Rockfrog Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 On that note anyone wanna guess what rookie mistake I gone done and made? Let's just say it was a doozy. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 Not a doozy; but maybe a dizzy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 Nope, but close and just as dumb. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 Wires crossed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 Even more disastrous ... which way does the motor spin? Which way does the dizzy turn? The first fire vid shows you what the 4.0 sounds like with the wire order reversed .... when I realized what I had done .... I just lowered my head in shame and laughed. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 I've done the first two, more than once, but not that one. Amazing it even ran. Did you get #1 right? :yes: Sheite happens... And it's good to laugh about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 Yeah #1 the counter clockwise from there. I blame it on the PO's backwards labeling on the original valve cover (he numbered #6 as #1 at the firewall). That's my story, sticking to it. Runs great now though. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G00SE Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 So, I'm sure I've overlooked it but in your initial post you said you changed the oil filter nipple to use a different oil filter? Care to tell me how and what you did to change this because the last time I changed my oil I almost didn't find an oil filter to fit my 89 4.0liter.... Thanks G00SE Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted July 6, 2017 Author Share Posted July 6, 2017 Either pull one from a JY YJ or TJ motor, pull one from a later HO block, or purchase one from Mopar or online. The Metric thread Oil filter adapter unscrews from the OFA body and can be changed out for the more common 3/4-16 adapter thread nipple. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 https://emeraldgreen97.wordpress.com/2012/08/02/run-ho-and-oversize-filters-on-your-renix/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted July 8, 2017 Author Share Posted July 8, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted July 8, 2017 Author Share Posted July 8, 2017 Oh, and I pulled the 4.0L throttle body, cleaned the 2.5L throttle body and assembled all the required bits. So it's back on the motor again now that we all know it had nothing to do with the initial starting issue. Derr ... Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G00SE Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 https://emeraldgreen97.wordpress.com/2012/08/02/run-ho-and-oversize-filters-on-your-renix/ Thank You HOrnbrod... Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 Well, time to figure things out again. No brake lights and no blower function. Blower was down before the work started, have a new resistor and will go from there. Not worried about that one until early October. Big concern is the brake lights. Need those. I get continuity through the switch, but no lights. Worked before the booster swap. Hopefully a short week at work (10hr days so may have Friday off), so I can get cracking. In other news, I tested the clutch, I have movement, that was a big concern I can lay to rest now. Stripped a bleeder on the 8.8 (driver rear) so need to sort that out one day. But brakes work. Got a lazy IAC, but otherwise the 2.5L TB is working fine. Time to sort the suspension now. Just stock arms in there now but fixed lowers and adjustable uppers are on the way. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 Oh, and I must be getting good at TPS' .... Checked voltages and 4.8V input, .82V output ... No adjustment needed. Score. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted July 30, 2017 Author Share Posted July 30, 2017 Well, the brake switch works, as do the brake lights ... I have to can't the switch slightly up or down for it to function though ... Did I grind too much off the booster push rod, or not enough? Well, I'll just make a small bracket to hold the switch at an angle until I find a better way. Thinking about finding an HO brake pedal assembly and using the later style switch. Blower motor is another issue ... Motor works, resistor is fine, looks like I get to pull the dash panels off again ... I'm guessing it's the brown wire on the switch itself. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted August 22, 2017 Author Share Posted August 22, 2017 Blower motor works again, turned out the fuse was blown, but wasn't. Weird, was heated and corroded and passed no voltage but hasn't actually blown. So, technically everything works again. Started working on the speaker box for behind the seats. Will be using 4dr XJ Laredo seats this time. So I figured use the space before I start tossing crap back into Limbo. Should help me keep the old girl clean. Made it so the speaker faces are modular and easy to replace ... Just used what I had for speakers for now, I'm no audiophile, but I do like my road tunes. Just have to figure out where to mount the Amp now. Theft is not a concern, unless they take the whole truck the box isn't going anywhere. I made sure of that. Used canopy tape to hopefully reduce body vibes some. Replaced the torn lower shifter boot with one from a mustang. Reworked the console mount a teeny bit. Had to order new upper B-pillar trim since mine were hose by the PO's hack-tastic speaker installs. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 I am really digging that speaker box. Makes me want to do something similar. I would like to have mine behind the seats as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted October 11, 2017 Author Share Posted October 11, 2017 So let's see .... New B-pillar trim, painted charcoal grey. All trim above the lower doorsill trim was painted charcoal grey, below was rocker guard black. The center console got rocker guarded and all other additional adding were painted charcoal grey. Made my grey Laredo seats and got them installed. Wired in the amps, switched the two 5.25" speakers for a single 6.5" sub and a dedicated mini amp. Put the front suspension together and torqued it all up. Got three days of driving before the original "get me moving" fix on the hydraulic slave line came apart. Ironically just before I picked up the part meant to eliminate the issue. Like a block away (was on the way to pick up my fittings from Novak). The Novak fitting will allow me to use a stick Renix replacement line when I get around to it. Swapped back to a 4.0L (58mm) throttle body and rewired to used the 96+ MAP sensor ... Prior I had a hesitation off idle I think was likely due to a failing MAP sensor, but I wasn't getting any noticeable improvement (mpg) by running the more stock size 52mm 2.5L throttle body ... So, two birds one stone. Pictures are in no particular order ... Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted October 11, 2017 Author Share Posted October 11, 2017 Oh, and let's not forget the "I'm back on the road" shot. Paints going to need some work and my rear window is leaking along the top edge. Going to have to have the rear window re-installed, properly this time. For now duct tape is keeping me dry. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 14 hours ago, Rockfrog said: Swapped back to a 4.0L (58mm) throttle body and rewired to used the 96+ MAP sensor ... Prior I had a hesitation off idle I think was likely due to a failing MAP sensor, but I wasn't getting any noticeable improvement (mpg) by running the more stock size 52mm 2.5L throttle body ... So, two birds one stone. 96 or 96+ MAP? The 96 throttle body mounted MAP (p/n 56028303) is a unique one-year part in that it's outputs are nearly identical to the Renix and OBD1 MJ firewall mounted MAPs. The 97 and up MAP outputs are pure OBD2 and much different. EDIT: I expanded your pic of the MAP sensor and it looks like a 97 and up p/n, 56029405. I'm surprised it even plays with the Renix system. I'll have to dig up the MAP sensor output tables again and compare.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted October 11, 2017 Author Share Posted October 11, 2017 96 or 96+ MAP? The 96 throttle body mounted MAP (p/n 56028303) is a unique one-year part in that it's outputs are nearly identical to the Renix and OBD1 MJ firewall mounted MAPs. The 97 and up MAP outputs are pure OBD2 and much different. EDIT: I expanded your pic of the MAP sensor and it looks like a 97 and up p/n, 56029405. I'm surprised it even plays with the Renix system. I'll have to dig up the MAP sensor output tables again and compare.... Completely got rid of my off idle hesitation. One my REM arrives (v4. 1) I'll have a better idea of how things are meshing.I also modified a pre 96 Throttle body to have a vacuum port at the base, just in case I have to go back. I can simply wire the correct plug and make a bracket off the TB mounts to hang it there. One less long intrusive vacuum line. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted October 11, 2017 Author Share Posted October 11, 2017 96 or 96+ MAP? The 96 throttle body mounted MAP (p/n 56028303) is a unique one-year part in that it's outputs are nearly identical to the Renix and OBD1 MJ firewall mounted MAPs. The 97 and up MAP outputs are pure OBD2 and much different. EDIT: I expanded your pic of the MAP sensor and it looks like a 97 and up p/n, 56029405. I'm surprised it even plays with the Renix system. I'll have to dig up the MAP sensor output tables again and compare.... Looking at the specs, they both do exactly the same thing. Produce a reducing voltage with increasing vacuum. Both start at the approximate 5V reference and reduce accordingly. Seems the specs for the MAP sensor remained the same through production, same as the IAC (with only the late model pin change in 99/00 to cause any issues). One small victory. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 Good to know. Did you happen to run across the specs for the 96 MAP and the 97 and up later ones for comparision purposes? I had them at one time; gone now. Would be nice if I could use the more common 97 and up MAP instead of the unique one-off 96. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted October 11, 2017 Author Share Posted October 11, 2017 Good to know. Did you happen to run across the specs for the 96 MAP and the 97 and up later ones for comparision purposes? I had them at one time; gone now. Would be nice if I could use the more common 97 and up MAP instead of the unique one-off 96. Specs for the 97-03 MAP sensor (probably goes right through to 06 but can't confirm).http:// http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/jeep/4.0L/map-sensor-diagnostic-tests-2.To paraphrase the above page ... With the key On and no vacuum applied to the MAP sensor your multimeter should display: 0 in Hg - 4.8 V (this is no vacuum applied to the MAP sensor).Apply Vacuum. As you apply vacuum, your multimeter should read: 5 in Hg - 3.9V.10 in Hg - 3.1V.15 in Hg - 2.1V.For the pre 97 I've found it has a 5.0v reference (+/- 0.5v) with a standing pass through signal (so reference voltage) with no vacuum applied and reducing voltage to 1.2v at hot idle. Again, all +/- 0.5v, but I suspect if you test with applied vacuum instead of the less constant hot idle method ... The values should line up (assuming a roughly 18 in Hg vacuum at hot idle and the given 0.5v variance).As I mentioned, haven't noticed any bad side effects and it also cured a persistent hesitation that was previously present with the old motor and 4.0L throttle body (so prior to me trying the 2.5L throttle body which makes the 2.5L a viable experiment again that I might try later). Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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