ggcnash Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 Hi guys gonna just kick my project thread off will be slower than most for $ reasons oh well here goes. Posted awhile back how I came across her, WalMart parking lot not for sale just had to ask turns out he sold it to me. Oh and guys in debt to this forum for what I have got done, and what will be done this is basically my first auto build besides just tinkering so feel free to throw suggestions my way[/url [url= Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bornindesert Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 Depending on what direction you'll be taking, looks like a really solid, straight and clean Comanche to start with. I rocked a red 86/87 2WD 4.0 bench column shift back in the day, my first Comanche. It was pretty fast and sat nicely on 235's Goodyear Wanglers. Nice purchase! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Pioneer Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 That looks like a solid, clean truck, a great starting point. So what are your plans? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted December 26, 2013 Author Share Posted December 26, 2013 My plans are to go 4wd already have 96 xj aw4 with 231 also 99 HP Dana 30 with front driveshaft. Just pulled the carpet no major rust reason here that should be the first thing to do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted December 26, 2013 Author Share Posted December 26, 2013 Sorry about the grammar dam auto correct cellphone! Other plans when $ permits is the hellcreek 3" lift I think this would be a good option because of the full packs for the rear vs. Aal thoughts are welcome would love to know if the tow rating increases or decreases with these? Gonaa try and overhaul this Dana 30 know I need new rotors, hubs, ball joints after that I'm lost should I just buy a master overhaul kit if so which one and links to the process would be appreciated if available Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted December 26, 2013 Author Share Posted December 26, 2013 Definately had to do the gauge swap from idiot lights just finished up the column indicator swap to the new gauges last night also rolled back miles to match my original odometer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bornindesert Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 If the rest of the truck is as rust free as the floors, good find. Under the battery tray is another place to check for corrosion. I re-geared & rebuilt my D30 last year about this time. Went with Timken Unit bearings and rotors/pads from Autozone, MOOG ball-joints and axle seals from Rockauto. SierraGear for the 4.10's and master kit, and some AlloyUSA Cromolly axles. If you don't re-gear, and are keeping the ring and pinion you could just do a pinion seal and get the shim kit & pinion nut (no bearings replaced, no set-up, same shims for pinion preload). Here are a couple of links on dana30's...if you need to set-up on new bearings or gears. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/ http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj7-dana-30-full-rebuilt-setup-part-i-1121189/ Lots of other things you could do to your D30, as I've learned from some of the build threads on here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted December 26, 2013 Author Share Posted December 26, 2013 Yea the tray is even better than the floors very happy fro. a corrosion standpoint. I guess the main problem is oil leaks drove it before I ripped out the interior actually had drops building up on the trans belly pan assuming rear main seal and obviously the valve cover figure it probably needs a head gasket too got a little sweet smell after warm up but really sounds good under the hood thanks for the links I'll get to reading just never really fooled with axles before big learning experience. I'm not gonna regear right now it matches my 3.55 rear would love to go to 4.10 in the future though so just to make sure new rotors and pads, ball joints, hubs new axles is not a necessity just seals right and pinion seal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted December 26, 2013 Author Share Posted December 26, 2013 Thought I would show my wife's late Christmas present arrived today from crutchfields I love her Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bornindesert Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 Nice upgrade on the sound system! So, probably a few ways to go with the axle. Easiest would be to not touch the pinion nut, assuming it's not producing an obvious leak at the pinion seal. You can still drain, pull cover, inspect, pull axles, pop out the carrier, do the ball joints and remove/install the axle seals. Would spring for a Lublocker gasket, knowing you'll be going back in at some point. Replacement bushings are available for the axle end of the upper control arms. They're a pain to beat out and press in, so if they are half way decent leave them alone. Problem you may run into with the axle out of the vehical is cracking the axle nuts, having weight on wheels makes for an easier anti-rotation method to compensate for the brutal torque you'll need to break them free. I used a torch to make life easier, knowing I'd be replacing the stub axles anyway. With new Unit bearings ($200), axle seals, ball joints ($160), rotors and pads ($100 plus) and LubLocker ($30) and fluids you'll already be into the axle for some change. Those are all good maintenance items that won't prevent you from upgrading later on. And yes, If you plan on keeping the stock axles for now, would consider just pressing in some u-joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted December 27, 2013 Author Share Posted December 27, 2013 Thanks a lot that def. Gives me a starting point hopefully I can handle it. Gotta get started on that next week along with the oil leaks. Do you have any opinions on a 3" lift like I said thinking about the hellcreek since it comes with full rear pack instead of AAL like all the others I've seen just wondering what their packs do to ride comfort and towing capacity? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dscowell Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 Could save yourself the time of the axle swap and just put in the one piece axle shaft. But I guess if you already have the axle might as well do the swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted December 27, 2013 Author Share Posted December 27, 2013 Some other parts I've managed to get on my JY adventures MJ buckets with brackets, MJ full console, 97+ power mirrors (dunno if I'll try to wire these in or not) extra pair of taillights and so on still looking for the D44 rearend. Back on topic is there anything else I will need as far as the 4wd conversion goes I know I still have to get t case linkage or fab one got the d30, aw4, 231j, front drive shaft, gonna cut my rear one down (cheapest route) thanks in advance for any help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 What did you pay for it? Nice score....straight and clean is rare......hope you keep it that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted December 27, 2013 Author Share Posted December 27, 2013 1500$ been saving to find one for awhile thought I came out pretty good these trucks are expensive down here. Dscowell thought I had that with the 99 d30, or maybe I'm not understanding? Thanks and please elaborate I'm new to this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted December 27, 2013 Author Share Posted December 27, 2013 Yea I hope I can keep it that way too gonna be my DD/Camping rig had to give up my truck to the wife and new baby her car was toast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 $1500.......you stole it. Yes there are a lot of $700 MJs that are trashed rust buckets. You got an excellent deal here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted December 27, 2013 Author Share Posted December 27, 2013 Yea I knew I done pretty good from all the Craig's list listings down here one in this shape people are asking 3k couldn't swing that so I definetly am happy with the purchase Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bornindesert Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 Thanks a lot that def. Gives me a starting point hopefully I can handle it. Gotta get started on that next week along with the oil leaks. Do you have any opinions on a 3" lift like I said thinking about the hellcreek since it comes with full rear pack instead of AAL like all the others I've seen just wondering what their packs do to ride comfort and towing capacity? I'd consider going with the Hellscreek 3" lift, definitely a good quality option. I'm not an authority on lifts, so would get some other opinions. Here's mine, if you are committed to a 3" lift, then new rear HC springs are a good way to get there. For a DD, even better. I'd match them to a straight up 3" lift front coil lift, no spacers. At 3", you can probably get away with stock arms, pitman, steering linkage and just add a decent adjustable track bar. You'll need new shocks all way around. You'd be in the 31-32" tire range. You'll sacrifice some ride comfort for better articulation, which means everything when you wheel off-road. Towing is more engine, transmission, hitch and brakes, so wouldn't think you'd gain or lose going with a 3" lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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