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Can't Start Engine(Clicks Once)


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cleaned everything, and I couldn't get anyone here to help with spark plugs. I think I am not getting any fuel, and I don't know how much gas is in the tank, I added maybe 2 or 3 quarts I had left. I inspected as many wires as I could, found 2 burnt out ones near the Master cylinder. on the left near the radiator resoviour is one more smaller burnt cable. None are/were attached to anything.

There was a cable spliced from the electric fan to the headlight wires I removed and now when I crank the engine the fan doesnt turn on at first anymore as a direct result of removing the cable.

I am pretty stumped at this point

all the lights work and stay on, other then the turn signal which was one when I first turned the key forward but never came back.

the mp3 someone added kept turning off and on and was very loose so I removed it completely.

 

 

on the interior there are numerous loose cables above the pedals, fuses missing out of abs slots. I counted 7 cables not plugged into anything.

 

still plan on checking the spark on the plugs to determine wether a new CPS is needed, I priced them around 60 bucks here.

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Did you check for spark ? I wouldn't go throw parts at it yet you might be replacing parts that don't need changing . The filter is something that should be changed regularly so I'd changethat but check spark first

Well I did a little digging, and come to find out if you CPS goes bad it will shut power off the fuel pump and spark plugs. I took the air hose off the throttlebody, spray starter in it and cranked the engine and it ran. So I think its the CPS and for less than 40bucks for a new one, I'll take the chance and hope its as easy as that. I will post back how it worked.

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No if the CPS does not work you won't get spark therefore it's working . You wanna be carful about how much starting fluid you use also . My edjucated guess would be a fuel pump then

Before I buy anything I'm going to try a fix and bypass the fuel pump ballast resistor and see if its something that simple.

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How I check for spark when I'm alone with no timing light:

 

 

-Turn the key to the "on" position.

-Go under hood, unplug either the center button wire on the distributor or unplug one of the spark plug wires at the spark plug,

-Put a screwdriver with a decently insulated handle into the boot of the wire you just pulled and hold the shaft against but not quite touching something very well grounded (metal valve covers work well).

-Take another screwdriver you don't much care about, preferably really big with a very well insulated handle, and use it to short the starter solenoid. The solenoid will be mounted to the starter. You want to connect the terminal with the little wire to the terminal with the big wire that is furthest from the engine block. This will power the starter and crank the engine over and can catch you by surprise, so you likely want to practice this a couple times before actually checking for spark. Try to hit the little terminal first and the big one as firmly as possible, or you'll shower sparks everywhere and start welding the screwdriver to the terminal.

-While the engine is cranking over, watch to see if there's a spark jumping between the shaft of the screwdriver in the wire boot to whatever ground.

 

 

As a bit of a disclaimer, this can be very dangerous so try at your own risk. Of course watch out for moving parts you could get caught in, and try not to touch anything other than the well insulated screwdriver handles... the screwdriver in your left hand will have very high current through it, and the one in your right hand will have very high voltage.

 

 

Also something worth looking into, I've read in a few places that the Haynes Manual doesn't quite have the firing order right. Not so much that it's wrong, but that it's off by one on the distributor, and it may just be a case of the manual being unclear.

Either way, this is what the Haynes manual says:

38397d1298236220t-distributor-cap-rotor-

30377d1290360917t-spark-plug-wires-jeep-

And this is what most people have found is accurate. The difference is the location of the cap's hold-down screws relative to the #1 terminal.

Backfiring through the intake, if you diagnosed that correctly, could easily be caused by the spark plugs firing while the intake valves are still open. And that would be the case if ignition was advanced 60°, as it would be if the Haynes manual does truly have it wrong.

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