DirtyComanche Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 If my hood/fenders were both 4" shorter? And the header panel/grille moved back 4"? Er. And if I shark nose (dove tail) it so that the headlights are within my inner track width? Too bad I have no photoshop skills. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 go for it! let us know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted April 20, 2007 Author Share Posted April 20, 2007 It's not that easy. I won't do it with this drivetran. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 haha, worried about your engine sticking out the front? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted April 20, 2007 Author Share Posted April 20, 2007 No, it would fit. The rad won't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 lmao! mount the rad. in the back of your exo w/ pusher fans. 25 feet of hose outta do it. shoot...when we did that it was with mid or rear-engine sandrails... uh...no clue how you're gonna do that man, you need something more in a V for that :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted April 20, 2007 Author Share Posted April 20, 2007 I've already considered all rear mounted rad options. It is feasable (buddy even offered me his hardcore high-pressure steam hose to do it), but not really what I'm trying to do this time. That's only one hurdle. The other is that all the wiring in the front end would have to be redone, or a propane conversion would be needed. I was going to poor-boy convert the engine, but haven't bothered as it has a few issues. Maybe it finially has decided that it's not going to put up with me anymore :nuts: . So, it's time to do things a little different. Just need to hammer out the plan first (not that I know why, I'm just going to throw it out) then collect some more parts. I'm just wondering if asthetically it would look odd. Or bad. Or horrible. But I need the 4". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 why do you need the 4"? and i think it would look fine if you did it correctly. gonna be alot of work though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted April 20, 2007 Author Share Posted April 20, 2007 It's all lots of work... I want a 90* approach. And a 90* departure. And enough room for the cab and about 2-3' of bed. And about a 105-108" WB. I can give up the 4", but it's 4" that will be wasted. Realistically I'd probably try to take more like 6" off the front if I can. I need to figure out my drivetran location (and for that matter, the drivetran...). And I want it to weigh LESS than the current truck (scaled at 4200 with me and BASIC gear). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted April 20, 2007 Author Share Posted April 20, 2007 And the other debate is 6" or 12" out of the centre... As in, narrower. I forsee a glass issue with that (I need it to stay 'legal' :roll: ). And a little issue with that I know it's going to be all warped to hell after I cut it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86FUBAR Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 lengthen the front control arms a bit and put bigger tires on it till u get ur 90 , i like that idea :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted April 20, 2007 Author Share Posted April 20, 2007 Well, it's got leaf springs now, so those gotta go too. And then I'll have to figure out how to fit a panhard 3-link.. Also, I need a reverse steering box from the looks of things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 Dirty, you wanna lay out this project for us? i'm having a hard time picturing exactly what you're thinking here... why would you need a reverse steering box unless you were going to RHD? are you making the whole truck narrower? i'm really clueless on this one man... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86FUBAR Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 ya u lost me there to , pleas explain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted April 20, 2007 Author Share Posted April 20, 2007 Dirty, you wanna lay out this project for us? i'm having a hard time picturing exactly what you're thinking here... why would you need a reverse steering box unless you were going to RHD? are you making the whole truck narrower? i'm really clueless on this one man... A reverse steering box points the pitman arm in front of the box instead of behind it. The reason I'd need this is I don't have enough frame to mount the box, use a pitman arm with enough throw, and have the whole mess clear the axle with it that far forewards. As it is, my drag link bottoms out on the tie-rod as they're exactly in line. That's a bad thing. Especially when it means you've only got about 4" up travel on the one side. And the project is to make the MJ small enough to fit the trails it needs to fit. Light enough that my intended (cheap) axles will hold up. Capable enough that I don't get tooo bored. Have a cab so I can stay warm in the winter. Reliable. Theoretically 'street legal'. Oh, and cheap. But I use that word loosely. Basic specs would be... (all in my head. I'm still trying to make it work. This was an asthetics thread...) -37x12.5 MTRs - have -15x9.5" single beadlocks, 3.5" BS - have -105"-107"~ WB. -Panhard 3-link front -Wishbone 3-link or 4-link rear (space depending...) -Coils all around (too cheap for coil-overs) -A frame. See my other 'threats' on this subject. -Full bottom skids -Semi internal/external cage. -A v6. Either a chevy 4.3 or a buick 3.8 -Either a 700R4 or a T18 or such... Leaning towards 700R4 - making the 3.8 not as easy -NP241 w/ 4:1. Or just a NP241. -HP D44 front, waggy width, chromos/yukons, 4.56s, spool. Hydro assist. - have all the parts -Either a HP D44 rear with a detroit, or a isuzu 12B with a LSD and spare welded third. I'd start with the 12B and build the D44 if I saw it as needed. - have the 12B -And I probably want a narrowed body. Which will make the dove-nosing not look so funky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 hmm...i'm excited to see this project. if you go with a 3.8, I can get you the diagrams you need, and tell you which wires do what. I can also direct you to a place to get the VATS bypass module so the antitheft (fuel engage/shutoff) works without the BCM...it's only 30 bucks. the 3.8 is something you can run seperate of your OEM harness, and all you would need to tie into the OEM harness is the tach, coolant temp, and oil pressure wires. everything else can be easily seperated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted April 20, 2007 Author Share Posted April 20, 2007 Good to know, but I won't be running that anyways... I forgot to mention, I'll be running redneck fuel injection... Propane. Got all the parts. Just need an intake. Which I need to look into with the newer buick 3.8 (the 3800...), but I know I can make it worth with the old 3.8 (the 231) but that one is the BOP bellhousing pattern which there isn't a 700R4 that'll bolt to. It's a bit of a conundrum. The 3.8 is a lot lighter/smaller than the 4.3, and the potential power difference is very slight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 If you're planning on dovenosing it, you'd normally have to graft two fenders together to get the length you'd need to reach the header panel, so if you just move it back (like it's that easy), that's one less thing you need to do! Do it. Why not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 Good to know, but I won't be running that anyways... I forgot to mention, I'll be running redneck fuel injection... Propane. Got all the parts. Just need an intake. Which I need to look into with the newer buick 3.8 (the 3800...), but I know I can make it worth with the old 3.8 (the 231) but that one is the BOP bellhousing pattern which there isn't a 700R4 that'll bolt to. It's a bit of a conundrum. The 3.8 is a lot lighter/smaller than the 4.3, and the potential power difference is very slight. And I tell you, the 3.8 kicks the crap outta the 4.0 when in a jeep...i gots experience on that one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 Keep in mind the 700r4 has a mid fluid pump, not the best for off cambers and hill climbs. Do a 4.3 easy enough to do a Pane conversion on them, plus they are cheap an everywhere. Dove tail the front, I am going to make mine just wide enough for the Rad, anythng more then that is a waste of space :eek: For steering just go full hydro, solves all issues with steering box and linkages, plus it is just cool :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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