: http://comancheclub.com/topic/38742-driveway-ornament-to-daily-driver-1991-sportruck/page-4

Post 76.

 

I pushed the axle forward not because the WJ LCAs are longer (they aren't - they are exactly the same length eye to eye) but because my stock LCA bushings were so worn the caster angle was almost nonexistent. Even before being aligned it drove MUCH better.

[teamsmith]

Trim the bushings within the LCAs. You will probably also need to trim a small portion of the axle's LCA mounts to allow for full flex - I didn't show that in my writeup as I didn't feel it was necessary for my truck's purpose. (its stock height and thick sway bar limit flex already)

 

Writeup from my build: http://comancheclub.com/topic/38742-driveway-ornament-to-daily-driver-1991-sportruck/page-4

Post 76.

 

I pushed the axle forward not because the WJ LCAs are longer (they aren't - they are exactly the same length eye to eye) but because my stock LCA bushings were so worn the caster angle was almost nonexistent. Even before being aligned it drove MUCH better.

Thanks for the link. I only went through about 8 cut off wheels for the passenger side bushings. I still have the driver side to do but I'm trying to put new springs (2" lift) and shocks all in one go. I see that you're in Cookeville. If you ever come off the plateau and head this way, shoot me a message. 

[Jeep Driver]